Treatment for Mature Pin Oaks

warehouse

I have a grove of 16 Pin Oaks in my back yard which are approximately 20 years old. To me they look fairly healthy but my spouse is very concerned about the health of these trees as they provide a nice shady area during our hot Maryland summers. One problem is that they were planted too close together so some of the canopies are touching and the trees on the inside of the grove have a lot of leafless limbs because I don't think they are getting enough sun. We had two taken out but we should probably take out more.

My main question is about other maintenance of these trees. We had a local tree expert come out and look at them and he recommended an IV treatment for some Leaf Anthracnose and 3-0-20 fertilizer treatment via a deep root drench process. The combined quote for both of these seemed very expensive to me and I just wanted to get an opinion of how important these treatments are for mature Pin Oaks before I agree to this kind of investment. Also, what would be a priority, these treatments or thinning out the grove?

I also have one other question. The grass under these trees is now getting choked out by some kind of broad leaf weed. Is there any type of material that will kill these weeds and also be safe for the trees?

I know that it's hard to give an opinion without seeing the trees but any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Brent Ferris

Pics would make a big difference. Usually if you thin out the grove, and feed with liquid seaweed (or kelp), organic fertilizers and Trichoderma (helps tree roots absorb nutrients) the trees will look after themselves. Not being a fan of pesticides, I would dig out the weeds and cover the area with mulch, keeping the mulch away from the bark of the tree trunk.

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warehouse

Thanks for the response. Unfortunately I don't think I can mulch the whole area since it takes up probably 1/3 of an acre but I could mulch around the bases if you think that would help. I'll try to look into the natural solutions you suggested

I uploaded some photos to my smugmug account. Hopefully that will give you an idea of what I've got. I'm not a very good tree photographer!

pinoaks

Thanks again for the advice!

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Brent Ferris

I looked at your photos, and Eric will want you to load to this server so that the pics will last.

Essentially the trees have too much competition, and some will grow better if about 30 to 50% are removed, Decide which are the healthiest, strongest best trees (or bring in a qualified specialist to help you make the decision) and remove the rest. Since you have lots of space, if the trees are small enough, you might consider a tree mover that can lift trees up to 10 inch or so in diameter, and replant them further away rather than just destroying them. IT is not a cheap option, but neither is tree removal, and trees take time to grow,
In the Toronto area, a tree mover will typically ask around $800 to move a tree on the property. Call up a few in your area and ask what size tree they can lift and if they guarantee the health of the tree for what period of time,

The other thing is oak trees do better in acid soils with fungal systems; grass does better with predominantly bacterial microfauna and more alkaline soils. So wanting both to do well is counterproductive.

__________________
My business: Tree Pruning and Removals -- Strump Removals -- Advice -- Consulting -- Arborist Reports
If you want an honest opinion, call Brent Ferris...because, Trees want to Live Too !
We do great jobs, even in small yards.

Free Estimates Oakville to Oshawa - North to Bradford (Will travel further if cost of travelling covered)

Eric Frei

From another thread but about anthracnose, please note that for your trees there's hardly a sign of it and I'd say it's grossly exaggerated to suggest treating it.

Also read this thread caefully:-

Pin Oak and Chlorosis question

I would also suggest thinning out the group, by removal or transplant. Plus mulching the area beneath the drip line. You say it is large, that's OK, there's large buckets on machines like positrack's to help make fast work of it. Chunky mulch is best.

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Brent Ferris

I would be interested in knowing the identity of the broadleaf plant - it is fairly common, and quite tolerant of shade and drought, and could be very useful to establishing a ground cover in shady areas where little else would grow.

And if you are worried about the amount of mulch, you should be able to buy it in bulk-- either from nurseries or possibly tree services. It is best if the treed service mulch has been allowed to age a bit. Tremendous heat is generated with new chips. But the mulch will certainly control the groundcover.

__________________
My business: Tree Pruning and Removals -- Strump Removals -- Advice -- Consulting -- Arborist Reports
If you want an honest opinion, call Brent Ferris...because, Trees want to Live Too !
We do great jobs, even in small yards.

Free Estimates Oakville to Oshawa - North to Bradford (Will travel further if cost of travelling covered)

Joey Meister

i think those weeds are wild violets, if they are they can spread like crazy as when their seedpods burst it sends seeds flying, but you get a nice flower show in the spring, they can be purple, or white, i grow them in my flower beds