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| | #1 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: May 2011 Location: Ohio
Posts: 57
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Hi again, Should I worry about any of these trees? The first tree is a Norway maple with a large hole in it. Parts of the bark are gone and there is this blackish stain running down the tree from this hole. Is this wetwood? Or is this just dirty water from the (probable) rotting wood in that hole? Would this hole be caused by a limb that fell off? All of my Norway Maples' leaves look like this. Are these just tar-spots? The Norway maples have been losing some of their leaves all summer but I have read that tar spots will not kill a tree. The next pictures are of a red maple that has lots of holes and cracks in the bark. The tree seems to be healthy (no leaves falling off), etc. The cracks are on both the south and north sides (worse on the south). The large hole in the bark is on the west side and has been there for at least 7 years but it seems to be a little smaller than it used to be. How would a tree develop such a large hole? Finally, this English Oak has some roots growing out of the ground and around the tree. Why would they grow like this? Is this a problem? Could this be girdling roots or are these roots too small to cause damage ?The tree seems to be healthy. The tree is 10+ feet from the house. Also, what is that vertical bulge on the side of the tree? None of the trees have ever been mulched and all the trees trunks seem to have a good root collar/flare. Did I attach too many pictures? Thank you, I really appreciate this forum and all the experts on here. I'd be lost without you guys Last edited by MikeSwim07; 1st September 2011 at 08:12 AM. |
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| | #2 | |
| Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,557
| Quote:
English Oak - the young roots may be from the oak, or a neighbouring tree -- at the moment they probably do not create much of an issue with the oak roots, but they are also easily removed without causing much hardship to which ever tree they belong, so I would remove them. Why do they grow like that? Roots are sent out looking for water, and unlike us, they can't backtrack (except by dying). So if they start out north, water is coming to them from the east they veer off to the east. Should these directional changes mean they cross the path of what will later (or even now) become sizeable roots is irrelevant in their quest for water. Unfortunately, eventually they and other roots will have a collision -- and root strangulation begins. The vertical bulge is likely scar tissue that has formed over a mechanical injury or bark split. It is indicative of dead tissue within the trunk, but if there is only one, for a tree this size, note it, and try not to injure the tree further. Red maple - the cracks in the bark appear to be near the base of the tree. This effect is common to all trees at some point. Essentially, the trunk is expanding faster than the expansion rate of the bark, and the bark cracks. Nothing to worry about. It is normal, and does not crack thru the inner bark. And often how the bark "cracks" gives important details for identification. The hole or damage near the base is almost certainly mechanical injury, most often caused by a machine too close to the tree. The biggest culprit is a lawnmower, or vandalism. The best cure for a lawnmower is mulch around the base (not touching the trunk) to stop grass growth, and stop the operator(s) from coming too close. It is reasonable the hole is getting smaller. During the tree's efforts to "seal" the wound thru compartmentalization, callus tissue forms around the wound, and eventually seals over the surface and locks the damaged tissue inside the trunk. Norway Maple - While tar spot seldom kills a tree, it can reduce the vigour of a tree. It forms best in damp, windy weather. So if your area has a droughty summer, and droughty fall, the tree will suffer little from tar spot; and if there are a number of rains during AUgust, and September is wet, tar spot is more prevalent., Of course, if the summer is droughty, the tree suffers from lack of water (which a number of your leaves indicate - tips and edges show brown - called "scorch") and an extended drought can kill the tree. Myself, i would rather deal with the effects of tar spot. So, get yourself and your neighbours to collect all the infected leaves, and either put them in a massive compost heap that gets hot enough to kill the pathogen, or send them to a municipal dump that does the same thing with much greater volumes. If everyone in an area (within 2 km radius) is diligent, often the pathogen can be slowed or even eliminated for a few years. Most of the native species are resistant. Additionally feed the tree with bonemeal, bloodmeal, potash - all organic fertilizers and liquid seaweed (the non-smelly variety) - to enhance the health of the tree(s). After all, measles may not kill you, but if you get it year after year, you will become so weak something else will.,
__________________ My business: Tree Pruning and Removals -- Strump Removals -- Advice -- Consulting -- Arborist Reports Consulting Forester If you want an honest opinion, call Brent Ferris...because, Trees want to Live Too ! We do great jobs, even in small yards. Free Estimates Oakville to Oshawa - North to Bradford (Will travel further if cost of travelling covered) Email -- treeshaveneeds@3web.com Cell 416-460-5704 | |
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| | #3 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: May 2011 Location: Ohio
Posts: 57
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Hi Thanks for the helpful answers. What about that large hole that is dripping fluid down the trunk? Thanks again, Mike |
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| | #4 |
| Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,557
|
Get your nose up to the hole (after you remove as much water as you can) and if you can hear a bubbling sound, or see bubbles, or it really stinks (and not like stagnant water), then it might be wetwood. More likely, it is a hole caused by a decayed branch and water collects there. Either way, fill the hole with a 1:1 solution of bleach and water -- which will kill the bacteria (wetwood) or any undesirable denizens in the water that are present. After a few days, you can drill a hole at an upwards angle (about 45 deg) to intersect the hole (near the base inside), and insert a piece of rubber hose so it goes in 3-4 inches, and sits out 4 inches or so. This will allow the water to drain, for now, and in the future until the tree seals the hole thru compartmentalization. Please do not fill the hole with anything. Anything soft will not stop insects or animals; anything hard will either break and have no benefit or be so hard to create hardship to the tree when it sways in the wind,
__________________ My business: Tree Pruning and Removals -- Strump Removals -- Advice -- Consulting -- Arborist Reports Consulting Forester If you want an honest opinion, call Brent Ferris...because, Trees want to Live Too ! We do great jobs, even in small yards. Free Estimates Oakville to Oshawa - North to Bradford (Will travel further if cost of travelling covered) Email -- treeshaveneeds@3web.com Cell 416-460-5704 |
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