Problem with a Linden tree

treevet

PS as an after thought, I did leaf thru your article of other people's opinions and was not surprised to see the main source of all my education..Alex Shigo, mention that if a root is girdling and quite large (one must assume he meant relatively) that it should preferentially be LEFT ALONE!

Eric Frei

From a logical perspective....

If there's an emotional attachment to the tree that prevents the owner cutting it down, then over time will that bond:-

1/ Decrease
2/ Stay the same
3/ Increase

And over that time will the tree's condition:

1/ Get worse
2/ Stay the same
3/ Improve

What if the emotional bond increases over time and the tree's condition is getting worse?

__________________

treeseer

From one pic you can see a girdling root that positively should be pruned. If there is any question about what gets cut where and when, I just think about priorities and dose.

Eric you ask good questions, but the answers may be all dependent on the care the tree gets.

Dave, I've checked and seen that I've been been carrying on about SGR's for 7 years. You're right; that is a long time, and fat lot of good it's done. Have you ever pruned an SGR?

"regardless of the future consequences of the pressure of the roots, to cut them off while this tree has so many other negative issues would, in my opinion, tip the scales towards replacing the tree as it would jeopardize the health of the tree by losing the function of these roots as roots regardless of the girdling condition."

Dave, trees need branches, right? Yet you and I cut branches off every day, sometimes lots of them. How exactly would pruning that one root, <5% of the root system, "jeopardize its health"? Sure it's got some bark-and-sapwood rot over the forks but it does not look low in vitality. Hey Eric can you start a poll: post that pic and see how many folks would prune the root, or not, or don't know, or don't care??

willem

Hello
I'm also convinced that this tree has a lot of structural problems. These problems will become bigger with the tree growing bigger. Also dangerous because of its position near the road.
Replacing it by a new tree is a solution, but if you very fond of this tree you can maintain it by pruning. It will also cost you money every 3 to 5 years.
You have to get a good arborist with lots of pruning experience. He or she has to thin out the crown and reduce crown volume. This pruning has to be done especialy at the end of the big limbs. Do not prune branches with diameter bigger than 100mm.
First pruning remove 40 % of crownvolume. The tree will react enormously so second prunining within 3 years. % can be lower this time. After this every 5 year pruning regime. % can vary depending on tree reactiongrowth.
If you cann't find a good arborist pruner you can choose another solution.
The structural integrety is the biggest problem, solution is reduce limbs.
Reduce all limbs, the tree will react with many new shouts. These shouts can be trimmed like a hedge. The end result is as in the picture below
This will also cost you becaus every two years someone has to come and trim the tree. But the tree is still in you yard and remains roughly the same size.

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treevet

Those appear to be pollards? I think the cost of maint as opposed to , again , replacement may be in order here. I would be likely to let the tree persist if it were in a less important part of the yard (back yard) with no targets also.

treeseer

What about decay at these reduction cuts?
What about lost contributions from lost tree size?
What about cabling to restore structural integrity?

willem

Your right about the costs. It`s a choice you make and how fond you are of this particular tree. But you can maintain the tree in this way. The species shown here is Carpinus Betulus, no idea what the English name is. The same is done overhere wtih Linden (Tillia)

willem

You will have decay, you don't want to make te cuts to big( 150 MM max.).
Decay is of less importance because of weightreduction on limbs.
Lost contributions?? I'm not sure what you mean??
Cabeling isn't a real solution because with growth of tree problems worsen and than there has to be done more cabeling and replacement of cabeling.

treeseer

i like pollarding, when it's started early enough for callus knobs to form. Nice picture of the hornbeam trees--we have fastigiate forms we use as street trees too.

The smaller the tree, the less shade, noise reduction, visibility etc.Willem, you have recommended a pruning program that requires much aftercare, almost yearly. Now you say cabling is not a "real solution" because cables have to be replaced. how often, dave? every 20 or 30 years?

I don't understand the math here.

treevet

I once pressed a mfctr in regards to the life span of his cable and he would only commit to 7 years for metal fatigue. Also the standard 1/3 ht. above the crotch will cause replacement or augmentation as tree grows (if not pollarded-may be too late to est a pollard).

What about entrance of decay in root pruning, entrance of decay caused by compressed cells by the girdling roots, entrance of decay in the 6 holes drilled for initial cables, (and later cables), we already have 2 stem span wounds for the one existing screw rod, what about the entrance of decay in late start pollard heads, entrance of decay in the included bark of 3 codom. stems, what about the entrance of decay in the already identified 2 existing canker?

It has been mentioned that there is emotional ties to this tree, I do not recall seeing that and don't feel like reviewing......but, I have had clients call me crying (crying) with the decline of a "dedicated" (death, birth, etc.) tree that has gotten fireblight, DED, or some other terminal disease and the prolonged suffering is worse (with questionable remedial treatments) than if a tree had been "re-dedicated" which is a service I have provided numerous times with a gorgeous personally chosen new tree.

It doesn't necessarily indicate a lack of feeling or sensitivity in the removal and replacement of a tree. It may be just the opposite.

treeseer

UH TYPO DUDE--STANDARD IS 2/3![QUOTE]

What about entrance of decay in root pruning,
**minimal--they codit very well**
entrance of decay caused by compressed cells by the girdling roots,
**nonexistent so far as i have seen**
entrance of decay in the 6 holes drilled for initial cables, (and later cables),
**minimal if 2/3 high, mostly sapwood**
we already have 2 stem span wounds for the one existing screw rod,
**long since codite**
what about the entrance of decay in late start pollard heads,
**no need to pollard if cabling is done**
entrance of decay in the included bark of 3 codom. stems, what about the entrance of decay in the already identified 2 existing canker?
**yes that needs further assessment by a pro. after this yields a prognosis then owner decides to restore or replace. Meantime it'd be a good idea to plant others nearby, eh?