What disease does my tree have?

MichaelTree_2008

About 6 months ago some large branches on my tree started dying. Those branches have no leaves but other branches look OK (for now). The dead branches have something that looks a little like pieces of mushrooms going up the branch. The mushroom like stuff started first just before the branch started dying so I'm guessing it is the cause. The bark over time is coming off the branch piece by piece. The tree is roughly 25 feet tall and more than 30 years old. Also, if you can tell me what type of tree it is I'd appreciate it. .......Michael...San Jose, CA.

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newguy18

Definatly some sort of decay,maybe post several pics of the entire tree.

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old schooler

Eric Frei

It's commen for dead branches to get fungal fruiting bodies, borers etc.

What we need to figure out is why the branch died.

And to do that like NG said above, more pictures.

Just today I did a little trimming on tree, the customer was concerned it was unhealthy and perhaps dying as a decent branch fell off full of borers and decay.

All that happened was a natural shedding as the branch was heavily shaded out by the rest of the growing canopy, so bit of a trim and all is OK, just nature doing it's thing. The tree was healthy too.

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pcarborist

Some kind of polypore fungi. If the tree is a littleleaf linden, it could be Schizophyllum?.

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parkcityarborist

MichaelTree_2008

Thanks guys. I'm adding more pictures as you requested. The tree is dying branch by branch. The first thing I noticed about 6 months ago were the mushroom like things on a big branch, then that branch starting dying. I thought the mushroom like things were the cause but I could be wrong. Either something from the outside is killing the tree or it is something internal that is killing branch by branch. Yesterday I also noticed that if I poke a putty knife into a few knot holes around the tree that there is flakey (probably dead) pieces of wood that come right out of the knot holes. I would like to find out what disease my tree has to see if I can save it. I'm wondering if I cut it way back from 25 ft to 10 ft and cut off every branch that looks dead if that will help any???
My questions are: What disease does it have? What type of tree is it? Can it be saved? Will major cutting help? ... Thanks

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Eric Frei

Great pictures, you're obviously handy with a camera and using the forum software ... need more like you here!

In the vast majority of cases with trees what's above stems from below.

In all your pictures there was only one that just caught the base/ground, the 3rd one down. It didn't look good. I'd like to see more pictures of that. Please remember that a trees root system is it's lifeline for resources, tree roots spread further than the canopy. I feel a lot of the canopy shots are showing symptoms of

1/ wounds/poor pruning
2/ root damage

In the many years of working on trees I find it rather amusing that the primary advice given by 90% of tree companies involves chainsaws, and the roots are near forgotten.

There's no mulch, it look dusty, the trunk flare looks stuffed or something like a dog has been digging it up. So please don the camera and lets get a closer look at the environment under that tree, which is it's nutritional bank.

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Knotahippie

Fruitless Mulberry.

Coriolus bracts for the fungus? Late invader.

Anything else I'd have to look closer. I'd like to see the base of the tree and the dirt too.

Foliage looks good. Decay might be the main problem.

If it was my tree I'd get some wood chips and a prescribed pruning schedule.

Looks to me like it was pollarded about 8 years ago (red lines).

The problem might be that it was done too late in the trees life and maybe the wrong season too.

After defoliation, the tops of all the 30 year old stems that have developed in the shade all those years can sunscald and begin to decay (orange lines).

Could have been cut hard a couple times.

Within a few years decay could become signifigant enough to impede vascular flow and kill branches.

If anything else happens, such as early freeze or the heat wave we had a couple months ago etc...possibly more problems.

The green stuff is harmless lichen.

Those big "knots" are callus, a normal part of the compartmentalization process.

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MichaelTree_2008

Thanks.
As requested I'm attaching more pictures of the base of the tree so you can see the base, the roots, and the ground. The house was built in 1958. I moved in 1985. I can't remember how big the tree was when I moved in but I know it was not small. I have never pruned the tree other than cut low branches that hit me in the head. I have never watered the tree because I never think about watering big already established trees. It gets water in the winter when it rains in California but no water all summer since it doesn't rain here then. In the Leaves picture do they look closed up or shriveled? I took the picture at 9AM. Maybe it just needs water??? I guess this is possible but I stopped watering the backyard about 10 years ago and never noticed any problem with the tree before.

Be nice to me as I tell you one other thing I thought about - - - About 3 years ago I was getting a lot of foxtails growing in my backyard and they would get between the dogs toes and in their fur. They spread like wildfire. Therefore I started spraying grass killer on the backyard each spring (after the rainy season) to kill all the foxtail weeds (you'll notice in the pictures my yard is only dirt - this is why). I didn't think the grass killer would harm the tree because the tree is huge with huge roots deep in the ground. I'm only doing a light spray on the foliage of the weeds around the whole yard (including around the tree). Maybe I underestimated the harm (however the tree roots I can see still look strong to me).

With the new pictures and info. what do you think?
Thanks.

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treeseer

Here is information you need, from a good organization.

Proper Mulching Techniques

Mulches are materials placed over the soil surface to maintain moisture and improve soil conditions. Mulching is one of the most beneficial things a home owner can do for the health of a tree. Mulch can reduce water loss from the soil, minimize weed competition, and improve soil structure. Properly applied, mulch can give landscapes a handsome, well-groomed appearance. Mulch must be applied properly; if it is too deep or if the wrong material is used, it can actually cause significant harm to trees and other landscape plants.

Benefits of Proper Mulching

* Helps maintain soil moisture. Evaporation is reduced, and the need for watering can be minimized.
* Helps control weeds. A 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch will reduce the germination and growth of weeds.
* Mulch serves as nature’s insulating blanket. Mulch keeps soils warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.
* Many types of mulch can improve soil aeration, structure (aggregation of soil particles), and drainage over time.
* Some mulches can improve soil fertility.
* A layer of mulch can inhibit certain plant diseases.
* Mulching around trees helps facilitate maintenance and can reduce the likelihood of damage from “weed whackers” or the dreaded “lawn mower blight.”
* Mulch can give planting beds a uniform, well-cared-for look.

Trees growing in a natural forest environment have their roots anchored in a rich, well-aerated soil full of essential nutrients. The soil is blanketed by leaves and organic materials that replenish nutrients and provide an optimal environment for root growth and mineral uptake. Urban landscapes, however, are typically a much harsher environment with poor soils, little organic matter, and large fluctuations in temperature and moisture. Applying a 2- to 4-inch layer of organic mulch can mimic a more natural environment and improve plant health.

The root system of a tree is not a mirror image of the top. The roots of most trees can extend out a significant distance from the tree trunk. Although the guideline for many maintenance practices is the drip line—the outermost extension of the canopy—the roots can grow many times that distance. In addition, most of the fine, absorbing roots are located within inches of the soil surface. These roots, which are essential for taking up water and minerals, require oxygen to survive. A thin layer of mulch, applied as broadly as practical, can improve the soil structure, oxygen levels, temperature, and moisture availability where these roots grow.

Types of Mulch

Mulches are available commercially in many forms. The two major types of mulch are inorganic and organic. Inorganic mulches include various types of stone, lava rock, pulverized rubber, geotextile fabrics, and other materials. Inorganic mulches do not decompose and do not need to be replenished often. On the other hand, they do not improve soil structure, add organic materials, or provide nutrients. For these reasons, most horticulturists and arborists prefer organic mulches.

Organic mulches include wood chips, pine needles, hardwood and softwood bark, cocoa hulls, leaves, compost mixes, and a variety of other products usually derived from plants. Organic mulches decompose in the landscape at different rates depending on the material and climate. Those that decompose faster must be replenished more often. Because the decomposition process improves soil quality and fertility, many arborists and other landscape professionals consider that characteristic a positive one, despite the added maintenance.

Not Too Much!

As beneficial as mulch is, too much can be harmful. The generally recommended mulching depth is 2 to 4 inches. Unfortunately, many landscapes are falling victim to a plague of overmulching. A new term, “mulch volcanoes,” has emerged to describe mulch that has been piled up around the base of trees. Most organic mulches must be replenished, but the rate of decomposition varies. Some mulches, such as cypress mulch, remain intact for many years. Top dressing with new mulch annually (often for the sake of refreshing the color) creates a buildup to depths that can be unhealthy. Deep mulch can be effective in suppressing weeds and reducing maintenance, but it often causes additional problems.





Problems Associated with Improper Mulching

* Deep mulch can lead to excess moisture in the root zone, which can stress the plant and cause root rot.
* Piling mulch against the trunk or stems of plants can stress stem tissues and may lead to insect and disease problems.
* Some mulches, especially those containing cut grass, can affect soil pH. Continued use of certain mulches over long periods can lead to micronutrient deficiencies or toxicities.
* Mulch piled high against the trunks of young trees may create habitats for rodents that chew the bark and can girdle the trees.
* Thick blankets of fine mulch can become matted and may prevent the penetration of water and air. In addition, a thick layer of fine mulch can become like potting soil and may support weed growth.
* Anaerobic “sour” mulch may give off pungent odors, and the alcohols and organic acids that build up may be toxic to young plants.

Proper Mulching

It is clear that the choice of mulch and the method of application can be important to the health of landscape plants. The following are some guidelines to use when applying mulch.

* Inspect plants and soil in the area to be mulched. Determine whether drainage is adequate. Determine whether there are plants that may be affected by the choice of mulch. Most commonly available mulches work well in most landscapes. Some plants may benefit from the use of a slightly acidifying mulch such as pine bark.
* If mulch is already present, check the depth. Do not add mulch if there is a sufficient layer in place. Rake the old mulch to break up any matted layers and to refresh the appearance. Some landscape maintenance companies spray mulch with a water-soluble, vegetable-based dye to improve the appearance.
* If mulch is piled against the stems or tree trunks, pull it back several inches so that the base of the trunk and the root crown are exposed.
* Organic mulches usually are preferred to inorganic materials due to their soil-enhancing properties. If organic mulch is used, it should be well aerated and, preferably, composted. Avoid sour-smelling mulch.
* Composted wood chips can make good mulch, especially when they contain a blend of leaves, bark, and wood. Fresh wood chips also may be used around established trees and shrubs. Avoid using noncomposted wood chips that have been piled deeply without exposure to oxygen.
* For well-drained sites, apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch. If there are drainage problems, a thinner layer should be used. Avoid placing mulch against the tree trunks. Place mulch out to the tree’s drip line or beyond.

Remember: If the tree had a say in the matter, its entire root system (which usually extends well beyond the drip line) would be mulched.


E-mail inquiries: isa@isa-arbor.com


(c) 1998, 2004 International Society of Arboriculture.
UPDATED JULY 2005

Developed by the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA), a non-profit organization supporting tree care research around the world and is dedicated to the care and preservation of shade and ornamental trees. For further information, contact:
ISA, P.O. Box 3129, Champaign, IL 61826-3129, USA.
E-mail inquires: isa@isa-arbor.com

© 2007 International Society of Arboriculture.

MichaelTree_2008

What do you think Ekka?

Knotahippie

Great info. on mulching Treeseer.

Don't fine roots stop growing at about 80 deg?

Eric Frei

Yep, Treeseers post sums it up and weed killer took it's toll.

Trees take years to die and decline, what you are observing is the symptoms.

Now it's a task and a half to turn it around, that decline may have occurred over 5 years (but you just noticed).

So you need to be patient in the turn around too.

So many mulch, chuck a ton of jungle juice on it, and 3 months later whine about little change.

Even with humans they have found that cut and severed nerve ends can take 5 years to find each other and rejoin, process still scientifically undescribed how they know where each other is.

To ward off the bad fungi and the bad pests means some treatment, however that treatment can also kill the good guys and the good pests.

So this is what I do, and telling you what I do is simply my approach, many will argue, many will have their own ideas ....

... first dose, this is what I call the blank canvas.

I hit it up full tote odds with the chemical killers, that's Confidor for the the sap suckers and mites etc and usually copper based fungicide for the decay (but could also use phosphate based fungicide depending on which guys you are targeting.

So I drench, soak it real well with a wetting agent added to increase efficiency and penetration through soil, as far as I can, further than the dripline if you can. Tree sucks it up and you have some 30 days of combatants working for you now.

So, you've now wiped and cleaned your blank canvas.

Now we need to build a decent living soil back up. Yes, soil is full of living things, mostly after that drench everything is dead so need to rehabilitate with good guys.

Soil conditioners, worm juice, worms, organic ferts like blood/bone, mushroom compost, beneficial fungi (trichoderma and mychorrizal inoculants etc), wetting agents with mulch on top. Idea of wiping the canvas clean was not having the bad guys there to out populate the good guys, so now we're introducing new good guys. Sort of like sacking the board of directors of some corrupt corporation and replacing with educated ethical responsible good presidents.

Fall and winter are good times to build soil profiles, what you want to get cracking on is the treatment to kill off the bad guys, you need the tree in leaf and active preferably.

And then, for the rest of the trees life, water, organic fert, maintain mulch. Easy.

After the treatment and just at the beginning of the next growing season prune out any dead and diseased wood.

That would be my plan, others can be different however this is what I have found effective.

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