cutting back japanese blueberry

jdvm

We have planted a hedge of japanese blueberry (elaeocarpus decipiens). The plants are about 8-9 feet tall and are 5 feet apart. How severely can I "top" the plants so that they spread to form a hedge more quickly. Ideally, we would eventually like to wind up with a 7-8 foot dense hedge.
thanks,
John

treeseer

Monrovia says: "Excellent street, lawn or park tree; bronzy new growth then glossy green foliage. Ornamental effect from older leaves turning bright red before dropping. Numerous tiny scented white flowers; blue-black olive-like fruit in winter that won't stain sidewalks when crushed. Evergreen. Full sun. Moderate-growing to **40 to 60 feet tall, 20 to 30 feet wide**."

Do you see a conflict between your goals and the plant's goals? To keep this tree 5-6', you will have to cut it often and severely. Maybe another species will meet your goals with less work and expense.

If you must keep them, they need to be cut well below the 5-6' mark, to allow for growth. If you attach a picture you might get more help.

__________________


Guy Meilleur | Forensic Arborist | Better Tree Care

jdvm

Gee, thanks for the quick info. So it looks like we're going to have a higher hedge. That's OK. And, reading between the lines, it doesn't sound like it will hurt to cut the tops out of the trees to a height of about 5 feet to get them to spread.
John

Ekka

We have a similar tree here called Blueberry ash

Elaeocarpus reticulatus

This is one of the few tree species that readily accepts a good topping and whacking!

Now left unchecked it grows to a tree alright, maybe the biggest I have seen is 40'

Problem is the stem diameter and roots get quite thick, even when hedged over time the stems get like 1' dia so I dont know where exactly you have them planted but some people here put them in narrow retaining walls against a fence ... sure disaster.

The other thing you need to consider is hedge trimming the tops is hard work especially when you go past shoulder height.

Working off ladders is dangerous and by OHS rules not allowed for hedge maintenance. That means scaffold or painters planks. Starting to see the troubles in having a species that wants to grow past it's "hedge height".

I have removed rows of these in unit complexes for that exact reason and suggest they replant with something that only grows 2m high. We have an Australian syzygium (lillypilly) called Aussie Boomer (PBR licenced plant) that is ideal and grows to 2m high but is bushy yet compact.

That's called smart gardening, think ahead, your hedge wants to grow to 60', in summer you'll be trimming it every month unless you fall of the ladder early.

Plant 6 Syzygium Aussie Boomer pBr

__________________

Free Tree and Green Industry Link Directory

Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping | Stump Grinding and Stump Removal Brisbane

Brisbane Tree Care, Consultations, Developer, Tree and Arborist Reports

Forum Sponsors

jdvm

Wow, this site is fantastic. What an incredible resource. Thanks so much for taking the time to help me out. I think it's safe to say that we will be having a taller hedge.

John

blair duncanson

With reference to density of hedge you may want to look up the art of, 'hedge laying'.?

dennis_grower

I have the opposite problem! I have planted about 30 japanese blueberry shrubs as a privacy screen. I live in the desert SW and was assured by a nursery that I trust that they would do well here. I amended the soil with a mild root stimulator and sulpher. After about two weeks the plants went into shock, shed dramatically and are slowly getting new growth. Is there anything I can do before the desert heat sets in????

Thanks!!!!

vitex42

Hello Dennis

Sulphur (although it has other uses) is a known biocide (i.e. it kills things)! I well remember when I mistook lime sulphur for phosphate and spread it on my lawn. I can guarantee it kills things - this is called Destructive Testing! Well, the grass eventually grew back and so, perhaps, will your blueberries.

If you're in the desert they will probably crave water, but not over-watering. Only water when you stick your finger in the ground and it's dry.

Well-composted bark mulch (blackish in colour and smells like mushrooms) or straight compost are both fantastic for trees - help to even out water content in the soil and promote root growth. Give it a whirl.