European hornbeam problem

hunter77

Last fall, we planted an european hornbeam and this spring, it only went to leaf about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up. The top is showing buds but they have not gone to leaf. A few other more mature hornbeams in the area are exhibiting the same leaf pattern. Anyone have any idea what is going on? Thank you in advance for your help!

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Eric Frei

Usually water related when the the top does that.

Get one of those bare sticks and scrape the bark to see if it is alive or dead beneath.

You planted it so you should know how deep the root ball was. Carefully dig a small hole down to the bottom of the root ball and see how moist it is down there. Keep away from the trunk and do as little damage as possible to roots.

Light or infrequent watering might not have penetrated to the bottom of the root ball. Also what is the native soil, well draining sandy etc?

So the issue is water, if it were drowning with too much water we'd see some lower leaf discolouration so I do not think it is over watering.

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hunter77

Thanks for the reply. I live in columbus ohio usa and we had our wettest ever april and may on record this year. if they were keeping records in noah's day, we probably wouldn't have beaten it...but we would have been close!! our soil is a well draining sandy loamy soil. i put the hose on soaker and leave it at the base of the tree for about an hour 4 to 5 times a week. i realize that these trees need a year and a half to two years to establish so i have been watering it frequently. i was thinking it may be another problem since i have spotted more mature hornbeams with the same problem. one in particular was growing between two other hornbeams of the same maturity. thanks again for your thoughts!

Garry Brockley

Generally Carpinus betulus require a pre-emptive treatment with wide range insecticide and if possible a systemic fungicide, to prevent the attack from aphids and the development of fungus diseases, which generally happen after a mild and damp season.

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Brent Ferris

I agree with Eric that it is probably water related.
And now that the wet spring has come and gone, the question remains how deep does the water penetrate the soil with a soaker hose left on for 1 hour. Only a soil pit can tell you for sure. Wait about 4-5 hours after turning off the water, and dig down and see how deep the water penetrated,
Soaker hoses -- known for conserving water, and delivering modest volumes to the area they water - don't give a lot of water in an hour, IMHO. And the depth the water penetrates to is the maximum depth the roots can exist in. If this depth is 1 -2 inches down, all roots below this will die. Feeder roots will multiply like crazy in the top horizons, and the tree will become less windfirm.

Longer, deeper waterings are the answer. Soaker hoses may still work, but will need to be on longer -- I expect --guessing-- overnight, perhaps 24 hours one time per week, more often during extreme droughts.

The initial question of why did the top die could be related to one of two other events.
Toronto also had a very wet spring, and most of the trees were delayed for the opening of buds for leaves and flowers, and the the branches seem much more brittle this year than other years.
I believe the soil was saturated after winter, and I suspect the excess rain created a worse flooding of the soil, and a lack of oxygen within the soil, so that the roots suffered -- possibly many of them dying, and root pressure (needing oxygenated soil to sustain the action) was not readily available.
Some trees depend on the roots to push water to the buds(prob the 3rd wave of trees opening), some open the buds and suck water up, starting the process(prob the earliest leafing trees), still others have a combination of the two(prob the 2nd wave of trees). Certainly a deprivation of oxygen in the soil would compromise the action of almost all trees (except those that can tolerate low oxygen levels, eg Alder, Larch, Black Spruce etc)

I would expect the European Hornbeam to be in the 3rd wave of trees to open their buds in the spring. The opening times appear to be regulated by low temperature limits. So our (Toronto) earliest opening trees are Norway Maple, quickly followed by Silver Maple, then Birch, Poplar, Red and Manitoba Maples, and then Sugar Maple, Elms, etc. The first limit appears to be about 10 dg C. (or more) for an unspecified number of hours - but at least 12-18 over several days to get things going.
The temperature may have been right for the European Hornbeam to get started in midApril to early May, with the buds wanting to open, but the roots being unable to get water to the top part of the crown. The lower crown may have been able to get some water and proceeded to open, and thus suck more water from the root zone and keep going.
THis is all based on personal observation over several years, is mostly conjecture, with some basis in facts and stuff I have read, and tied in with the weather I observed this year and the results in the trees I have worked in., I certainly value other peoples' comments.


There is another possibility for the top not opening. I have seen this more with flower buds, but it can happen with leaf buds if the weather is severe enough. As buds, buds are tough and can withstand amazing changes in climate. BUt once they start to open until the leaves flush out, they are incredibly more delicate. If the buds had started to open, and the temperature dropped to or below freezing (1 dg can be enough if the plant is at its northern limit) for at least an hour one night during this time (and we had conditions like that), the top buds can be killed (More exposure does a better job). The excess rain would keep soil and the lower strata of the tree warmer, but the upper parts could be subject to frost. How high the warmth would extend would depend on the soil temperature, the warmth of the rain, the coldness of the night air and the length of time exposed to the cold temperatures and if there was any wind. I do not know how to do that calculation; I am sure some do.

Typically for this effect to happen, the top buds, closest to the sun start to open first, and as warmth gets closer to the ground the lower buds open. THis is easily seen in the Maples that open early in the spring, since the flower buds open first. And I have witnessed the flower buds starting to wave stamens, and then killed by a frost, while the lower buds have not opened -- or are protected by (relatively ) warm ground temperatures.
This year, with the excess rain, the lower buds would be warming first, and then be protected by warm ground temperatures, and the upper buds would open later, likely a result of poor root pressure, and could be killed by frost, or even near frost with a strong cold wind.

I agree, the answer is a bit wordy. Eric's had the short answer; mine is longer.

And the other comment I have, is European Hornbeam of the Genus Ostrya or Carpinus?

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Victor Lindsay

Too much water or too little water will display the same symptoms. If other trees are displaying same symptoms, this would lead me to abiotic factors. Send samples to the lab, that way you're not guessing.

hunter77

And the other comment I have, is European Hornbeam of the Genus Ostrya or Carpinus?

Carpinus.

Are any of these conditions recoverable?

Thanks again.

Brent Ferris

So the tree is Carpinus betulus, hardy to zone 4 and would need a substantial frost to kill the buds - like several hours, 3-4 dg below freezing. If you can not recall such an event, the culprit will be the heavy, continuous rainfall and the elimination of oxygen in the soil.,
For this year, do as Eric suggested and scrape one of the branches to see if it is green (alive) or brown, brittle -- dead. If it is alive, the tree may recover, and only time will tell.
For the future, should overly wet springs become normal, if the drainage of surface water can be enhanced to minimize penetration this could work in favour for the tree in the spring. Of course, the action would have to be reversed once the rainy season is over, to ensure the tree could take in summer rains. If you can figure out how to do this, please share it with us.

If heavy frost is a problem, the fruit farmers sometimes use smudge pots, or fine sprinkling to protect the flower buds - but this is costly, and can also be damaging. Good air drainage can sometimes mitigate the problem - consider cold air to flow like very thick molasses.

__________________
My business: Tree Pruning and Removals -- Strump Removals -- Advice -- Consulting -- Arborist Reports
If you want an honest opinion, call Brent Ferris...because, Trees want to Live Too !
We do great jobs, even in small yards.

Free Estimates Oakville to Oshawa - North to Bradford (Will travel further if cost of travelling covered)

hunter77

Thanks all for your help, expertise and advise. I really appreciate it!!!!