Need some info on cutting down trees while they are on fire

turnedforgood

I am in no way certified at being an arborist.

That being said I need help. I am with a fire department in Southern Illinois and a few time a year we run into a situation that a tree needs to come down while it is on fire (usually more of a smoldering fire than full blown flames). This would be where there is no danger to any property. What I would like is information where I could make a sheet up that shows one way to properly cut down a tree that would work for this type of situation. I understand that there are many variables to this and each tree may be different. But I would like your help. I will answer any questions you may have.

Thank you,

Benjamin

newguy18

Well,it depends on if they're hollow or solid,living or dead,i assume this type of work is more forestry inclinded than residential,i.e forest fires etc.If thats the case then a conventional face cut and back cut should be sufficient,depending on other factors[limb weight,lean,sparing other trees etc.]

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old schooler

turnedforgood

I found this:
Logging eTool: Kinds of Notches
Is this the type of cut you are reffering too?

Eric Frei

Yeah, good link.

Just stay with the easy conventional notch.

Some good info in the PDF's on this page.

Guides to Proper Tree Felling - USA & NZ & BC

Here's info on what not to do.

Angled back cut| backcut| tree felling| back cuts

Beware Expert Village Idiot Drew George Finn| Dangerous Felling Practices

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glennak

As shown on the site you put up Kickback and stalled tree are possible with 45 deg scarves. If you have a 90 deg the tree stays attached to the ground so it is much safer and more accurate. After the tree snaps off the stump you have lost all control and twists and side way movments are possible.
Also when making the back cut a back release is usually safer. If you cut from the back to the front you are along side the tree when it starts to fall and it may start to fall before you expect it to, or you may cut though on side of your hinge. Most accidents happen at this time so this is not the place to be. If you push the tip of the saw though the tree and adjust your hinge to how you want it then work to the back of the tree and leave a small strip. At this stage you can wedge if needed then get ready to move away from the tree cut the strip from the side and leave. This way you are out of the danger zone before the tree starts to move (not always). This is also safer for trees with high enternal pressures that are likely to split.
The other problem is; is it hollow? How deep should you notch and still be in sound wood? Often hard to tell, one way to tell is to push the vertical tip of the bar into the trunk where you want to notch to test soundness then decided how deep to notch and what techique to use.
Hope this is helpful. Vermeer have done a lot of work on this with North American trainig solutions. Maybe contact them.

kel

Hey Ben, My exprience comes from 7 yrs in the Rural Fire Brigade over here in Oz. A few things I'ld suggest concerning before you cut. In 14 yrs as a tree lopper I consider burning trees my greatest exposure to injury.
1- As there's "no danger to property" does it really need to come down with a saw?.... yes, then
2- Make an exclusion zone. (I had only one other inside the radius of estimated tree length.)
3- Seems 80% of the clean ups happen at night so have good lighting/ torch on your cut, so you can watch what its doing, and one shining up the tree so a dedicated, reliable spotter can let you know when you have movement.
4- Cool the area down with water so its comfortable to work. (I use to be a hero and cut it hot to save water) and hard hat with your collar done up snug. (The crew get a lot of mileage reenacting you taking your jacket off after coals have dropped inside.)
5- Do a 360 around the tree to judge lean and/or weight and go with that as your direction of fall. Obviously there's 10 other variables to factor in but those two carry most wieght with my decision making. Use aluminium wedges as opposed to plastic or wood for obvious reasons.
6- Just saying again, I consider burning trees my greatest exposure to potential injury, so take the time to plan who's doing what, what to do if the worst happens (ie trapped under a log/branch) and keep the rubber neckers out of the exclusion zone.
7- Last thought I promise, nominate the chainsaw operator/s and try and get a core 2 or 3 that do all the cutting. Better 2 people get experience cutting 5 trees each as opposed to 10 people cutting 1 tree each. (I thinks)