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| | #1 |
| I'm new here so be nice Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: michigan
Posts: 4
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I have a tree in my yard to cut (maple). Need to top it out. I bought spurs and saddle and need a quick class on how to safely do this. I do not have much experience with spurs. Also I bought a arborists saw (echo 14"). Any help greatly appreciated!! Thanks.
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| | #2 |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl
Posts: 4,948
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First off welcome,second,topping so it can be removed i hope.Unfortunatley there no way a few posts and a couple videos can prepare you for everythign that can go wrong up there.Just a fair warning after you've removed all the limbs and go to cut the top,as the top breaks off,the tree is going to move alot so brace your self.it will move as you are blocking down too,i strongley recomend haveing a pro do it.If you are hell bent on doing it yourself though buy a book called the fundamentals of general treework first,read it and understand it.It can be found here,A Tree Story: books and videos by Gerald F Beranek. For a beginer a safe way to top it out would be to use the chainsaw to make the notch,then use a handsaw to make the backcut,that way you can SAFELY put one hand on the trunk while cutting with the other,not so with a chainsaw.I also recomen leaving a limb just below where you cut the top out that way you can tie in with your climb line so if something goes wrong and you get hurt,you have a way to the ground.Ialso recomend you watch this video as it shows pretty well what happens when the top comes out,Tall thin spotty gum removal rigged down knotless videod with helcam also recomend you watch all the videos that invlove tree removals,that way you can see first hand,climbers point of view everything that happens,we just make it look really easy,it can be really difficult,and as i said before best left to the pros.
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| | #3 |
| Former Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Perth
Posts: 307
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Hi Scott. You have come to the right place for advice. If we are to help you with this job photgraphs are really important. Please take whole tree photographs. Tree pruning or removing is high risk work. This forum is full of threads where experienced arborists talk about injuries and property damage that they themselves have caused. I would strongly advise having a professional arborist do the work for you. I understand you have spent a lot of money on gear but you life is worth far more. That said, if you insist on doing the job yourself, I recommend the following. 1.Do a chainsaw safety and handling course 2.Do a hands-on arbor climbing course. Not a rock climbing course or an abseilling course or a wall climbing course......arbor climbing. It is quite different. 3.Buy hard hat, climbing gloves, eye and ear protection, saw proof pants or chaps and a good 1st aid kit. 4.Do the job with at least 1 other person who is physically capable of carrying your body weight. 5.Do the job on a clear calm day where you are not pressured for time. 6.Get a good life insurance policy. If I understand you correctly you want to prune this tree rather than remove it altogether. If this is the case you must NOT use spurs. The wounds inflicted on a living tree by spurs can allow diseases and parasites to enter and ultimately lead to the death of the tree. If you do want to prune the tree only then mark on the photographs exactly where you would like this to be. I use Microsoft paint for this purpose it works a treat. I have never worked on a Maple, we see very few of them in this part of the world, but there are very few trees which can be succesfully "topped". Personally, I can count on the fingers of one hand, how many tree species I will pollard. Pollarding is similar to topping but not the same. You will need a North American arborist to advise you exactly what you can and cannot do with a Maple. Last of all. Welcome. If you listen to the advice you are certain to recieve from the forum members here you will be well ahead of the race. Congratulations on asking for help. Common sense isnt all that common. You used yours today. |
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| | #4 |
| Former Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Perth
Posts: 307
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Damn it NG. You beat me! |
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| | #5 |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl
Posts: 4,948
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what can i say,i was at his same place almost 2 years ago,i was on another forum and didn't get much help,just bashed and flamed,Ekka was the only one who really helped me.I've learned heaps here so its only right to return the favor to someone else who needs advice.
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| | #6 |
| I'm new here so be nice Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: michigan
Posts: 4
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Thanks for the help guys is appreciate it. I need to remove the whole tree. I am only concerned w/the canopy though. Once removed I can drop the remainder w/no trouble. What I really need is advice on my climbing. I bought some nice buckingham spurs/pads and a nice harness/saddle. I have only climbed a few trees w/these and want to be safe and correct when I do.
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| | #7 | |
| Former Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Perth
Posts: 307
| Quote:
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| | #8 |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl
Posts: 4,948
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Watc these videos, Gecko climbers vs Caddy Pads Knotless rigging pine removal www.treeworld.info/video/tahune.wmv
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| | #9 |
| Bayside Tree Care Brisbane Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Brisbane Aus
Posts: 1,641
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If you re absoloutely hellbent on doing it yourself then do as the others have sais but TAKE YOUR TIME and BE SAFE at all times if in doubt dont do it find another way. be safe G
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| | #10 | |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Upper Michigan U.S.A.
Posts: 128
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| | #11 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Adelaide
Posts: 104
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This really pisses me off arborists train for years to do this kind of work because its dangerous! Most people will pay an electrician to do electrical work cause if you get it wrong your DEAD! Same with tree work. Every week you hear off some one dyeing doing tree work. You should return that gear you bought and pay a professional to do the work for you. The rest of you guys should be ashamed of yourselves not only are you incouraging a novice to do something dangerous you are also undermining our profession! |
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| | #12 |
| Former Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: SE USA
Posts: 753
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Maples are decurrent and branchy so you would have to retie a lot. Why not just use a ladder? Handsaws are much more efficient and easy than chainsaw for small (<8") cuts. Why cut--Is the tree dead? |
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| | #13 | |
| Former Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Perth
Posts: 307
| Quote:
![]() In Australia electrical work is governed by law, arborwork on the other hand is covered by standard. Two quite different concepts. As much as I, and most of the other respondents to this post, want Scott to hire a professional arborist, we are aware the chances that he will are slim. After all, he has posted to tell us he purchased some expensive equipment. You can lead a horse to water but you cannot make it drink. I did not and do not encourage novices to undertake tree work. Nor will I stand by and allow a novice to injure himself when some pertinent advice could have saved his skin. | |
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| | #14 |
| Former Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: SE USA
Posts: 753
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| | #15 | |
| Former Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Perth
Posts: 307
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Piffle? I do not care for your tone sir! Humour aside, I cannot control what others take from my advice. I will still offer it where I deem it "pertinent". In this instance, what if Scott, in asking the original question, had been flamed by righteous arborists for having the nerve to ask advice on how to cut down a tree. What if then with his back up, he had gone and cut without any further information. What if he had then hurt himself or someone else...... I stand by my original response Treeseer. Did you read it? | |
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| | #16 |
| Mature tree Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bay Area Ca.
Posts: 355
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Climbing and cutting isn't easy and working in the tree with a chainsaw is deadly. There is alot of good lit. about tree work out there but it takes time to study...being trained by a professional is your best bet to staying unbroken. |
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| | #17 |
| Former Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Perth
Posts: 307
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| | #18 | |
| Former Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: SE USA
Posts: 753
| Quote:
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| | #19 | |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl
Posts: 4,948
| Quote:
__________________ Have your say join us today.![]() old schooler | |
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| | #20 |
| Monument Status Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA
Posts: 2,119
| Let's see um! Tree, surroundings, tree equipment, your equipment (biceps, beer gut if any, etc.). assistant (pal, mom, dog...?). .....Piffle.....great.... |
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| | #21 |
| Former Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Perth
Posts: 307
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| | #22 |
| Monument Status Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA
Posts: 2,119
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| | #23 |
| Former Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Perth
Posts: 307
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| | #24 |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl
Posts: 4,948
| at least he picked a tame forum to join.
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| | #25 |
| Monument Status Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA
Posts: 2,119
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| | #26 |
| Former Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: SE USA
Posts: 753
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| | #27 |
| Mature tree Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bay Area Ca.
Posts: 355
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Maybe he could trade straight across, the gear for the removal. |
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| | #28 |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl
Posts: 4,948
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You guys are kinda narrow minded,if i were in his neighborhood i'd be more than happy to teach him[or any one else for the matter]the ropes of tree cimbing.I know,i'm just degrading the industry i'm a bad person.Go ahead heckle em,cuss me out I DON'T CARE.
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| | #29 | |
| Former Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Perth W.A.
Posts: 84
| Quote:
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| | #30 |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl
Posts: 4,948
| Lol,I taught myself for the first year,started out with a second hand pole belt,set of pole gaffs and 50' of rope plus the tree climbers companion.If you go back to my first post in this thread,you'll see I advised profesional assistance,but if he wants to do it offered the best advice i can.I treated him like I wish I was treated almost 2 years ago on another forum where I got more shit than help.Ekka reached out and helped me and I'm grateful for that and treeworld,this is a place where you can ask for advice like Scott is asking for and not get flamed.I think a good arborist recomends a pro do it as we have experiance,but I also believe in helping others as best as we can.As I previously posted,we either help him with advice or he goes it alone,which would you rather see?
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