Blackening bark of maple

kostnkost

Just recently I have noticed the bark of my maple tree starting to darken. The wood on the bark is starting to look like wood chips, but it is not falling off. There is also some white spots on the tree as well. I remember this happening to another maple in my backyard and the tree died the next year, so I want to see if I can prevent this from happening again.

The last picture you will notice a limb with few leaves on it, as well as some browning of the leaves. The rest of the tree looks great though which is kind of strange.

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Eric Frei

I would say it's a type of fungal infection, thriving in the cambium layer beneath the bark ... many cankers do this.

Hard for me to ID this and also little local knowledge, but I do know it's very difficult to overcome a fungal disease.

In most cases people will say ID the fungi then choose the action. Fact is if not all maples were affected and only that one then there may be a reason for it. You said another maple had died already, some infections do migrate via the soil and root systems. We had a bout of Phellinus noxius here which migrated via root systems, I worked in a yard where it killed all the chinese elms only over a period of 3 years. The dead stumps of previously removed chinese elms were left in the ground and not removed .... slowly the others in the yard died and some were 40' apart. All other trees were fine except for the chinese elms.

Could be 4822082 - Phytophthora basal canker, Phytophthora palmivora (Peronosporales: Peronosporaceae) @ Forestry Images

Diseases of Bark

But for sure it's a fungal pathogen.

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kostnkost

Funny that you mention the soil as I had another tree die on me some 5 years ago, as well as my neighbors tree. I do not believe they were maples though, and for the life of me can not remember what they were.

So basically I am screwed then if this does not go away. It pretty much attacked my other tree in a year, and it was gone just like that.

Eric Frei

Once the fungi has entered your tree it's almost impossible to do something about it in most cases. If it is Phytophthora then you have a fighting chance by injecting a phosphite (not phosphate) product like Aliette

In the soil you have a good chance of using an antagonistic fungi found in most mychorrizal treatments, use that regularly.

Read this thread, some interesting stuff there.

Trichoderma | wound dressing | wound painting | Biological controls

You really need to get an experienced expert on this, this is not a home-owners fix IMHO. You need some-one who knows what chemical, what dosage and application. I don't like using fungicides on soil because it can kill the good fungi as well as the bad, I would inject the tree to deal with the fungi already in there and treat the soil with mychorrizal treatments.

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Garry Brockley

I would say soil test are imperative from many parts of the surrounding area, this may pull up an area that has increased amounts of either deficiency or abundance of one thing or another and like the advice given above get a qualified person in to sort the problem out.

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Sean Freeman

The advice is good...get an experienced qualified Arborist to come out and assess the tree and take samples to determine the soil function and the ID of any pathogen....I would seriously advise you to get a firm quote on the prices before you have anyone step on your property, make sure the individual has the experience you need...knows the species, knows the potential pathogens....some info on past clients maybe...if they are experienced they should be only too willing to have other happy clients talk to you.

Garry Brockley

very good concise advice sean

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kostnkost

I guess my next question would be where to find a reputable Arborist? I am in the roofing business, and when someones asks me for a electrician, painter etc., I say to look in the Better Business Bureau. Would this be the same case?

Eric Frei

start with a google search like this ...

http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&rlz=1B3MOZA_enAU325AU325&q=consulting+arborist+new+york&btnG=Search&meta=&cts=1244456330447
Perhaps try your town or suburb, do a search like "consulting arborist your town" but replace "your town" with your real towns name.

Then send them the link to this thread so they have a read and get the basics down.

There's organisations like ISA or American Society of Consulting Arborists who have members you can try also.

Anyone local with the qualifications and experience should be able to have a good idea of what is going here from this thread, make sure they read it.

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kostnkost

Well I just got some bad news, which was expected, from my local arborist. He told me the tree is showing signs of verticillum wilt that effects Norway maples and is a slow dieing disease. There are no controls for this disease

He also stated that Norway maples are on the New York State eradication list as they are considered a weed tree. He recommended removal in the fall or winter.


Kind of a sad day for me as that tree was great shade for my deck, gazebo and shed. It was also pleasant to look at in the fall.

Any suggestions for a shady tree that is resistant to disease? I am DEFINITELY replacing this tree with another as that makes it 3 trees in less than 5 yrs now that have died in my backyard.

Garry Brockley

Because you have an infestation in your soil the following are all suseptable to verticulum wilt and should be avoided, are any of these trees the species you have lost previously?

Ash, Dogwood, Plum, Azalea, Elder, Redbud, Barberry, Japanese Elm, Rose
Boxwood, Korean Honeysuckle, Russian olive, Buckeye, Ohio Lilac, serviceberry, Catalpa Linden, Smoke tree, Cherry, other stone fruits Locust, black Spirea, Coffee tree, Kentucky Magnolia, Sumac, Cork tree, Maple, viburnum, Currant and gooseberry, Oak, pin and red (rare) Wigela.

Trees and shrubs resistant or not susceptable to verticulum are.

Apple, Hawthorn, Oak, white and bur Arborvitae, Hickory, Pear, Beech, Honeylocust, Pine, Birch, Hophornbeam, Poplar, Butternut, Juniper, Larch, spruce, Fir, Sycamore, Ginkgo, Mountain ash, Walnut, Hackberry, Mulberry, Willow.

I hope this helps

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kostnkost

I believe the other was a dogwood if memory serves me right. My neighbor also lost 2 trees, so I should probably tell him as well since it looks like it is spreading.

Is there anything you can do about the soil to get this infestation out? I have a few more dogwoods and another maple tree, and would hate to lose them as well.

Thanks for the list btw

Eric Frei

It's common to read stuff like the two below.

Verticillium Wilt of Trees and Shrubs

Verticillium Wilt


But read this, everything happens for a reason.

Sustainable Management of Soil-borne Plant Diseases

And there's research showing it can be controlled. The productive farming areas have a lot to lose with pathogens so research is done. The key is healthy soils with plenty of good fungi will provide a healthier crop.

Studies on the control of cotton Verticillium wilt by fungal antagonists. | Li XueLing, Li Yun, Zhang TianYu | Cotton Science | Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences (CAAS), Scientech Documentation and Information Centre
One of the largest problems in urban yards is your treatments end at the fence line, and tree roots ignore those boundaries.

You can do more of your own research with this link.

verticillium wilt control trichoderma - Google Search

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pawjordan

Try this guy
Legacy Consulting Arborist
845-853-6220
His name is Paul
ISA Certified Arborist
NJ Certifird Tree Expert
He works out of Clifton, NJ and Accord, NY
Good luck
Paul

kostnkost

I found one right in my own town! Thanks for the help though.

kostnkost

I'm wondering if a Rose of Sharon tree will survive if I plant it in its place? Better known as Hibiscus syriacus.

I have one growing wild in my backyard, and want to replant it before it gets too big. Right now it is about 9' tall.

kostnkost

I thought I would give an update to my bleak situation here.

This disease/fungus is worse than I thought. Not only is it hitting my maples, but now has spread to my huge oak in the back and my weeping cherry. I stand to lose 6-7 tress within the next year or so. Not only that, but I have noticed that I am not the only one with this problem. I went walking with the wife the other day, and I would say 60-70% of the maples I noticed within a 2 mile radius have this disease.

It seems the only trees/bushes that are not susceptible to this are my Rose of sharons, pine trees & my lone japanese maple(haven't seen anything on that one yet).

It is a shame that nothing can be done about this

stirmantrees

sorry for your problem.

thanks for following up
great. pine trees huh.