Brazilian pepper tree diseased?

maxinegal

Hi have a Brazilian pepper tree was doing amazingly well in our backyard lawn It is our only shade tree so we highly value it. We recently had landscaping done which was completed last november. About that time our landscaper gave it a hard pruning since it was growing so vigorously and its canopy was very thick. He pruned about 3 major branches off from the main trunk of the tree in addition to some other smaller branches or suckers. The tree lost a lot of leaves over the fall and winter, which the tree does tend to lose some leaves throughout the year (evergreen otherwise), but then it never fully recovered the leaves this spring. It should have been growly vigorously by now with plenty of new shoots and branches. Over the winter and early spring it was oozing so much sap that it was dripping down from the branches. It seemed to get progressively worse, until now with the weather warming, it has appeared to dry up. I thought it was from the rain. But what concerns me most is I'm seeing dry dead leafless looking branches (and some w/dead brown leaves still attached) toward the top ends of the tree. It seems to be getting worse. The landscaper had removed the grass previously around it and replaced it with DG(decomposed granite) with the tree's own in-ground drip irrigation. It seems to be getting plenty of water because usually when I tried giving it more, the leaves began to yellow, which is what it does when it gets too much water. Did the tree contract some sort of bacterial canker or some other bug after pruning in the fall? Or is in shock from the change in irrigation?- water now only immediately around the base of the tree. How to treat it? I need answers quick!

Brent Ferris

pics would help. Depending on how the landscaping was done, many of the feeder roots may have been damaged. SOme details about the landscaping and pics before and after would be helpful. And generally you need to water out from the tree, not just the base. After all, roots spread out from the tree, and it is the roots that take in the water from the soil, not the base of the tree.

TreeSpecialist

You would be wise to cut it down right away.

"This shrub/tree is one of the most aggressive and wide-spread of the invasive non-indigenous exotic pest plants in the State of Florida. There are over 700,000 acres in Florida infested with Brazilian pepper tree. Brazilian pepper tree produces a dense canopy that shades out all other plants and provides a very poor habitat for native species. This species invades aquatic as well as terrestrial habitats, greatly reducing the quality of native biotic communities in the state."

Go to: Brazilian pepper-tree | Center for Aquatic and Invasive Plants

for more information.

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Brent Ferris

Since Brazil is one of the countries the pepper tree is native to, presumably there are biological controls keeping its population in check, that are not present in Florida. Your advice is very good for Florida, but maybe in Brazil it is not such a detested species. If it were as invasive in Brazil as in Florida, wouldn't it be likely Maxinegal would consider the tree a weed, vs valuing it highly?

Shade wise, it sounds like our variation of Norway Maple.

maxinegal

Thank you all for your replies. I have not been able to get photos posted up condensed yet, but soon will. Could this tree have the same bug that is affecting a lot of our local liquid amber? Our liquid ambers are dying off here. I was going to treat our liquid amber with Bayer Tree & Shrub Protect & Feed and thought about doing the same with our brazillian pepper. I was told I can do that without any harm to the tree by our landscaper. I hate to use any non-organic chemicals in my yard, as I do have edibles within the landscape. The tree is eeking a living with a few very slow growing shoots. I have put a water hose to the tree, to water under the entire canopy of the tree, not just the base (by base I mean about 3-4 feet out from the trunk of a 10-foot canopy tree) without remarkable results. Should I consider replacing the grass over the decomposed granite we laid around it? I am hopeful with seeing the slow new growth shoots, but branches seem to be dying off faster than it is growing. I do not consider this tree a pest, so I will not be pulling it out! In Florida, it seems that everything is an out of control pest, but not here is southern california where we don't get nearly as much rain. I live 1 hour west of Palm Springs desert. Any other thought greatly appreciated.

Garry Brockley

Its not that you personally think its a problem weed it's the government bodies that control pests that consider it a major problem.

in the usa
The public should be notified to avoid cultivating, transplanting, or promote proliferation of Brazilian pepper. Care should also be exercised to avoid seed spread through disposal of cut trees. Due to its invasive nature, it is placed by the Florida Department of Environmental Protection under section 62C-52.011 as a Class I -“Prohibited Aquatic Plant.” This law prohibits sale and or movement of this species.

kind of says it all really

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maxinegal

Here are the photos of the suffering brazillian pepper tree. It seems that there are more and more of these branches that seem to be appearing. What should I do? Increase the radius of irrigation, medicate, replace lawn, or all of the above?

Attached Thumbnails

   

Brent Ferris

Aside from this tree being a prohibited species in Florida, apparently because of its propensity to take over aquatic sites - which presumably means it can either tolerate stagnant water better, or absorbs oxygen better in oxygenated water - (which way might help answer maxinegal's queries),
your site appears to be a dry upland site, and the side of the tree having dead branches seems to be the side with the sand box.
It is hard to tell from your picture how compacted the soil is around the tree, and it is similarly hard to discern if the trunk flares out at the soil level or goes straight into the ground.
If the trunk goes straight in, this suggests the grade has been raised, and the tree is suffocating. IF the ground is compacted, the roots will have an equally hard time getting water and air all around the tree, except under the sandbox, where it will be even more difficult.
To have some idea of how the tree is growing, examine the branches. At the base of this year's shoot tip growth will be an annular ring. THe previous year's growth will be slightly larger in diameter, and a slightly different colour.
Try to find the annular rings for at least 5 years of growth, and measure the length of shoot tip growth per year. Compare this to the shoot tip growth on at least 3 sides of the tree, 1) where dying branches are, 2) where best growth seems to be and 3rd, poss 4th on other sides. If the shoot tip growth is fairly consistent for all 5 years, on all sides of the tree, the problem is unlikely to be the soil, or the access to water and/or oxygen. Try also to remember droughts, lengths, floods, frosts and other weather detrimental to a tree's health.
The California Pepper tree will apparently tolerate poor, dry soils - and plants that grow well on these difficult sites, often do poorly if extra water or extra nutrients are available.

maxinegal

Thank you for your insight as to our tree. I'm not clear on what you mean by annular rings. What would that look like on a new shoot? Also, in your last sentence, you mention California pepper. Did you mean Brazilian pepper? Was all the info you provided referring to a California pepper or Brazilian pepper?

Brent Ferris

When I looked up info on Brazilian Pepper tree, the California variety also showed up, but both have the ability to tolerate dry soil, Few trees can tolerate wet and dry, and species that can, are usually considered to be more invasive.

The annular ring is one or more ridges of tissue encircling the branch in one location, seldom more than 3/8 inch wide, usually less. The growth of the shoot tip for this year (so far) is commonly green (or non-woody) since the shoot grows first and develops its strength later. At the bottom of this green growth should be the annular ring, indicating the end of last year's growth, and the beginning of this year's.

newguy18

kill it kill it kill it!!!!!!!!!those things suck,of all the trees i've climbed those are one of the worst,even worse than mimosa's and ear trees.

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old schooler

Brent Ferris

Hey new guy what's so bad about Brazilian Pepper trees? Bugs? thorns? fruit? weak wood? growing habit? hyper-allergenic flowers? unusable wood? It is a tree. Somebody wants to enjoy a tree that will grow in their yard - on the other side of the continent from you......What's so bad about it?

I suppose I can afford to be nonchalant. Unless global warming heats up a whole lot, brazilian pepper tree will never grow here.

maxinegal

For those so against Brazilian pepper trees- you have to understand I live in the desert of southern California, not in a rain forest climate like Florida, so there is no comparison in the types of growth from here to there. We don't have the problems of this tree's droppings causing further uncontrolled growth in our or our neighbor's yard. Here, we are grateful for what does and can grow here with proper care. So post only constructive comments for me please. Again, I have no intention of getting rid our one and only mature shade tree in our backyard. Our children's play depends on it!

To Trees Have Needs- As far as I could see about the annular rings- I couldn't distinguish any rings, and the new growth is so small. I keep looking at this tree every day and it seems the deadening branches are growing at a faster rate than the new growth. It seems that the dry deadening branches have gone from just a couple on the right side, to 3 others peripheral sides gradually. The anterior side of the tree isn't as affected. It could be getting more of the draining irrigation water as there is a downward grade. I think you may be onto something regarding it possibly being suffocated from the DG(decomposed granite) being very firmly packed over it. And the fact that it doesn't get the peripheral watering anymore. But the DG is by no means is impenetrable. Water drains through it very easily, like sand, if I run a hose over it. Should we then go back to replacing the grass after removing the DG? If roots were damaged during the compaction and general landscaping, do you think it will fully recover granted we replace the grass and provide the area under the canopy the irrigation it once had? My husband so far has scraped away some of the DG away from the base of the tree trunk about 2 feet out. Let me know if you want any further photos. Oh, and is there a way that an arborist could personally test the tree for any infestations so it can be treated appropriately in that aspect? Thanks again for your insight!

Brent Ferris

To Maxinegal


An arborist -- one familiar with Brazilian Pepper trees -- could inspect the tree for possible infestations - if you can find one that is objective, and make recommendations. The fact that you live in a desert like area, may make your search more difficult. Not many professionals like to drive a long way out of their normal territory.

You say the new growth is very minimal so far this year. THis means that the new growth in a given year (by this time of the year) is usually ?? say 1-2 feet?, and so far has only grown 1-2 inches?

This kind of drastic fall back in growth is typical of root degeneration (fungal attack, or loss of root system(removal of feeder roots), or simply inadequate water supply), or fungal attack in the stems -- most likely windborne, but possibly from infected tools.
While the Brazilian Pepper tree can tolerate dry sites, cutting back the top so drastically would be hard on it. You said it has an evergreen habit, which says to me that it stores extra water in its leaves. Cutting out major limbs removes a significant amount of foliage and water stores, and also reduces translocation of water within the tree.
You indicated that sap oozed most of the winter and early spring, and that suggests that the tree does not readily seal its vessels against water loss. It would follow that the wood vessels would contain insufficient water to sustain the canopy, and the top -- at least on the sides the landscaping was done-- is dying. I am sorry.

There is a common misconception that trees respond well to pruning, and even more to hard pruning.
For example, If you had a business that was doing really well, and I came and took 50% of the profits (or more) you would work really hard to build the business back up. ANd if in another 3 years, the business was flourishing, and I came and took another 50%, again you would work really hard to build the business back up. How long could you rebuild the business? I can always come every 3 years and take 50% until the business dies, then go find another.
Unfortunately, the same is true of trees. If you prune it hard, many people think that the tree responds well to pruning and needs more pruning to keep in under control.
In fact, the tree is trying to restore what was removed, and then move on with more growth. The root system will support more tree if some of the top is removed, and if conditions are right, the tree can replace what is cut.
But trees are a dynamic system, the tops support root growth, root growth enhances top growth. Cutting back the top means the roots need not grow as much - except that if a tree is not growing, it is dying.

It is a common misconception that trees need to be thinned every (x) years to remain healthy. It is essential for tree business, it is often crucial to maintain ground covers, it is absolutely necessary to ensure a steady stream of light to solar collectors or an unimpeded signal to satellite dishes, BUT if trees need thinning after x years, how have the forest trees survived all these centuries?


This is a guess, and ONLY a guess, because I am not familiar with Brazilian Pepper Trees.
In your case, the top was heavily cut, and the roots (that remained after landscaping) continued to provide water to the top (oozing sap) - but with no where to store the water. I would guess that the tree takes in water through the "winter" when the foliage is more on a subsistence level, and in the spring, the new growth takes in water that the roots provide AND from stored water in the trunks and existing foliage. With the trunks dry, and minimal foliage on the tree, new growth cannot continue, and existing limbs will die back until the tree reaches a state of equilibrium of water it can take in and growth it can sustain. Any suckering growth near the base of the tree, or on the stem should be encouraged because the tree as you knew it may not survive.

You say the tree is now being watered via an irrigation system. How much water does the tree get, and how often? It was watered peripherally before, how much and when did it get water before?
THe DG may be too compact or too thick. How much DG was added on top of the original soil? It may be acting like a mulch (which is normally good) or suffocating the underlying soil layer.
The simplest solution to find out how much water the roots get, is to dig down to the roots, 12-15 hours to one day after watering and see how far the water penetrated. If the roots are getting water ie the sand/soil is damp to the touch - insufficient water is not the problem.

However, many people think if they supply an inch of water per week to the tree --but spread it over 7 days, that is the same as providing an inch of water one day per week. It is not. THe roots need the opportunity to absorb the water they need, and then they need to breathe. If the water never reaches the roots because there is not enough to fill the spaces between the soil particles let alone penetrate to the roots, those roots will die. If the irrigation system only provides a little water every day, tree roots will grow into the zone where the water reaches. This is typically in the top 1-2 inches of soil. THis is the zone that experiences the greatest fluctuations of soil temperature and water loss. This is one of the biggest plusses of watering one time per week vs a little bit every day.

It is hard to answer all your questions in a way that will make sense to you. I hope I have addressed some of your concerns, and you can investigate further in a more knowledgeable fashion.

Brent Ferris

To Maxinegal

The photo does suggest the limbs on the sandbox side, and on the side of the raised bed are dying. And the limbs on the other sides are alive?

newguy18

Weak wood and growth habits,they are very tangled,hard to work with,rigging,forget it,the first one i ever worked in threw me out of it,literally.I was about 40' up,and i cut a 2 inch limb off that was in front of the top i was tied into,as soon as the limb was cut,that top bowed over and sent me falling,and once i hoit the ground i slide a good 20 feet and ran my head into a palm.now i refuse to tie in with a climb line and i either use just a lanyard or 3 point climbing to work in them.Count your blessings if they won't grow where you're at.We have alot of invasive weed trees down here,rubber trees,rain trees,ear trees,mimosa's,camphor trees,and a long list of others.i guess that list is probabley the reason i really don't like trees and perfer removals.

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treedawgg

Try removing the swings,and ladders!

maxinegal

I am happt to report that my brazillian pepper has recovered fully and doing well. I think it was in shock with the change in soil conditions(DG put around it. and perhaps with it's pruning. It's such a hardy tree! It seems to now have acclimated itself to the new conditions. It is full of leaves where none were. It is a good thing that I didnt prune away all the supposed dead branches because new leaves have sprouted and the tree looks just about the way it did before. I feel it is such a reliable hardy tree here as well asthetically beatiful that I'm going to plant another one. For those of you who keep commenting to get rid of it,dont waste your time. If you lived in the dessert like I do, with these poor soil conditions, you'd be elated about what can thrive too. I must add that I was so worried it wasn't going to make it, that I said a word of prayer for it. God answered my prayers!