Prickly Paperbark transplant shock?

Araich

Hey all.

I planted two Prickly Paperbark trees - one West, one East - of our house in West Melbourne, in April. They've had fairly good moisture and only the smallest amount of a native plant fertiliser mixed into the planting hole (not touching root ball) and a dilute seaweed on planting.

We are new to the area and I have been amazed at the constant wind. Both trees are exposed. They are about 70cm tall.

Now they have serious leaf death/loss, with perhaps 80% of the leaves brown and dry, many falling it touched. Tips last to go. I think they have been desiccated by the drying wind before the roots could get established.

Question is, will they recover? Could it be anything else? I have planted numerous other trees around them and none have similar damage.

Would pruning help them? Wind breaks are not an option as they're both on verges.

Thanks so much, Robert

Eric Frei

What about the roots it was planted with, were they not established?

Check soil moisture levels of transplanted root ball, possibly over watered or dried out.

Do not prune, wait, be patient.

Do not fertilize.

Do water (if and when req'd with seasol included)

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Araich

Thanks Ekka. Over watering is unlikely as one site is dry, the other moist, yet both trees look the same.

I am really surprised that a paperbark would suffer such water-loss through those small naturally dry leaves. They had healthy roots and not pot bound. Maybe a little too top heavy...

I did cut out some of the smaller completely dry branches (before your post) in an effort to reduce water loss. I guess now that might shocked them more?

I wonder what I could have done differently? Plant smaller, prune before planting, suck it and erect a wind break?

Eric Frei

Pictures can help us out here.

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Araich

Here's a follow-up should anyone have a similar problem.

I took out one of the trees and potted it, the other I pruned out 30-40% of the branches and left.

Both have now recovered. The pruned one bounced back faster and now has a better structure and shape - but it also did not get pulled up.

In both cases new growth came back to all but a couple of branches, including the central leader.

Lesson: Plant smaller, shelter and watch out for Melbourne's dry winter wind.

kiwi_tree_steve

often times, people plant there trees too deep, and this can have a similar effect to what you describe... this is a possible option.

strong trees can recover from being planted " a little deep " however be aware when planting, there are many things that should be considered when transplanting, some things that i always check, recheck and make sure im happy with are.

* I always dig a hole big enuff to maneuver in and work in, this seem silly but it really makes your life if you don't go lazy on the dig, give plenty of room!
*take as big a root ball as you can, not as small as you can get away with
*Clearly mark north on the tree to be transplanted, i tag a branch, and also cut a V in the edge of the root ball to ensure the tree is planted in its natural (Prior to transplanting) orientation, this is to give the tree as best chance as we can to replicate the previous environment. one of the reasons that i do this is that Auxin ( Plant growth hormone) loves the shade, and is in play u with cell elongation, hence the cells on the shaded side of the tree can be longer than the sunny side, if you switch the positions, you cause structural issues for the tree and the has tree has spend energy to recover from that before establishing roots. Auxin is responsible for many things in the trees system mostly growth, and is found in large quantity in the apical tips. ( thats were the most growth happens)
*Raise the center of the hole your planting in, normally i make an area around 15% - 20% of the size of the root ball, this allows less resistance if i need to re position the tree, less resistance = less damage to the root ball.
*when planting be sure to leave the root flare ABOVE the soil, this one catches many out, and to be honest some nursery too, ,choose your plant stock well.
* be aware when you stake the tree, remember that auxin is light sensitive, and put the stakes North - south to avoid any issue's if the stakes are going to be long term.
* Water in well.

As Ekka says no fert its a waste of time ,and in some cases or opinions it does damage to fine root hairs.

sorry to rant just a pet peeve of mine....

steve

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"You have to feel and touch a tree" Shigo

stirmantrees

thank you Araich for following up. That is very helpful when someone reports back.

looks like wind could be the culprit

Jeff Darby

Sounds like a lot of good advice there, Steve.

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stirmantrees

yeah. thanks steve. looks like you do tree work or something
well thought out, never thought about always maintaining consistant direction when planting. Not to mention some supporting evidence

kiwi_tree_steve

thanks Stir, that's a taste of what 2 years worth of passion, hard study, and Quality Tutors, can get ya... Thanks WINTEC Hort School, i appreciate what i have learn't form you all

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"You have to feel and touch a tree" Shigo