Junipers vs. Cercospora Needle Blight - Surrender or Fight On?

TBm · 23rd September 2010, 03:41 AM

Am I fighting a LOSING BATTLE?
"5-hour Spraying Ordeal" has become a "Career"

Ten years ago I planted 24 Juniper trees in a row to form a wind/dust break. I think they are Rocky Mountain Juniper, purchased from the local Walmart Gardening Dept (which gives you some idea as to my expertise LOL).

I figured they'd require zero maintenance once established, and that was true for years. They grew and flourished, with robust rich green boughs...until about three years ago when they reached full size (about 15' tall). At that time, I began seeing entire boughs turn a golden rust color and die. I began watering and fertilizing, but to no avail.

I live in eastern Nebraska, USA, and have learned that CERCOSPORA NEEDLE BLIGHT is particularly troublesome here for--you guessed it--Juniper trees. And I'm afraid I've compounded the likelihood of infection by planting the trees only 5 feet apart on center. Their retail labeling suggested 8 feet on center, and more recently I've heard 12 feet on center recommended... I planted them "close" because I was desparate to establish a dust brake to protect against a very dusty gravel road near the house. Now I'm desperate to save them for the same reason.

I sprayed them last year (rather haphazardly) with a Copper Sulfate contact solution. The results were poor. This year I purchased a 4-gallon backpack sprayer and have "devoted my life" to spraying very conscienciously--inner and outer foliage, as best I can--with CLEVIS by ProKoz/Dow Chemical, which is a systemic. I've maintained a 10-day spray schedule (occassionally rain has pushed me back as far as 14 days). The chore takes five hours, I have to suit up every time and the whole process is a big pain in the arse - so I'm hoping I don't have to do this forever (gulp).

I seem to have SLOWED the progression, but continue to see small, low, inner branches die off, and some larger mid-height branches, as well. The bottoms of most trees are quite sparse now, and I would like to know if I've lost the battle or not.

Local sources of information have been sketchy and trying to obtain useful information from Clevis representatives has been a WASTE OF TIME: They try to avoid saying anything at all, they seem to know very little, and comments by one guy tend to contradict the comments of the next.

Is anyone here truly knowledgable regarding Cercospora Needle Blight as it applies to Juniper? I need advice on how to save these trees, or whether to give up and cut them down. I also need a better understanding of how a systemic like Clevis is supposed to work. I can provide photos as needed.

Thanks, all.

Brent Ferris · 23rd September 2010, 05:43 AM

Hi I am not familiar with the blight, and know nothing about the pesticide.

The research i did on the blight _ University of Nebraska -- indicates it starts on the lower branches, and works its way out; spreads during wet weather, and can be controlled with a fungicide like Bordeaux mix that includes copper.
They recommend wider spacing on the trees, so removal of every other tree, or judicious removal of infected branches to minimize spread may work in the short term. This also includes cleaning up all fallen needles below the trees -- often an immediate source of re-infection.

They also mention that smooth bromegrass enhances the spread of the blight, and its removal is necessary is any kind of control is possible.

From what you describe, it sounds like you are spraying too much, and with the wrong kind of pesticide. I know Clevis contains copper, but maybe not enough, or in the right form. The advantage of Bordeaux mix is it contains both sulphate and lime, and if the blight is sensitive to high pH -- the lime part of the solution will adversely affect the blight; and similarly with sulphate and sensitivity of the blight to acidic solutions. Since the pesticide contains sulphate, and you see minimal improvement, it suggests the blight is probably sensitive to high pH solutions.
Typically, if the professional avoids an answer -- they either don't know, or they know what you are doing won't work.

For certain, even though you are suited up, the pesticide will likely destroy you before the blight. That much exposure to copper can adversely affect your health, and be highly toxic. Zinc competes with copper for absorption, and can eliminate copper from the body. And zinc is a powerful anti-oxidant and useful for a wide variety of mechanisms within the body, including the fighting of colds. Taking supplemental zinc can be highly beneficial!

Whether you can control the blight is uncertain, but planting another species capable of withstanding the wind and dust (if there is room) is probably the best long term solution. Even deciduous shrubs can become dense enough to force the wind either above or to either side. And there are probably more choices in deciduous vs coniferous.

University of NEbraska writes --

Quote:

Initial infection can occur on any juvenile needles and on previous years' spur needles in the inner crown of the tree during late June and July. Generally all of the needles on a spur shoot become infected, turn bronze-colored, become necrotic and die by late September. These dead shoots drop from the tree in the fall, resulting in the characteristic appearance of infected trees -- the interior of the tree is bare of foliage while the branch ends have healthy, green foliage. Cercospora needle blight tends to start in the lower, inner branches and spread upward and outward.

The black fruiting bodies (sporodochia) of the Cercospora fungus are found on the needles and have a fuzzy appearance (Figure 5). The spores are released from the fruiting bodies from late April through October only during wet weather. There is very little long-distance spread of the spores. Moisture is necessary for dispersal, germination and penetration.
Cercospora needle blight can be successfully controlled by applying a fungicide to protect the susceptible foliage during the infection period. Standard strength Bordeaux mixture (8-8-100) or a liquid copper fungicide are recommended. An initial application in mid-June, followed by a second application in late July is usually adequate. Additional applications may be necessary if frequent rains occur in August and September. Slightly earlier applications may be necessary further south.

Combining Cultural and Chemical Methods for Maximized Cercospora Control
The most effective control against Cercospora needle blight is to properly manage the windbreak. Eliminating smooth bromegrass and thinning crowded, stunted trees, combined with fungicide applications during wet months or seasons should control the disease. Severe infestations may require a two-to-three year effort to bring the disease under control. If Cercospora is prevalent in the neighborhood, planting new windbreaks with evergreens other than cedar or juniper is a wise choice. Pines, spruces and firs are possible alternatives.

Hope this helps. Would have posted a link, but haven't yet figured out how.

TBm · 23rd September 2010, 06:41 AM

Many thanks, TreesHaveNeeds. I am quite familiar with the Univ of Nebraska information you quoted. It helped me early on, but since then I've experienced two years of limited success and am seeking additional advice. Impossible to find a Bordeaux's solution these days. I tried. Removing every other tree would devastate the dustbreak for a couple of years at least, so I'm considering it only as a last resort - though I would like to hear any knowledgeable advice on the subject. At this point, it's almost like a physician consult on a proposed amputation (shudder).

I do very much appreciate your digging up that information in my behalf, and I hope you gained a basic eduction on CNB for your trouble

.

Great Minds DO Think Alike. I've been wondering all summer (mostly while sweatin' and gruntin' inside my JuniperSpraying space suit) if there is a deciduous hedge that would grow fast and tall enough. It would not get trimmed ever, and the natural height would have to be 12 to 15'. The reason I didn't just cut down the Junipers and plant such a hedge this spring is that I hope to sell this house next spring/summer and keeping the existing Junipers healthy and intact provides the best scenario.

On-site assistance by university and county extension agents in non-existant these days, and despite CNB being a real problem here in Nebraska, nobody locally seems particularly knowledgeable... I even talked on-air with the local radio "Plant Talk" personality.

The CLEVIS I'm spraying is recommended for CNB on Juniper, but I'm not sure I'm spraying it correctly.

I'd like to pose a SERIES OF QUESTIONS for anyone truly knowledgeable on this subject. I've sprayed 17 times so far this season, and now understand enought to at least ask some intelligent questions. The first one is:

Q1. WHERE should I spray?
Juniper trees have thick, heavy, flexible boughs with soft needles. It's difficult to spray the inner foliage, but I've been going to great lengths to do just that (as best I can).

With a disease like Cercospora Needle Blight, and a systemic fungicide, I'm thinking there must be some best approach to spraying. For example, should I be concentrating on spraying affected areas (mostly low inner branches), or should I concentrate on spraying the remaining healthy, green needles in the mid and upper portions of each tree?

a. I don't understand how the disease spreads, and

b. I don't understand how a systemic attacks a disease.

If someone can help me understand those two, the best system for spraying should reveal itself...

dcarter · 23rd September 2010, 06:50 AM

My advice would be to call a professional pest control company in your area. You need to 1) Make sure beyond all guess work that it truly is Cercospora Needle Blight 2) Ensure that your cultivar is acceptable to the cultural and chemical remedy you are looking for 3) Find out if there is something that perhaps you don't know about the chemical control-----that you otherwise may never figure out------like "calibration of application equipment is essential to provide adequate water to root zone during application. This product has shown greater efficacy when applied with a minimum of 3 gallons of water per unit of active ingredient over no more than"~ 10 square feet of root area or a certain basal area of tree in inches, etc...

Good Luck with it!, Mike

dcarter · 23rd September 2010, 07:00 AM

Also, Bayer (Like the aspirin) makes some of the best control products for disease on the market these days. Check into thier fungicides, but once again, make sure it's Cercospora----and not spider mites, which are not spiders, but a particular mite that browns out the needles of Blue Pacific Juniper in particular in Florida.

Systemic Fungicides work by being absorped into the structure of the target host, Like antibiotics in humans, in and easy analogy. They will make their way into the plant, and fight the disease from the inside throughout the entire plant. This takes a little longer than contact sprays but is effective over the long run on major infestations or more resistant strains.

you may have to trim the bottom branches in order to get the spray solution where it needs to be. Can't help you without looking up the label of your product which I will probably do later, but you usually have a couple of ways to spray, local (several branches around the disease), entire tree (foliage) or foliage and soil. Soil can be drenched or sprayed. You'll have to know-----main thing is use according to the label. It is a violation of Federal Law to knowling use a pesticide of any type incosistently with it's label.

TBm · 23rd September 2010, 10:15 AM

Thanks, Mike.

I know it's not spider mites. The first diagnosis was "spider mites" but turned out to be a false diagnosis. Last summer I sprayed for spider mites for about a month, until late June, only to find out there never were any. I will look into Bayer products to see if they have anything potent against CNB.

I've read the Clevis label many times and find almost no information on how-to-use it for "ornamentals". It basically just gives the mix proportions.

I understand (thanks) that a systemic fights the disease "from the inside out", and that it's a slower but more sustained and reliable approach. But...I've been spaying consistently for about four months and I'm STILL seeing branches suddenly turn brown. I don't get it. Is four months not long enough for the systemic to take hold?

I'd sure like to know whether just spraying the tree in general will do the trick...without all the reaching around inside. Or must I spray every needle?

Most of the rust-colored trouble occurs at lower, inner branches, but it seems to me the best route to get a systemic defense into the tree's system is through healthy, viable, green needles - which are some distance away in the middle and upper parts of the tree... (HELP)

What route is taken by Cercospora Needle Blight as it destroys a tree? I think the initial infection is airborne, so I don't think it attacks "from the roots upward". But the damage does affect the lowest branches first.

And on the other hand, the rust-colored needles seem to appear at the tip of a branch first, and then the damage works its way back toward the trunk. Damned confusing.

<this infection is well established, affecting the trees for two years before I started spraying>

dcarter · 23rd September 2010, 12:31 PM

Sound like you have a handle on most of the discussion. One reason I recommend Bayer is I've used thier products on resistant strains of disease and insects here as a commercial pest control operator until we sold our business and they were really developing some great, long residual control products.

I recommend a pest control company because they will have access to chemicals that you may not. And, they should have equipment, like tree guns, that can shoot the tops of the trees up to about 60 feet in the air (from the ground).

They will also be able to calculate, calibrate and deliver with really pretty impressive accuracy, the right amount of product, in the right amount of water (it's not just a concetration thing, it also deals with delivery of the product into the plant) and any adjuvants necessary.

One thing we had to do with "fire blight" on red tip photinia here is cut all the limbs back, leaving no leaves, rake all the leaves up (all of them) and soil drench, then spray entire surface of plant bark. And that only allows control, the blight is still there, it's just in remission in the plant so to speak, so you no longer see the effects in the plant leaves. And you have to continually treat after that and generally there is the interval and rate issue (every 7 -14 days, at the highest rate of product, etc.) to gain control.

The sad part, eventually everyone just quit planting red tips becuase of the labor intensive management to have a decent looking plant. I hope it is not coming to that for your Junipers.

Not sure if Heritage (a Bayer product) is available in your state, and I'm not sure if Junipers are labeled as a plant that can be sprayed on your site. And I'm not sure if Cercospora is a disease listed on the label. (lot of unknowns, because I'm getting older) But it is a very good product when used in accordance with the labeling. Has a fairly fast result, less frequent apps, better residual , but is ABSOLUTELY LETHAL TO APPLE TREES!!!!! But if that's not a concern it's worth looking into.

I hope some of this has been helpful.

One other thing, you said they seem to be effected from the lower branches. It might be worth noting that typically trees die from the tip down. Hard to say without pics, but your probably still fighting the good fight with trees that are holding on. Not sure I'd throw in the towel just yet. And, you might get a pest company to spray once or twice to help you get control, then manage yourself to save some money.

Brent Ferris · 23rd September 2010, 04:11 PM

I'm glad DCarter was able to give you some advice on pesticides. I suggested Bordeaux mix, not just for its efficacy, but also as a product you can mix up yourself, as long as the garden and farm supply store carries copper sulphate and the building store carries hydrated lime.

I suggested cleaning up the old needles and removing the lower infected branches because the spores are spread during wet weather, thru wind, and splash action and the removal of the infected material would minimize re-infection. While the spores don't come up from the roots, they do spread from infected needles on the ground. HOw a disease affects a given plant is pretty much up to the disease, and some have several methods of attack, some are very specific. ANd how the disease spreads often ensures correct identification of a specific disease. That this particular disease affects the lower branches first is quite reasonable -- this is where the dampest area stays longest. Once established, it can start with new growth (tips) because they will have the highest moisture content,

While Removal of every other tree seems draconian, it might well save the remaining trees. Wwhile losing 50% of the trees will allow some wind/dust to come thru, it is a big improvement on no trees. It is usually better to have an imperfect hedge -- ie some wind/dust coming thru - than no entry. After all, if you wanted no wind and no dust, a solid wood fence with a mural of Junipers on your side would be easier to maintain. If you really want to slow down the wind, a barrier with openings of between 35% (no less)and 50% (no more) is best. More than 50% opening, the wind goes right thru and little dampening effect is noticed; less than 35% and the hedge acts like a solid barrier, and the wind goes up and over.
Additionally, removing every other tree, means the remaining trees have 50% more water, and more nutrients available to them then when all the trees are present.
Thinning also enhances drying out of the foliage, and since this disease spreads in damp wet conditions, thinning minimizes how long the foliage remains damp, reducing the spread of the disease.

I did learn something about this particular disease, including the symptoms you described matched what the info said. Thank you! Although I am not explicitly familiar with this disease, its symptoms and treatment are very similar to several other blights that affect trees in my area. I suspect you thought the University didn't give complete info, yet I found the info quite good, compared to what is often found on non-university, non-forest extension sites.

For deciduous cover I would try for a shrub such as Currant (Ribes), Honeysuckle (Lonicera), Privet (Ligustrum), Kolkwitzia or a shrubby tree. Rhamnus species, although not well liked by many are very tough small trees, or perhaps Russian Olive (Elaegnus). The shrubs usually grow no higher than 15-20 feet, Rhamnus about 20-25 feet, Russian-Olive up to 30 ft. They are able to withstand dry soils and windy conditions. They certainly won't grow to maturity in 1-2 years, but most of them do have life expectancies of at least 20 years,

Hope this helps.

TBm · 24th September 2010, 10:27 AM

dcarter/Mike and TreesHaveNeeds ==

Thanks for your very helpful posts.

Having read all your comments and "slept on it" I think there are only two reasonable choices:
1. Remove every other tree
2. Cut them all down

1. Remove every other tree
Interesting point about a 35% gap being better than no gap at all. In this case, I'll have a solid 50% gap for the first year anyway. After that who knows. The gaps might get even bigger if the remaining trees dwindle...argh. Much as I hate the prospect of an amputation like this, I think it's probably the only hope I have of giving up my "part-time spraying career".

Before the trees were fully grown and intermingled, they were amazingly healthy. Whacking every other tree would introduce sunlight, air and the healthy dryness you recommend, THN.

2. Cut 'em all down and let God sort 'em out
I'm tempted to take them all out, but it sure wouldn't be pretty. And the prospect of trying to plant a desciduous shrub in the same place sounds like one awful "root busting ordeal" using only a pick, shovel and digging bar.

I realize you're both speculating on my behalf. I appreciate it. With that understanding, what do you think the answer to this is: Assume I remove every other tree, giving the remaining trees ample room to breathe. Do you think I'll still have to continue spraying and pruning and ShopVac-ing fallen needles? OR is there a decent chance that the infection will give up?

Did either of you come across information as to how long it takes for a systemic to overcome an infection like Cercospora Needle Blight? I'll have enough Clevis left to spray them 6 or 8 times next season (that's about two months beginning at the first deciduous leaf buds). If I could remove half the trees AND spray hell out of the remaining emancipated specimens, maybe the "CNB nightmare" would be over...? Maybe?

I am NOT going to spray these trees every ten days FOR EVER.
IF that's what's necessary, even after a 50% amputation,
somebody please warn me now.

...I'll try to post a few pictures here shortly....

TBm · 24th September 2010, 10:50 AM

Here's a PICTURE of what most of them look like today. Thinned out at the bottoms and continuing to lose the lowest boughs - but at a slower rate than at the beginning of the Summer.

I cropped off the top vertical branches (they're naturally tear-drop shaped) thinking it would force the trees to expend more resources in their lower regions. Not sure if it's working, but no ill effects so far.

They were mulched for the first seven of ten years (when healthy). I removed all the mulch and the fallen needles upon learning that Cercosprora Needle Blight was the issue. A Nebraska Forestry agent later told me that was unnecessary, but the U of NE info said to do it (per your comments TNH), so I did it.

These are planted on a North-to-South line, too - which happens to be the worst possible arrangement for causing Cercospora Needle Blight...! sheeesh.

Brent Ferris · 24th September 2010, 05:06 PM

Yearly pruning and removal of fallen needles is a good course of action, even if the fungus is overcome., My experience with the fungus is it is seldom fully eradicated, DCarter may be able to tell you different.

SHould you decide to plant deciduous shrubs (having removed all the Junipers) there would be no real need to remove the stumps -- unless you love that kind of work, and if you do, a mattock is a very handy tool to procure for the job -- the deciduous shrubs could be planted between the conifers, and as the conifers decay, provide nutrients for the new plants.,

TBm · 26th September 2010, 08:51 AM

THN ==

Planting deciduous shrubs between remaining juniper stumps is exactly what I was thinking. Like you, I would just let the new hedge engulf the remaining stumps. Do you have some method in mind that would simplify planting the shrubs while the Junipers are still intact? I would LOVE to take that approach, but I think it'll be hard diggin' while standing upright with ample elbow room. The prospect of digging between and beneath existing Junipers sounds impossible UNLESS you're about to recommend some ingenius method (please!!!).

My concern about the roots is based on my assumption that those ten-year-old junipers, 15 feet tall and just 5 feet apart must have established one AWFULLY DENSE root system(!). Trying to dig planting holes through that with only hand tools sounds like a killer...

If I go this route, I'm hoping I can plant each new shrub at the exact center between juniper stumps, where I hope existing roots are the least dense. That would locate the shrubs 5 feet apart, just as the Junipers are (or were). See 5-foot rule* below.

Thanks for your shrub recommendations in an earlier post. I'm sure my choices will be limited by what grows well here in Nebraska (don't want to repeat the Juniper mistake) but if you're willing, I'd appreciate your further advice:

I hope to find a fast-growing hedge with a maximum height of 12 to 15 feet. You wrote:
"...a shrub such as Currant (Ribes), Honeysuckle (Lonicera), Privet (Ligustrum), Kolkwitzia or a shrubby tree. Rhamnus are very tough small trees, or perhaps Russian Olive (Elaegnus). The shrubs usually grow no higher than 15-20 feet, Rhamnus about 20-25 feet, Russian-Olive up to 30 ft."

Any hedge/shrub that grows taller than 15 feet would turn into a MONSTROSITY

but I would enjoy freakin' out the neighbors (heh heh).

The BIG QUESTION: From among your suggestions above, is there one shrub/hedge that would:
1. grow quickly
2. max out at 12 to 15 feet
3. * fill in and remain healthy when planted in a row, five feet apart
4. provide a tough dense summer foliage
5. not be too delicate to stand up to intense west sun
6. stand up to very dusty conditions occasionally during Summer months

Maybe the Privet?
Thanks

Brent Ferris · 26th September 2010, 06:04 PM

The shrubs I suggested should all grow in Nebraska - according to growing zones. Both Privet and Honeysuckle, once established 1-2 years typically grow 12-24 inches per year, sometimes more, both will withstand intense sun if get watered, and dust? hard to say - depends on how much, and what wind speed. Take a look at what others have, and judge from there. Lots of dust will suffocate any foliage; washing it off lessens the problem. The privet tends to grow up, the honeysuckle tends to grow wider. Both will need pruning.

To plant between the junipers, probably a bit offset - like 6" to 12" in front of or behind will help with the digging. A mattock (the head looks like an axe at one end, and a hoe at the other, tough steel) and a long handled solid tang shovel work well. Sharpen both so you can almost shave with them, and the roots should have little resistance. It'll still be a job, but doable. The mattock and shovel should cost around $40-50 Cdn each, and last a long time. If you have a sawzall, the Milwaukee Axe blades 9 or 12 inches long can also make life easier -- unless you hit a stone.

If the juniper stumps are only 10 years old, that makes the stumps 6-8" diameter at the base? Just cut around around and pop them out, should come out fairly easily. Recommend steel toed boots with steel shanks - if the mattock misses, you'll want the steel toes, and putting pressure on the shovel, the steel shanks saves your arches.

Good luck!

pcarborist · 27th September 2010, 12:50 AM

Staggering your planting rather than planting in a row, will provide a more effective windbreak. A species I recommend is Siberian peashrub (Caragana arborescens , a tough, durable tall shrub that I know is commonly used in the Mid-west as a windbreak.

Brent Ferris · 28th September 2010, 05:46 AM

Pea shrub would also be a good choice, as long as you get the real shrub, and not the weeping variety, that usually breaks at the graft within 5-10 years.

dcarter · 29th September 2010, 12:27 PM

I've been away for a couple days, but I just read through the last few posts. Treehaveneeds is absolutely on the money here with regard to eradication issues. I don't know of a disease that is easily eradicated and some are never. There are some products that will lend complete control with one application, but that's usually when the disease is in early stages. There are some grass diseases (rusts, spots, etc.) that can be treated with simple applications of Nitrogen to the soil, but with ornamentals I know of none that ever work that easily.

I like your plan to thin. I think it will help you get a handle on managing what you have left. The wind/sun soil exposure is a great cultural management tool (even aerifying is an option sometimes).

Like what you're doing...Good Luck with it all, come back and let us know how it turns out.---Mike

ps--one thing we've found here: If we have a layer of soil with clay under it where the roots (and everything else) have trouble penetrating, we are able to apply gypsm pellets and over time they will loosen the clay until the fine hair like roots can get through it, following the nitrogen vertically and they bust it eventually. Also, of worthy note, might be to check your soil pH, never hurts to know if your growing in perfect conditions or less than perfect, most county extension offices of your state Ag Dept will do this test for free.

TBm · 1st October 2010, 06:04 AM

Mike, THN and PCarborist ==

I appreciate every syllable. Thank you.

Haven't invested in a mattock yet, but tried removing the two existing stumps. NO DICE! I spent an hour with pick, shovel and my "Hammer or Thor" digging bar. I have concluded, "Tough roots!" I finally drove the digging bar straight down like a wedge to split the 18" tall stumps into quarters. They're still intact. Yikes.

Armed with all the good information and advice gleened here, I talked yesterday with: manufacturer(s) of CLEVIS fungicide, wholesaler of CLEVIS, state forestry agent and a local arborist/tree service:

MFRS:
CLEVIS packaging bears the names Dow Agro Sciences and also Pro KOZ (a French firm). Both companies deny manufacturing the product (apparently now defunct) and each suggests I talk with the other! Also, neither company has a single product specialist on hand to advise regarding application/use. Nobody knows anything about anything. Can I use the word "BULLSH_T!" here?

Wholesaler who sold me CLEVIS:
At time of sale, told me I could spray every 30 days. More BS! Label says 7-10 or 10-14 days depending on which label you read (confusing mess). Also when pressed yesterday, the guy now tells me the "systemic action" only travels one to two inches from the point of contact, and will only protect that particular needle cluster. ARRRRRRGH!

Forestry Agent
was helpful, in line with the online literature already available. He suggested LIQUID COPPER fungicide sprayed only twice a year (mid-June and late-July) with a possible third spraying in late September - if August and September are particularly wet. He says I'm nuts to spray every ten days, and should consider cutting them all down. He says Rocky Mountain Juniper are incredibly susceptable to CNB. NE Forestry recommends never planting them here, ever.

I have sprayed SEVENTEEN TIMES this year! And I'm still losing the battle...slowly. He agreed that removing every other tree should help a lot. He also clued me in to the NE Natural Resource Districts program. There's an agent for my area who (apparently) will assist in choosing the best windbreak shrub for my situation. They publish a list of what's known to work here. I'll run your suggestions past him.

Local Tree Service:
An AMAZINGLY HELPFUL woman there told me the past three years have been extremely wet, and are the worst they've ever seen in terms of promoting CNB. She said my results are much better than most (so I feel a little better about the 17 sprayings...).

She confirmed that her firm uses CAMELOT (a liquid copper contact fungicide).

AMAZING FACT! She told me to spray Lysol disenfectant on my pruning shears every time I cut and remove an infected branch. If not, I am spreading the disease to the next branch I cut! Sure enough, many of my currently infected branches are recently pruned branches! DAMN!

SO THE PLAN IS:

1. Cut out every second tree (some of those are the stronger ones, but that's the case no matter which end I start at).

2. Get a liquid copper fungicide for next year, and alternately spray that and the remaining CLEVIS until I run out of CLEVIS. I hope I can find something with a 30-day spray cycle...

3. Talk to the NRD agent to see what shrub to plant, if any. Money is extremely tight, and the house is to be sold soon, so keeping the Junipers alive is preferable to starting over with a "tiny twig" shrub planting that won't block any dust for years to come. The junipers run north-south with full western sun, so I might be able to plant the shrub a couple of feet to the west of the juniper line, as you guys suggest. I'll tell you what the NRD agent says, and put up "sad pictures" of the post-amputation tree line.

Ugh

pcarborist · 1st October 2010, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Money is extremely tight, and the house is to be sold soon, so keeping the Junipers alive is preferable to starting over with a "tiny twig" shrub planting that won't block any dust for years to come.

Dirr describes the growth rate of a Sib. peashrub as "medium to fast".

Brent Ferris · 1st October 2010, 07:27 PM

I would skip the Clevis, utilize the liquid copper fungicide. Sorry I didn't tell you about sterilizing your pruning equipment with every cut - 50 % bleach and water works as well, just need to oil equipment at end. Thought you were just spraying, not trimming,

While ideally every 2nd tree is the way to go, nature seldom gives you that choice. Won't look as symmetrical, but take out the weaker tree on the "every other plant" scenario, and leave the stronger trees, Taking out the strong ones and leaving the weak ones isn't a great idea.

But finally, if the house is going to be sold soon, and money is tight, is there any point to all this effort? The new owner may not like the hedge at all, and rip everything out. If you're going to stay, do all you can, but doing this for the next owner -- unless you know what they intend to do.... seems like a waste of money and effort.

PS If you are staying, a sharpened mattock does a superior job of cutting roots. If I was closer, I would be happy to stop by, but the commute would bankrupt me.

silentoak · 4th October 2010, 05:13 PM

Just found this thread.

Why is there no undergrowth where the hedge is? Was the hedge "thicker at a certain point or Is a herbicide used ?

Forgive me for being double blunt, but isn't it safer and more effective to pour a systemic compound ?

How about a mulch layer, junipers love acid.

Improving the place of growth is half the battle.

2 cents.

TBm · 7th October 2010, 01:58 AM

I didn't check email for a couple of days. Sorry to be slow in responding. The junipers look "very clean and blue green" right now. No obvious new dead boughs. We had first frost a couple of nights back (and daytime 70s now). So I guess (hope!) the CNB has quit for the year...

I had a long first talk with the NRD agent for my county, who will try to stop by at end of week or early next week. He says cutting out every other tree will not help at all, and thinks I'm wasting my time in keeping the trees alive (which aligns with your comments about potential buyers). He says, "There is not one known example of a Rocky Mountain Juniper surviving on its own in the entire state of Nebraska." I sprayed these things 17 times(!) this year. Mine are diminished but still alive - there's a guy across town with a line of completely "golden" examples. Not sure if they are (or were) Rocky Mtn Juniper, but every one of his recently-planted trees is dead as a door nail.

So I'm doing well by comparison, but I am not willing to continue taking these "five-hour chemical showers" every ten days, and NRD says if I reduce my spraying schedule the trees will croak faster...

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