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| | #1 |
| Admin - Owner Palm & Tree Services in Brisbane Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 12,993
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Pioneered by Bill Hicks an electrical engineer who helped out on reforestation as a hobby. It defies what we have been beaten over the head with, that plants be planted with the same grade. However here tube stock is planted up to 1m deep, the stem stripped off and buried. Survival rates are better and plants do better. Perhaps the success to it is the fact that seedlings are used where the stem can easily adapt to become a root system. ![]() ![]() Here's some links and videos:- Deep (long stem) planting fsytwentyfive Trials of Long-stem Tube Stock Gardening Australia - Fact Sheet: Long-stem Planting Gardening Australia - Fact Sheet: Deep Planting http://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/re...gstemguide.pdf
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| | #2 |
| Moderator - Previously known as JayD Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: TreeWorld, Sydney Australia
Posts: 2,059
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I found this thread very interesting as I have heard about planting tubes stock and larger plants very deep before and I mean years and years ago however after my formal training I wrote the method off, I will be following this thread.
__________________ Member: Australian Tree Association Join the Australian Tree Association...Have your voice heard ! Arboriculture, A life long study for some, a passing phase for others © Jeffrey J Darby 2011 |
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| | #3 |
| Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Mannering Park, Australia
Posts: 623
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I did a workshop on this method, held by the W.S.C Landcare crew, the method works, we saw photographic evidence of the merits of this system and some mighty tube stock. The nursery of W.S.Council did trials using long large poly pipe as pots, it was removed to see how effective the planting technique was. Once removed the findings were that plants that had effective root systems growing out of the whole length of the buried system. Weird, looked weird, but you could see clearly the plant had about double the normal root system Not only was the area that was available for root formation increased, the plants, all natives, had an increase of about 30% growth rate. Trials were done at Lakes Beach on sand dune systems. The moisture availability in sand dune areas was higher for plants, as the root developed in the lower soil stratum, where it was moist. Success rates in areas rehabilitated were increased. I'll see if I can get some pics, from our Landcare coordinator. This method works, and it does your head in, goes against everything we are taught. |
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| | #4 |
| Admin - Owner Palm & Tree Services in Brisbane Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 12,993
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I dare it works on seedlings but if you tried it on say a 300mm potted plant then I think you'd be in trouble. It's similar to striking a cutting in the sense that you are in small dia sapwood which can adapt and has small propensity for decay, the whole stem morphs to roots.
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| | #5 |
| Mature tree Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: ?
Posts: 441
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I am amazed by this. It goes against all I've been tought. But I am open to new techniques. I will follow this thread also.
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| | #6 | |
| Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,557
| Quote:
I expect the saplings would do better in sand and loamy soils that allow easy ingress of water and nutrients. In the second video, Megan King says she is planting in sandy loam, and only plants during the wettest time of the year allowing roots to develop and last thru the hotter seasons, And it appears that the initial root survives, nourishes the top growth with water, and allows roots closer to the surface to develop. Like Eric, I expect this can only be done with saplings up to a small diameter -- when they are still adapting to a changing environment--, after that, i would expect survival rates would drop. In all the examples they showed, all saplings were under 1/2 inch diameter. While it is different to what I was taught, it is also reasonable to believe that people digging up plants to see how the roots grew could have misconstrued what they saw. ie, top roots supporting the leaves, and tap roots growing down for support. Perhaps, the most successful plants/trees start with a deep root to access cool moisture conditions, and then develop more surface roots for more surface water. I expect clay soils would not have the same survival rate since water penetration is much slower.
__________________ My business: Tree Pruning and Removals -- Strump Removals -- Advice -- Consulting -- Arborist Reports Consulting Forester If you want an honest opinion, call Brent Ferris...because, Trees want to Live Too ! We do great jobs, even in small yards. Free Estimates Oakville to Oshawa - North to Bradford (Will travel further if cost of travelling covered) Email -- treeshaveneeds@3web.com Cell 416-460-5704 Last edited by Brent Ferris; 4th August 2011 at 01:18 AM. Reason: more ideas | |
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| | #7 | |
| Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Mannering Park, Australia
Posts: 623
| Quote:
this might be worth looking into. Perhaps a trial . Also inundated soils. Yes, the stem diameter was young growth, and about the dimensions you mention, before the adult bark developed. Have to look up my notes. What I'm interested in is what mechanism or cell development causes them to develop roots along the stems where branches would normally develop. Curious. | |
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| | #8 | |
| Admin - Owner Palm & Tree Services in Brisbane Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 12,993
| Quote:
Trees only grow by expanding, cell division. New cells are undifferentiated, they could turn out to be bark, stem, root etc. Ultimately their purpose is decided by function required and location. Pull a branch down close to the ground and anchor it. Or wrap some peet moss to it, keep it moist and hello, roots start to grow. The secret is simple, new wood is undifferentiated. How Tree Cells Grow| Defying Errera's Law
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| | #9 |
| Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Mannering Park, Australia
Posts: 623
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yes, I know the concept of undifferentiated cells, passed my Botany. Probably didn't explain that question of mine properly. Never mind. LOLGood article, might have a decent read tomorrow. |
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| | #10 |
| Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,557
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Considering the method, you are essentially establishing a taproot the size of the trunk -- one hell of a taproot -- to nourish the top, until fibrous roots and other roots can develop. This was plainly seen in the video when she dug up the lavender. And she only planted during the wettest time of the year, when the subsoil would have water available, and those roots would be protected from heat (and cold) extremes. And the deep roots could keep on absorbing all Spring, and into early to possibly mid summer,except for severe droughts -- not too common in Britain. So here in Canada, we would plant in Spring and perhaps Fall -- and not at all in the summer. I need to review the video, but it sounded like she planted species that usually grow well, vs plants that are a bit iffy for the region. Need to give it a try in different soils with different plants -- just need to find the space and the plants.
__________________ My business: Tree Pruning and Removals -- Strump Removals -- Advice -- Consulting -- Arborist Reports Consulting Forester If you want an honest opinion, call Brent Ferris...because, Trees want to Live Too ! We do great jobs, even in small yards. Free Estimates Oakville to Oshawa - North to Bradford (Will travel further if cost of travelling covered) Email -- treeshaveneeds@3web.com Cell 416-460-5704 |
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