Tree selection and fertilization for large property in midwest

fastline

We are going to be shaping and starting a new property. We want to get trees in the ground asap. Wind protection and screening are paramount. We really need 2 types of trees. Our longer term and ornamentals, and some fast growing short lived trees to simply get some coverage until the others mature.

On the short list is Shumard Oak, Willow Oak, Baldcypress, lace bark elm, and maybe the sawtooth oak. I have also been looking for some info in the hybrid poplar and maybe a willow variety since they are supposed to grow really fast and the hybrid is supposed to get much wider.

Also, regard of tree selection, I want to push them with water and fertilizer. My uncle is an aborist and has indicated approx 1ft/yr extra growth if trees are pushed but I am open to other opinions and suggestions We are in Kansas so temps will swing from -20 - 110F at the extremes.

I was looking hard at the lacebark elm because they are supposed to grow fast but our extension office has them all and the oaks are actually bigger at 15yo.

Brent Ferris

Hybrid Poplars can grow fast - esp varieties of Eastern Cottonwood, but they also quickly deplete the soil, tend to be quite brittle and suffer storm damage, Ontario tried a number of hybrid poplars in 1960-1990's with Dr Zuffa - one variety achieved 3ft in diameter within 10 years - but had poor strength and so depleted the soil little else would grow, Look up (P. deltoides X nigra hybrids) as a starting point.
Poplars are pioneer species and grow well with less available water than willow. Expect at least 2-3 feet of shoot tip growth per year from the poplars once established
Saplings would prob give you the fastest return.
But if you are looking for protection for other species, perhaps you should consider some shrub species such as Honeysuckle (Lonicera sp) or Currants (Ribes sp) among others that can tolerate wind and drought and yet provide low level protection (to about 6 foot height) from the wind, The wind closest to the ground often does a lot of damage, esp if it picks up loose soil and can damage new plantings and esp ornamentals.,

Try to leave enough space for easy removal of the less desirables, and when you plant the species you want, strive for as much diversity as possible to minimize insect infestations and rampant disease proliferation.

__________________
My business: Tree Pruning and Removals -- Strump Removals -- Advice -- Consulting -- Arborist Reports
If you want an honest opinion, call Brent Ferris...because, Trees want to Live Too !
We do great jobs, even in small yards.

Free Estimates Oakville to Oshawa - North to Bradford (Will travel further if cost of travelling covered)

fastline

Thanks for the reply and I do agree with you regarding other plantings other than trees for fast seclusion. We have looking at switchgrass for one. Isn't honey suckle pretty pest prone? Maybe I remember that wrong.

What other plantings might you recommend that can achieve maybe a 6ft+ growth in 1 yr to offer seclusion? I do like that idea which would give some time for other plantings to come in.

I do plan to have a variety of plantings and recognize the concerns of dense primary plantings like pines that can ALL be wipes out with one pest.

What are your thoughts on the baldcypress? My uncle did not recommend them simple because they require water and can sort of stall in growth. i actually really like the look so might still plant them. they are also on our list of conservation trees so we can get them dirt cheap through the university.

Brent Ferris

Depending where you are in the midwest, Bald cypress should do ok.

Some of the grasses will achieve 6-10 feet in a year, and there are some trees that thrive on neglect like Manitoba Maple (Acer negundo) and Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima) that grow relatively quickly and have relatively short lives (under 100).

I have to wonder what the need is to have tall nurse trees right away. THe "better" trees will take time to grow and mature. And if you have a dense windbreak, that forces all but the strongest winds to go up and over your property, the "better" trees will never experience much wind, and when the nurse trees come down, the prime trees will have a much higher risk of being blown over. THis instant forest idea could have some unfortunate drawbacks,
Generally you want to mitigate the winds up to about 6-8 feet to allow the sapling stage an advantage, and then let the trees grow, and sway in the wind, It makes them stronger and hardier.

__________________
My business: Tree Pruning and Removals -- Strump Removals -- Advice -- Consulting -- Arborist Reports
If you want an honest opinion, call Brent Ferris...because, Trees want to Live Too !
We do great jobs, even in small yards.

Free Estimates Oakville to Oshawa - North to Bradford (Will travel further if cost of travelling covered)

Brent Ferris

I'm curious what trees you decided to plant, and how the project is going?

__________________
My business: Tree Pruning and Removals -- Strump Removals -- Advice -- Consulting -- Arborist Reports
If you want an honest opinion, call Brent Ferris...because, Trees want to Live Too !
We do great jobs, even in small yards.

Free Estimates Oakville to Oshawa - North to Bradford (Will travel further if cost of travelling covered)