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| | #1 |
| I'm new here so be nice Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Ardmore, PA
Posts: 4
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In a separate thread I have been asking for advice on an okame cherry tree I bought (Okame Cherry: bad branching structure?). I am trying to understand if the tree has structure problems. apparently the tree has a co-dominant leader. I can see where, about half way up, the trunk splits. But i don't understand how problematic this is. Do okame cherries always do this? I have been looking at trees around town and seems like most have trunks that split. Are all of these co-dominant leaders? Or does it have to be a certain angle to qualify (and be a problem)? In my okame, the angle is pretty tight, but the crotch, at this point in its young life, is a U not a V. Does that matter? When I bought the tree I asked the nursery guy if there were any problems with the tree's structure. He said there were none (hmm!). Should he have pointed this out to me? How common are co-dominant leaders and are they grounds for complaining about a tree to the nursery? thanks, steve |
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| | #2 |
| Admin - Owner Palm & Tree Services in Brisbane Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 12,993
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Co-dominant means exactly what it says. Two dominant leaders, usually about the same diameter and about the same height. Now just because they are co-dominant doesn't mean they are all bad. Depends on whether or not there is included bark and how acute the angle is, plus of coarse tree weighting, canopy bias etc etc refer ...... V and U shaped Crotch Strengths, included bark| codominant stems etc
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| | #3 |
| I'm new here so be nice Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Ardmore, PA
Posts: 4
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How can I determine if my tree has included bark? Can you tell from the photos? Thanks again, Steve |
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| | #4 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 179
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This is what included bark forks do. There is bark in between the 2 trunks that are pushing on each other as they get thicker they push harder and harder to one day it pushes itself apart and the wind is usually blamed. Co-dominate stems can have included bark then they are very bad if not then theyjust are not perfect unions. If there is a bit of a saddle in between like yours not to bad. To understand the trouble you need to understand how trees grow. At the start of the growing season the small twigs start to grow then latter branches and last of all the large trunks (this was not known till the 70's) At branch unions the branches grow wood over the trunk and latter in the season the trunk grows wood over the branch wood. It is these overlapping layers that hold branches on. Now co-dominate stems grow at the same time so no over lapping layers therefore not as strong. What I often do is reduce one leader to a side branch and let the other be the leader so it gets larger so the overlapping can occur in future years. Hope this makes sence to you. |
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| | #5 |
| Admin - Owner Palm & Tree Services in Brisbane Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 12,993
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Glennak, That ironbark that you have shown a pic of, is that in Melbourne? What have you got that ones ssp name as?
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| | #6 |
| Bayside Tree Care Brisbane Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Brisbane Aus
Posts: 1,641
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I would have that as a Eucalyptus Crebra (narrow leaved iron bark) but the buds and leaves would help
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| | #7 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 179
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Yep it's in a park in Melbourne and it was a bit slack of them to leave it to split like that. Its a Eucalyptus sideroxylon Red Ironbark. Many years ago my old boss and I were driving through a box ironbark forest in central victoria and decided to do a survey. We found that 3/5 ironbarks had included bark forks about the same as the ironbark street trees planted in Ballarat at the time. No better than Euc nicholii but at least Ironbarks are stronger.
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| | #8 |
| Admin - Owner Palm & Tree Services in Brisbane Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 12,993
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They're notorious up here for inclusions also. It's almost a genetic thing. The tree doesn't have the odd one but almost all unions are included bark co-doms.
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| | #9 | |
| Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Victoria, Australia
Posts: 1,152
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| | #10 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 179
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JE Moore Park in Reservoir
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| | #11 |
| Mature Tree Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Posts: 1,594
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I agree on Red Ironbarks. Almost everyone you see has really bad acute V unions, usually with included bark to boot! Very common to split. Ideal to cable.
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| | #12 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 179
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| | #13 |
| I'm new here so be nice Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Ardmore, PA
Posts: 4
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Given that my Okame Cherry has a codominant leader, and that one of the leaders has its dominant branch pointing to the interior of the tree, i am thinking that i need to do some strategic pruning, possibly attempting to make this leader be less dominant, and losing that inward branch the tree was planted a week ago, in a burlap root ball. i read somewhere that the tree is struggling to produce new roots so it might be a bad time to do any significant pruning. - how do i train a leader to be less dominant without hurting the tree and making it grow suckers? - should it be a slow process over a few seasons? - should i wait till winter (it is summer here now)? thanks, steve |
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| | #14 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 179
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No don't wait do it now so the other can grow. If you cut less than a 1/3 it shouldn't sucker a lot. Don't leave stubs and remove any suckers before they get too large and you shouldn't have any problems even if you take more than a 1/3.
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| | #15 |
| Mature Tree Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Posts: 1,594
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| | #16 | |
| Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Mannering Park, Australia
Posts: 623
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![]() you spent good money on that tree by the look of it, the answer to your question is, if your not sure of this point, you could compromise the health of the tree, I've seen too many improperly pruned cherries, they rot eventually at the pruning site, not pretty. If you feel that you would like to help the tree to gain the best form, spent that little bit more, and invest in some professional help. Glennak is right in suggesting it should be done now, my humble suggestion, protect the money you have obviously spent and get in someone that will bring the tree to it's best potential. Julie | |
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| | #17 |
| Admin - Owner Palm & Tree Services in Brisbane Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 12,993
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Subordination is also an option, and in a young tree like we see it's a great option as the crotch is U shaped and there's no included bark I can see. Slowly the union will change to a collar as one leader assumes the trunk role the other a branch. Subordination also makes for smaller dia cuts that seal quickly.
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| | #18 | |
| Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Mannering Park, Australia
Posts: 623
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Any links on that Eric? Sounds interesting. Julie | |
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| | #19 |
| Admin - Owner Palm & Tree Services in Brisbane Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 12,993
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It's pretty common knowledge but I have loaded up a section which includes it. http://www.treeworld.info/f42/strate...ees-15152.html
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| | #20 |
| Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Mannering Park, Australia
Posts: 623
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knew the method not the terminology, now I do. |
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