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| | #1 |
| I'm new here so be nice Join Date: May 2011 Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 4
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I need some help with my beautiful beech tree that is dying on me suddenly. The tree sits in front of and above our 1935 house in White Plains, New York, and we believe the tree is about that old. Three-four weeks ago, the leaves began to open and the tree looked healthy and beautiful as usual. The first warning sign that something was wrong was that the tree dropped all of it's male flowers (little fuzzies with tails) in just about one afternoon. In the past, this has taken several weeks but the leaves still looked OK. A week ago, I was hanging out an upstairs window to measure for new shutters and I saw the leaves had started turning brown. All of them! The bark looks OK to me, there are no obvious critters living within or on the tree, we have not changed the grade, sprayed anything in the area, planted or removed anything, etc. I've dropped off a clipping to the local Cornell Cooperative Extension for diagnosis, but it's taking a long time. What is wrong with her and can we save her??? Please help! |
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| | #2 |
| Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,557
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It looks like an insect infestation wherein the larvae eat out the inside of the leaf. Most people think leaves are really thin -- like one cell or maybe two thick. But most leaves are at least 10-15 cells thick -- and if the insect is small enough they feed on these inner cells protected from the weather. THe kind of insect escapes me at the moment. Occasionally spraying works; injections are probably better because the active agent is transported via the sap to cells within the leaves,. But, in a few weeks, most of these leaves will drop off, and the tree will grow new ones to replace those lost, Continue watering and the tree should do okay, One pic shows an apparently vibrant tree. Sanitation is the best defence. THe insects probably overwinter in the leaves or the top layer of soil -- so a fastidious fall cleanup helps minimize overwintering populations, Someone else here can prob identify the most likely insect, and pesticidal control, Hope this helps,
__________________ My business: Tree Pruning and Removals -- Strump Removals -- Advice -- Consulting -- Arborist Reports Consulting Forester If you want an honest opinion, call Brent Ferris...because, Trees want to Live Too ! We do great jobs, even in small yards. Free Estimates Oakville to Oshawa - North to Bradford (Will travel further if cost of travelling covered) Email -- treeshaveneeds@3web.com Cell 416-460-5704 |
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| | #3 |
| Admin - Owner Palm & Tree Services in Brisbane Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 12,993
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Even though it's on top of a hill it really does look like it's getting drowned to me. Also maybe some sort of blight? The dieback is most prevalent around the leaf veins so I think problem is internal and not bugs on the outside. Internal is usually some fungal or bacterial infection, it's in the vascular system. You need to treat with systemic fungicide, that's what my money is on ..... any bets anyone?
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| | #4 |
| Bayside Tree Care Brisbane Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Brisbane Aus
Posts: 1,641
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Just a quick question have you had any work done around that side or the back of the house in the last couple of years? the tree looks odd! it seems to be showing signs of stress and throwing epicormics, the form just doesn't look right to me. what is the bark arond the main trunk like? there is a huge epidemic of Neonectria (beech bark disease complex) in the USA.
__________________ My business:- Brisbane Bayside Tree Care |
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| | #5 |
| Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,557
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Leaf Miner is the insect I was trying to think of - only feeds within the leaf leaving the outer surfaces intact, so there is no obvious bug infestation. The biggest infestation occurs in the spring, heavily damaged leaves are replaced by new growth, control is difficult, long term effect is weakening of the tree (over 10 years or more) so organic fertilizers are strongly recommended ![]() Nectria causes cankers that kill off the branches, and I see no sign of any cankers.
__________________ My business: Tree Pruning and Removals -- Strump Removals -- Advice -- Consulting -- Arborist Reports Consulting Forester If you want an honest opinion, call Brent Ferris...because, Trees want to Live Too ! We do great jobs, even in small yards. Free Estimates Oakville to Oshawa - North to Bradford (Will travel further if cost of travelling covered) Email -- treeshaveneeds@3web.com Cell 416-460-5704 Last edited by Brent Ferris; 23rd May 2011 at 11:07 PM. Reason: more info |
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| | #6 |
| I'm new here so be nice Join Date: May 2011 Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 4
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Thank you all so much for the responses! - We've had almost two straight weeks of record rain here, after record snow falls this winter, so that would explain why she looks so waterlogged. - We've only owned the house for 4 years, but have not had any work done on the house exterior or property. The same gardener has been taking care of the property for 40+ years, and we feed this tree, our hickory and dogwood every year. We are planning on painting the house if the rain ever stops here and I'm hoping that won't stress her out even more. The painters promised they'll respect her roots! - The shape is a little odd because her leaves are so pathetic looking and dropping right now - she usually provides a beautiful, lush canopy that extends out to the street on both sides. The pic here taken in the fall was after she already dropped half her leaves. We have to prune her every two years because she's directly over the house, but only take down dead wood or heavy, sagging branches. Also, the house faces north east and the tree leans towards the back of the house towards the afternoon sun. And, there's also a large hickory on the side of the house and some of that blends in in the picture I posted. - I don't think it's beech bark disease because she's not showing any signs of that, but again, I could be wrong. Here are some more photos of the bark and branches... |
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| | #7 |
| Bayside Tree Care Brisbane Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Brisbane Aus
Posts: 1,641
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ok definitely not nectria the form looks good and unlike the other pic there isn't lots of epicormic growth, this is where good quality photos from lots of angles comes in. can you get a pic of the root flare from two or three sides and a close up of the damaged leaves put them onto a piece of white paper it will illuminate them better for the photo, but i think personally treeshaveneeds has it with leaf borer.
__________________ My business:- Brisbane Bayside Tree Care |
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| | #8 |
| Admin - Owner Palm & Tree Services in Brisbane Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 12,993
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In my experience when leaves get around 50% damaged the tree drops them. To drop the leaf the tree cuts of supply so you will see further deterioration, then the natural abscission zone comes into affect and the leaf falls. What you need to watch is where new leaves grow, hopefully on the tips near where the old leaves fell. And hopefully those new leaves do not get hammered by bugs. I personally think the tree will be OK. I would do an imidacloprid (Merit) drench around the trunk flare and collar (called collar drench). Why? Because it is highly likely that sap suckers could move in, and if they do then you'll be in real strife. The affect of this drench would last around 30 days and offer some protection whilst the tree tries to grow new leaves (hopefully drier weather coming too). By only doing a collar drench most of the absorbing roots and soil biota further out will remain unaffected. Collar drench is a viable alternative to injecting and spraying, application rates to be appropriate as we are talking a tree here not some rose bush. ![]() Get cracking.
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| | #9 |
| I'm new here so be nice Join Date: May 2011 Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 4
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Thanks, again for all your help. Here are some requested shots of the root flare and leaves. Yes, that's sunshine in the photos - AMEN! In a search, I happened upon this site Welcome to the UD Plant Diagnostic Clinic web site The leaves and symptoms of my tree seem identical to those from trees suffering from Beech Anthracnose in Deleware. It's a few states south of me, but has a similar climate. I think this might just be the culprit! What do you guys think? Eric - would the collar drench still work for this? Also, cost is really not an issue - anything it takes to save this tree is fine by me. And in my neck of the woods, it will cost about $6,000 to take this tree down, so treating the problem will surely be a savings! |
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| | #10 | |
| Admin - Owner Palm & Tree Services in Brisbane Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 12,993
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You can treat anthracnose with fungicide but clearly not by spraying for a tree that size. We get it here on mango trees a lot, often when it's been really wet. In orchards they spray. But I believe you do not need to go that way, in fact I found this:- Source: Quote:
http://www.batphone.com.au/index.php...id=8&Itemid=29 The microbe arm mix and root extender is the go. Also to be added is silica and seaweed products. That will restore good soil biota and let this tree repair itself.
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| | #11 |
| I'm new here so be nice Join Date: May 2011 Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 4
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Thanks, Eric! You win the prize for having nailed it as a fungus in your first reply! ![]() On my way to the garden center now to look for similar products to the ones you suggested, and I'll update this thread on her progress. Again, thank you so much for your help and patience in answering my questions! |
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| | #12 |
| Admin - Owner Palm & Tree Services in Brisbane Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 12,993
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