Damaged Dogwood Branch

deweydiablo

Hello all,

I have a Dogwood in our backyard, about 20 feet tall. About a week ago, we noticed a branch was split. The tree is showing signs of budding, including the damaged brach. Normally I would remove the damaged branch, but this one comprises about 33% of the tree that faces our yard. As you can see the branch actually split in the middle. I was wondering if I could wrap the split area and pull both sides back together. Would it heal itself? Any other suggestions to possibly keep this branch. Thanks.

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newguy18

First off welcome and second you could prune it back to where it comes off of the leader[at the union] so you can keep the other one or have an arborist drill and install threaded rod and nuts to hold it togther but i'm not sure many do this practice anymore. your best bet is to remove the branch while its small so the tree can heal.

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old schooler

Treelore

Can't see the pics!

Eric Frei

Just cut ot off neat the next largest branch as shown, cut properly though, no bark tearing and correct angles etc.

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Treelore

By using stainless steel bolts or threaded rod and some soft malleable cable with picture eye hooks or small lags you may be able to screw that piece back together and support it from higher in the tree. Definitely worth a shot before removal of the limb especially with ornamentals as they are so valuable. If in time you see it is not taking, refer back to previous posts for best removal method of limb. I have had success with bracing torn limbs like this nearly 6 weeks after the tear so anything is possible.

treeseer

yes removing it would be a waste.

Eric Frei

Hope Dendro didn't overlook this.

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osb_mail

This by no means is a small branch for dogwood I might even consider this a mature tree or at least close . Dogwoods usally dont get much over 20 feet depending on the type .It might be worth trying to save the branch by reducing and bolting it might be a fun do it yourself project . Reduce a little bolt it through and see if the branch live if not cut it off you .Would not be out more than a few bucks and some time .

treeseer

thanks eric for blowing up the picture; dendro's peepers don't peep like they useta without his hand lens.

even so, a shred of intact cambium can grow, and even torn cambium can graft and reconnect. if braced the path for circulation would be less strained--except for the hole.

A 1/4", .5cm bolt should do. or could use 1/8" cable and wirestop fasteners. first you could spiralwrap some arbortie further out the branch and guy it back to the stem, aka a soft support system.

why did the branch break?

Eric Frei

Looks like it was severely weighted, looks like an over extended branch anyway, I'd say snow/ice coz the break looks straight down not twisted as wind usually does. And that's a bare branch (no leaves) so likely it could have been frozen brittle too.

Also, look at the trunk going in the ground on pic 1, this things buried.

Look at the form of the other trees around too in the pics ... no formative pruning anywhere I can see.

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deweydiablo

I am not sure why the branch broke. I am not sure when it broke either, some time within the past two months I am pretty sure. We bought the house about 4 years ago, and the previous owner was a widow and I think she let the home go a few years prior to selling it to us. She moved to Florida. The property is about 8 acres and has a whole bunch of unique things growing around. Tree wise, there are over a hundred. When we first moved in, I had a tree company come out and look around. They gave us a price to do work on the property, the total bill for pruning around the property was over $20,000 We had about a dozen fruit trees, these two dogwoods, and a crab apples pruned and addressed. I think they did the best that they could with the dogwood, but I do not really know that much about what "could be done". We since have been working on some ourselves. The area around the dogwoods was completely over grown, and I have been working to clear it out and get in under control. There are about 4 wild cherries growing right behind the dogwoods, and they all flower in early spring, quite beautiful. The base of the tree only has about and inch or two of mulch, and no additional ground added. That was they way it was when we bought the property. I very much appreciate the advice that members take the time to give. I am hoping to work on this branch this weekend, and maybe I can post some of the other things that need done.

osb_mail

20 grand in tree work wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Eric Frei

$20K, I'll come micro sew that branch together forget the bolts!

Holy Dooley's, that's even cover airfares and freight from Australia.

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osb_mail

20 grand to prune some a 12 fruit trees A few crabs and some dogwoods . Well in that case cut them all down . For that price you could have probably 4 times that many trees planted . They must have gave you a bid for lifetime of care for your trees . Yeah now it makes sense 12 fruits trees and some ornamentals lifetime care bill =$20,000 dollars

deweydiablo

I meant 20K for the whole property. We spent about 1500 on the fruit tress, dogwoods, crab apple, and a few other things. I think I was over charged, but I haven't brought my self to search out a qualified tree person since we had that work done.

Eric Frei

Well, you in a safe place now to get some advice.

With that sort of volume you might want to learn how to do a fair bit yourself, seems many trees are easily reached with pole pruners etc.

Also you dont always prune fruit trees like you do ornamental trees.

Just ask and check out the place, in this forum there's lots of info about all sorts of stuff pertaining to trees.

Tree Information, facts and online seminars (sub forum) - Tree World

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redstree

If the loss of that branch would destroy the profile of the tree then I would try to save the limb. I have had good luck putting trees damaged by wind or ice/snow back together again.

Since Dogwood, Cornus floridia, is a hard wood that has excellant screw holding capability I would first pull the limb back into position with a light cable and then install several galvanised or stainless steel wood screws or threaded rod depending upon the actual diameter. When the screws or rod is installed be sure to install one screw at each end of the split to prevent the split from lengthening, then install more along the length of the split, depending upon how long the split is. Since the dogwood is so hard it is important to be sure to pre-drill each hole 1/16"(1.6mm) undersized before threading in the screws or rod. By threading in the supporting screws instead of using nuts and washers you damage less of the cambium layed of the branch.

Good luck. As others have said. If it does not work you can always cut it off later. But I think it is definitely worth trying to save it if it is an important branch.

If you are looking for a different arborist in your area you can always go to the ISA, International Society of Arborculture, web site and check for members of their organization. International Society of Arboriculture

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playfordtree

Question from "out of left field"

Can you put some PVA type of woodworking glue in the crack before you bolt it together, to give the join some extra strength?

Would it work?, or would it create extra problems?

Has anyone tried this before?

(no, i'm not under the influence)

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Therrin

Wood glue, Yeah! Oooh! and dowels too. Pin it back together like they did with that rec climber's broken back.


Speaking of using woodglue... can we use that epoxy-like wood filler compound stuff that's sandable?

(me neither Playford )

playfordtree

Me thinks i smell a hint of sarcasm in your answer Therrin?

Look, it's probably a stupid question, but someone has to ask them.
Think of me as "The stupid question guy".

Seriously though, do you think it would work, or just be a waste of time?
The tree is made out of wood, we're trying to give the strongest join possible, the join will be clamped by bolts.

Just trying to "think outside the square"

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treeseer

re glue, maybe the added strength would outweigh the possibility of speeding decay. maybe not.

if the bolts will hold it rigid, I'd skip the glue.

playfordtree

Why?

-Risk of infection?

-Could interfere with wound stitching?

-Wouldn't provide any structural benefit?

-Hasn't been done before?

-Just doesn't sound right?

-I'm an Arborist not a carpenter?


Guy, do you know if anyone has experimented with glue when repairing small/large failures?

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treeseer

-Risk of infection?
yes, shutting off air and light may speed decay.

-Could interfere with wound stitching?
yes if it is applied near the cambium

-Wouldn't provide any structural (needed) benefit?
If the bolts are strong enough, what is the use of overkill?

-Hasn't been done before?
i'm sure it has

-Just doesn't sound right?
makes sense if flex needs to be lessened

Guy, do you know if anyone has experimented with glue
no but that does not mean much

playfordtree

-Risk of infection?
yes, shutting off air and light may speed decay.

Wouldn't closing the wound shut off air and light anyway?


-Wouldn't provide any structural (needed) benefit?
If the bolts are strong enough, what is the use of overkill?

What if the bolts aren't strong enough? it's a pretty savage looking tear.


-Just doesn't sound right?
makes sense if flex needs to be lessened

When does flex need to be lessened?


Guy, do you know if anyone has experimented with glue
no but that does not mean much

Do you think it's worth experimenting with?

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redstree

My first reaction to the use of glue is most glues require a fairly dry wood to adhere. Live wood is necessarily wet so I do not think that glue would be of benefit.

The glue would act as a barrier, much like the compartmentilization that happens whenever a tree is wounded. It would certainly prevent transfer of nutrients across the glue line.

If glues were available that would adhere and cure in the cool moist environment inside the tree it would certainly be worth the effort to do some research into their use. There are so many questions that need to be answered; risk of infection, interference with the formation of wound wood, mechanical strength, flexibility to move with the tree, to name just a few.

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