Stressed walnut tree

HankH

After 3 years of drought and unprecedented heat here in South Australia, our 40 year old walnut tree has taken a real battering.

We're keen to try and revive it, as it provides tremendous shade and shelter in the yard.

As you can see, a lot of it's foliage has been sunburnt and a good number of branches have died off.

Can anyone provide a plan of action? We're giving it all the water we can under current restrictions via several hours a week with a soaker house around the drip line. Aside from that and hoping for rain, what can be done? Would cutting off the barren branches help and if so, when should that be done?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Eric Frei

We need more pics, like of where the trunk goes into the ground and landscape view.

We need to see the lay of the land, other plants, turf, trees etc.

What part of Adelaide?

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newguy18

Removing the deadwood wouldn't hurt the tree,but only the deadwood,no live tissue should be removed,i also advise a qualified arborist carry out the work,not a treelopper or a mexican wita ladder and a chainsaw.i agree,we need some more pics.Maybe a ph test of the soil.

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old schooler

HankH

We're in the northern part of the eastern suburbs. The soils here are clay, but can be productive if you work it. 50 years ago this area was all market garden. Haven't done a soil test lately, but in general the soils were on the alkaline side.

More pics attached. In the yard, you can see the ring around the drip line where the grass is benefiting from the soaker hose. The nearest competing tree is a mature pear tree, doing well, 3 metres away.

Thanks!

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Eric Frei

That looks bad, real bad!

1/ Get the swings and ladders etc off the tree

2/ No playing under the tree for next 6 months

3/ Grass under the tree must go, it's a direct competitor with tree roots plus also encourages bacteria that is not a tree's friend. Best way to deal with this grass is, mow it short, wait 2 days, light spray with round up as per label.

4/ Once grass is dead need to do soil treatments. You need to buy seasol, liquid blood/bone or liquid dynamic lifter, wetting agent and some mychorrizal fungi/trichoderma. Mix it all up as per labels and soak the soil under the tree.

5/ Mulch under the tree, maybe 50mm thick.

As winter is coming you need to work fast and get things right for spring.

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HankH

Thanks for that! You're right, I wanted to get onto this now before the tree goes dormant and the extremely hot weather is (hopefully) over for the season.

Presume all your prescription is for an area under the tree up to the drip line or will a meter or so away from the trunk suffice?

Eric Frei

Drip line minimum, but even further the better.

No mulching up the trunk, leave a 6" bare bit.

In winter, dead wood. But you might have to observe now what bits are dead.

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Bernard Keays

Hank,

This is pretty good advice. Best of all its free. I’m not sure whether this interests you but I have attached a short cut to the 'Friends of the Waite Arboretum'. They have been working on their trees which are in similar circumstances to yours.

Waite Arboretum | Friends & Volunteers

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Bernie

HankH

You're right Bernard, this is good advice - and the price can't be beat. Thanks for the link. I know our tree isn't the only one in Adelaide suffering like this.

Thank you, Ekka. Looks like I've go my weekend cut out for me.

HankH

Hi Folks,

Nearly a year on and have since all this site's good advice on board. The tree survived into this year, but come Spring-time it was apparent there was a lot of dead wood. Our November heatwave didn't help it either.

I had an arborist have a look in the winter. He didn't want to cut into it until Spring when we could be certain which branches weren't coming back. Finally had them around this morning, and though they did a careful and considered job, the tree took a lot of cuts.

Any recommendations to help it overcome this stress and stimulate new growth? I'll keep the water on it as much as possible, but I don't want to do more harm than good with inappropriate fertilizer, etc.

Eric Frei

Yes, definately and I'll reccomend the Ekka Special.

You can mix these 3 products together, if you do make sure the Root Extender goes in last. A 10L watering can is sufficient. Apply beneath mulch if possible, apply frequently, perhaps every 30 days for the first 3 months then perhaps every 3 months.

Along with links to buy the stuff.

Silica
Seaweed solution
Root Extender

Also you may want to treat those wounds and perhaps spray the canopy of the tree to prevent parasitic fungi colonizing wounds.

Vinevax can be used over wounds or spray the entire tree, it is an antagonistic fungi to other parasitic fungi.

I believe the above products and solutions will increase tree health, increase root absorbtion rates and thicken cell walls making the tree more resilient to pathogens.

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HankH

Thanks Ekka! I'll get busy mixing that cocktail and hopefully I'll be back next year to report the tree is closer to its former glory.