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Old 4th June 2011, 12:23 PM   #1
Sappling
 
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Default Monterey Brush Cherry

I live in Los Angeles and I planted three Monterey Bay Brush Cherry (Eugenia myrtifolia) plants about eight months ago. About three weeks ago I noticed this strange problem with the leaves. Does anyone recognize what kind of pest this might be (and what to do about it)?

Attached are photos of the whole plant, the top side, and the underside of the leaf.

Thanks!

--Robert
Attached Thumbnails
Monterey Brush Cherry-dsc00886.jpg   Monterey Brush Cherry-dsc00884.jpg   Monterey Brush Cherry-dsc00879.jpg  
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Old 4th June 2011, 12:42 PM   #2
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Default Re: Monterey Brush Cherry

those are scale, they feed on the plant leaves, leaving them disfigured, they will stunt the leaves and if left untreated can kill the plants, I had them on a maple tree last year and the people on this site recommended Malathion, you mix it with water and water the plant with it, the plant absorbs it into its system and the scale are killed as they feed on the leaves. or you can cut back the areas with heavy scale infestation and treat the plant with malathion to kill young scale and the remaining ones
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Old 5th June 2011, 08:56 AM   #3
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Default Re: Monterey Brush Cherry

Thank you!

Have you heard of any treatments that are organic or close to organic? I only would want to use Malathion as a last resort.

Thanks again for your reply.

-Robert
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Old 5th June 2011, 10:23 AM   #4
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Default Re: Monterey Brush Cherry

They're psyllids!

Source:

Quote:
Eugenia Psyllid.

Eugenia psyllid occurs primarily on Australian brush cherry or eugenia (Syzygium paniculatum). It has also been observed on juvenile foliage of New Zealand Christmas tree (Metrosideros excelsus). Adults are mostly dark brown with a white band around the abdomen. Their tiny golden eggs are laid primarily along the edges of young leaves, causing infested leaf margins to glisten in the sun. Nymphs are yellowish with orange-red eyes. Recently hatched first-instar nymphs (called crawlers) settle on new growth and each forms a feeding pit. Settled nymphs resemble a soft scale insect and appear flat when viewed from the lower leaf surface. The upper surface of infested foliage reddens and distorts above these pits. Eugenia psyllid has about three to five generations a year, depending on temperature and host plant suitability.
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Biological Control

Natural enemies, including lady beetles, lacewing larvae, small predaceous bugs, and parasitic wasps, which attack only certain psyllids, provide at least partial control of all the psyllids discussed here. Conserve psyllid natural enemies by using appropriate cultural practices and only low-toxicity, short-persistence pesticides whenever possible. Except for the spottedgum lerp psyllid parasite, the introduced species of natural enemies now occur naturally throughout California; none are available for purchase and release.

Eugenia psyllid is partially controlled by an introduced Tamarixia species of parasitic wasp. However, especially in cooler areas near the California coast, parasite populations often do not increase quickly enough in spring to provide satisfactory control. Regular shearing of new growth to remove psyllid eggs and nymphs in combination with parasite conservation can be effective in managing psyllids infesting eugenia, such as in topiary plantings.

Where pruning or other control methods are planned, inspect plants regularly for new growth, beginning in spring. Also consider regular monitoring for adult psyllids, especially when managing many eugenias. Prune terminals after maximum spring growth appears or about 3 weeks after the first peak in adult psyllid density, which is determined by using sticky traps and counting and recording the number of adult psyllids on a weekly basis as discussed in Monitoring. Leave eugenia clippings as mulch near the shrubs for at least 3 weeks to allow parasites within psyllid nymphs to complete their development and emerge. Eugenia psyllid eggs and nymphs on the cut foliage will die. Consider shearing eugenia tips at about 3-week intervals (and leaving clippings on-site) throughout the period of new plant growth or as long as adult psyllids are abundant. In addition to providing direct control, shearing terminals is the only way of eliminating damaged foliage (aside from waiting for old leaves to drop). No pesticide or other treatment will restore pitted foliage to a healthy appearance.
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Chemical Control

Because beneficials often do not become abundant until after psyllids are common and weather has warmed, supplemental control may be desired in certain situations. However, psyllids are difficult to control effectively with insecticides because they reproduce year-round in much of California and can infest large plants or those with dense canopies, which prevents good spray coverage. Limit use of insecticides to situations where psyllids and their damage cannot be tolerated. In the case of redgum lerp psyllid, the most effective pesticides against this pest (systemic insecticides) can be of limited and variable effectiveness, especially if trees are stressed or already heavily damaged.

Azadirachtin (Azatin, Safer BioNeem), neem oil (Green Light Garden Safe), insecticidal soap (potassium salts of fatty acids, such as Safer), and horticultural oil (an insecticide labeled “narrow range,” superior, or supreme oil, such as Sunspray or Volck) can provide temporary control of psyllids that are directly contacted by the spray. Infested new growth must be thoroughly covered with the insecticide spray. The low toxicity and short persistence of these “organically acceptable” materials does not kill natural enemies that migrate in after the spray has dried, so application of these materials early in the season before natural enemies build up and migrate from nearby unsprayed plants is compatible with later-season biological control. However, an additional treatment may be necessary within several weeks if psyllid populations rebound and the plants produce a new growth flush.

Insecticide Application. Time an insecticide application to kill eggs and young nymphs before damage or psyllids become abundant. Monitor when susceptible new growth or adult psyllids or both become abundant as discussed in Monitoring. Treat soon after a sharp increase in adult numbers is observed on sticky traps or in beat samples, or when significant numbers of eggs are observed on leaves and shoots. Continue monitoring after treatment. If natural enemies as well as psyllids become abundant, delay reapplication and continue to monitor periodically to determine if populations have declined and spraying can be avoided.

Systemic Insecticides. Systemic insecticides are the most practical, effective materials for controlling psyllids that infest large trees. In situations where integrated pest management compatible contact sprays are inadequate, the systemic insecticide imidacloprid (Bayer Advanced Garden Tree & Shrub Insect Control, Merit) is available to both homeowners and professional applicators. It may provide season-long control if applied in late winter or spring before psyllid populations dramatically increase. Imidacloprid can be applied as a foliar spray or soil injection or drench. It can be injected directly into trunks if their diameter is relatively large. Drenching or injecting soil beneath infested plants is probably the best application method, especially when treating hedges, shrubs, or clumped groups of plants.

Imidacloprid applied to soil beneath flowering plants may move to nectar and poison parasites. However, in comparison with an application to soil, spraying foliage can be more toxic to natural enemies and less effective against psyllids. In comparison with injecting or implanting trunks, treating soil avoids mechanically wounding trunks and potentially spreading plant pathogens on contaminated tools. The home-use product is measured into a bucket, diluted with water, and poured onto soil near trunks, as directed on the label. Be aware that imidacloprid application has sometimes contributed to outbreaks of spider mites and certain other pests.

The microbial abamectin (Abacide, Avid) can be injected into trees or sprayed on foliage by licensed applicators. Abamectin is effective against pear psylla, but its effectiveness against psyllid species that infest ornamentals is uncertain.

Carbamates (such as carbaryl), the foliar-sprayed systemic organophosphate acephate (Orthene T, T&O Spray), nonsystemic organophosphates (malathion), and pyrethroids (fluvalinate, permethrin) also can be applied, but these insecticides are not recommended. Spraying these broad-spectrum, more persistent insecticides kills many natural enemies. These materials generally are not as effective in controlling psyllids as imidacloprid discussed above. Persistent insecticides contaminate urban surface water runoff and municipal wastewater because of their use around homes and in landscapes.
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Old 5th June 2011, 02:09 PM   #5
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Default Re: Monterey Brush Cherry

oops.my bad, i thought those things looked like scales, are they related to scale?
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Old 5th June 2011, 04:20 PM   #6
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Default Re: Monterey Brush Cherry

That is really good info on the psyllids Eric!!

According to Wikipedia --

Psyllids or jumping plant lice are small plant-feeding insects that tend to be very "host specific", i.e. they only feed on one plant species (monophagous) or feed on a few related plants (oligophagous). Together with aphids, phylloxerans, scale insects and whiteflies they form the group called Sternorrhyncha, which is considered to be the most "primitive" group within the "true bugs" (Hemiptera). They have traditionally been considered a single family, Psyllidae, but recent classifications divide the group into a total of seven families; the present restricted definition still includes more than 70 genera in the Psyllidae.

Psyllid fossils have been found from the early Permian before the flowering plants evolved. The explosive diversification of the flowering plants in the Cretaceous was paralleled by a massive diversification of associated insects, and many of the morphological and metabolic characters that the flowering plants exhibit may have evolved as defenses against herbivorous insects.

Several genera of psyllids, especially among the Australian fauna, secrete coverings called "lerps" over their bodies, presumably to conceal them from predators and parasites.
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Old 5th June 2011, 04:30 PM   #7
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Default Re: Monterey Brush Cherry

Well, they are similar.
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Old 5th June 2011, 07:17 PM   #8
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Default Re: Monterey Brush Cherry

Aha! Psyllids! Thank you!

Pruning the infected growth would basically remove all the growth I've gotten in the last nine months! So I will get some insecticidal soap and give it a go.

I appreciate your help!

Best wishes,

-Robert
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Old 5th June 2011, 09:26 PM   #9
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Default Re: Monterey Brush Cherry

You guys call that bush a different name to us, but we call it Syzygium paniculatum and it gets hammered here with spyllids to the point that other ssp are used more.


Syzygium australe 'Aussie Southern' is a real nice dense glossy leaved plant to 5m high and gets way less psyllids.

I know these bugs and bushes like the back of my hand, these are lillypilly's native to NSW, the red fruit is edible.

Here's some other info:-

Source:

Quote:
Pimply problems

The lilly pilly psyllid (Trioza eugeniae) is a tiny native insect related to cicadas. The immature psyllids or nymphs feed inside the leaves. They settle in one spot then embed themselves in the leaf, forming a lump or pimple. This is a disfiguring problem and the last thing you want to see on your stylish hedge or topiary. Some lilly pillies are not worried by the pimple psyllid. The most resistant varieties are Acmena smithii and Syzygium luehmannii. Those that most readily show signs of attack are Syzygium paniculatum types including 'Lillyput'. Waterhousea floribunda is also susceptible. Plants in nurseries don't usually show signs of psyllid damage as they are sprayed regularly as a protective measure. As the pest is inside the leaf, contact sprays are not effective. Control is usually gained with a systemic spray such as Confidor.
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Old 6th June 2011, 06:18 AM   #10
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Default Re: Monterey Brush Cherry

Thank you for that extra information.

I'm still going to try a contact spray first before resorting to systemic treatment. I like to eat the cherries off the shrub so I don't want to poison myself!
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