Advance Poinciana. Recently transplanted

sharyn · 29th November 2009, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by docangulo

Thanks a lot to everyone for your comments and support. I had no idea it was this bad. It seemed like an established business and I though they knew what they were doing.

I am meeting with them next week (5th or 7th of Nov), and with your advice in mind I would like to know his thought about this. Hopefully he will come clean and accept that what he's done is wrong.

I'll keep you posted, and if you think I should know something else before I meet them, please let me know.

I have just joined up and have been really interested in all the posts regarding this story and i feel disappointed that docangulo has not reported what happened at the meeting and the outcome. Does anyone else know - I hope he got ALL his money back

docangulo · 13th December 2009, 11:34 PM

Dear tree world community

Very grateful for all threads. For some reason I didn’t received any more e-mail updates letting me know of new posted threads. Last one I read was in November last year. Just recently, I received again a reply to thread e-mail which opened up to all the threads posted after that date. I did notice that Treedoc brought new energy to the topic, and reopened the interest of the community with his differing thoughts.

Before I continue, I will update you with what has happened.

I presented the Tree Farm business with all the facts you uncovered. His reply (as close as my memory allows me to recollect from this conversation that happened a year ago) was, he stating that he has been doing this job for 20 or 30+ years for councils, private customers, etc and hasn’t had any problems with his practice. He has an arborist level 5 on the farm. Also stated that is so sure the tree won’t have any problems that he was willing not to charge us for one year. If at the end of the year we were not happy with the tree, he would come and pick it up. In case we decided to keep it, he will give us a 5 years warranty.

After everything I read, my thoughts were very sure that I wanted the tree to be picked up and not pay a cent. I wasn’t aware of everything you mentioned and the tree farm didn’t explain any of those topics either, otherwise I would have preferred a smaller tree, keep its foliage and root system rather than sacrifice such vital parts for a bigger stump.

When I was presented with the stump, I thought that was common practice and was safe to go ahead with it. One of the main reasons that bothered me on the delivery day was the big hole they drilled for transport. I mentioned that on the initial thread and as a consequence, found out that everything else was wrong too.

My wife and kids are very sentimental and as soon as they found out about the options I was given, they wanted to keep it. She was more concerned about the future of the tree if we returned it, than what we will have to pay for it. She couldn’t bear the thought that the tree could die if it had to be moved again.

The year has gone and long before this time came my family had fall in love with the tree. Somehow I feel I should exert my rights as a customer and return it. If I knew all these facts previously, I wouldn’t have done this business.

The Tree (Lucas), seems to be doing well so far. Is trying to heal all those bruises and mistreatments it received. On the following pictures you can see the trunk and main branches the way they are now and you can compare them with the pictures at the beginning of the thread that were taken a year ago.

About 2 weeks ago a local arborist came along and did some work on it. He pruned some branches that were competing with main ones, and other branches that I think were not going to be good in the future, i.e new growths from the bottom aspect of the main stems. He told me couldn’t take more than 30% of foliage.

Pictures will tell you more than 1000 words... here they are:

The first 3 pictures shows that Poinciana seems to be doing well

The hole drilled for transportation

Badly bruised trunk, and the way it is healing

Distribution of new growths. Some of them seem to be good - on top and shooting upwards, others badly situated - underneath might be weak and competing with main ones. I suppose they might have to be pruned in a years time.

Injury showed in last years pictures. You can monitor the ? healing

The hole - view from other side

Couldn't upload any more pictures, but if you are interested in seeing more I can upload them in another post. If there is any particular area that you would like to see, I will take the picture and upload it soon.

I know that most of you will be disappointed about keeping it (Lucas). I am supposed to pay for the tree next week ( as soon as I receive the warranty documents ), so final decision hasn't been made as yet; but if I don't keep it, wife and kids might send me to the dog house.

Now I think that the option of letting me keep it for a year without paying for it was another selling technique.

I would really appreciate reading your thoughts again.
I also just read Heavy pruning prior to transplanting| transplanting stumps| Advanced Tree Transplant

This has been a huge learning experience. Thanks to all

docangulo · 13th December 2009, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ekka

Yes, cytokinins.

There's usually a cytokinin auxin balance.

Dear Ekka
I see I can't edit my posts. All I want to do is place the picture names in between brackets. The ones that are mixed with the text, so readers can see the picture directly without needing to open the attachments. How can I do this after the post has been uploaded?

Are cytokinins applicable for this case?

thank you

Eric Frei · 14th December 2009, 07:37 AM

I have fixed your pics.

Regarding hormone treatment there's not a lot you can do about that, however seaweed style products do tend to have them. You can try to ring around some agricultural stores like Elders etc and see if they have anything. Auxin is the hormone that is in the terminal buds, it supresses other parts from competing for apical dominance. When tree tops are cut off and auxin removed other parts "bolt". So if there was a commercially available foliage spray of auxin it would help.

The growth you have on that stump is epicormic, it will grow faster, longer and more abundant than the original tree. It will not look right and have poor taper ratio with drooping and breakage potential. Those cut stumps will rot.

Just recently I had to advise on a large poinciana that was topped, I should video the form of it compared to a normal one. Normal poincianas have more horizontal branches with character not long smooth whip sticks.

Here's a series of pictures of a lopped poinciana (not the same one I saw but another).

Your wife has made an emotional decision not a logical one. No doubt if foliage mass or growth rates were the measure of success then a lopped tree would be a winner, however from a structural and longivity point of view it's a loser, especially in that species. In almost all cases epicormic growth will out perform normal tree growth, but that is not a good thing.

Mention of pollarding above isn't entirely true and accurate. I have written a decent piece about pollarding'

Source:- Qualified tree pruning Brisbane

Quote:

Pollarding - a rare and precision pruning method

First understand what this practice is as there are numerous forms of bad pruning called pollarding, which is simply not the case, they are topping or lopping and covered later.

Also it's important you understand the species that it applies too, not all trees can take it. Generally the species are deciduous (drop leaves for winter) and because pollarding removes all growth it's good to have a species that atleast has become accustomed to being defoliated. These deciduous trees store energy for the spring burst of leaves and shoots so they are better able to recuperate from a 100% prune. Some of the suitable species are willow, lime, ash, field maple, holly, hornbeam, oak, plane and beech. See something familiar? You dont grow those up here! We're in a subtropical environment not temperate.

Pollarding is also commenced on young trees, it's not what you do to a mature tree. It's a common practice to commence pollarding at stem diameters of 75mm to 100mm.

Pollarding is the removal of all stems back to their point of origin, the pollard head. You do not cut off any collars or pollard heads, you cut just outside them. New stems grow from the pollard head. The trees have to have this repeated every year or two. The original reason for this pruning was to keep a regular supply of wood and fodder annually from the same trees and to also contain the size and form of trees. Correctly done to the right species doesn't seem to decrease the lifespan providing it commenced at an early age.

The pollard heads are very hard (woundwood) and also loaded with energy as a storage point just near the wound for defence and to supply new growth. Decay seldom advances much past the pollard head.

You'll see some attempts at this but I can honestly say the last time I saw a proper pollarded tree in real life was some 20 years ago in Adelaide, it was a London Plane tree. Some people try to practice this on their Crepe Myrtles but they dont have the technique right nor do they usually start it on a young specimen. My advice is keep clear of it and leave it to a professional

Sean Freeman · 14th December 2009, 08:22 AM

Hello again Docangulo,

Thanks for the pics they provide good information on the production of regrowth.

I recently added this post on one of the picture threads
Large tree transplants

That tree was a much bigger transplant to yours, and the pics show what is approx 6-7yrs regrowth.

I perfectly understand your wife and family's increasing attachment to the transplant you have at your place.

Virtually every working Arborist is taking advantage of the inherent reiliance of the tree species on which they are working whenever they make any sort of cut into its above or below ground parts. Each and every cut is an injury that the plant then has to manage...attempt to seal off and prevent the ingress of oxygen and slow or halt the spread of dysfunction.

These processes going on in the tree at the site of the injury and further away demand a commitment of stored energy resource (in the form of carbohydrates-sugars).

The skill of a qualified experienced Arborist is in helping inform the tree owner about the best way to improve health and structural integrity of their tree, they are also able to assess the "dose" of any treatment that might be being considered for the particular tree.

The plant can only manufacture sugars through its green parts (predominantly leaves, some tree species have large numbers of chloroplasts present in their stem and branches), growing new branches and leaves to replce those removed also places additional drain on the stored resources.

So your little tree is currently spending its banked resources like a mad thing....at the same time it is rushing to create new sugars asap.

Whilst all this is going on the constant never ceasing pressures of pests and pathogens demand attention....yes you guessed it from those (limitless?) supplies of stored carbohydrate resource.

What of the new leaf making new sugars? Well sadly for trees they are hard wired to allocate they resources according to a list of priorities which place defence at teh bottom of that list, new growth is first. (The reasons for this are pretty easy to understand, and certainly have served the trees well over the past tens of thousands of years...however everything in nature has limits.

I cannot see into the future I have no crystal ball...what I can say is that my experience of trees so massively damaged like this one has been that they do what they have to in order to survive, produce flushes of new growth rapidly, some of the new growth fails through dense competition for light some through the physical limitation of the vascular connection around the point of the injury.

The root system of trees severely damaged like yours rarely develop and re-establish root systems approaching what was present before the move, the demands for soil resources are as extreme if not greater than the demand for photosynthates.

These moved stumps are extremely susceptable to all of the environmental pressure that any plant has to deal with; moisture and temp variations, wood decay fungi, insect pests etc.

Trees are incredible survivors, and the gentic enheritance of some species has enabled them to persist in circumstances that defy predictive assessment-ficus mostly.

My personal feeling is that the company that sold you the stump move fall a very long way short of best practice. I agree that given the biological imperative for leaf growth the 12 month period is something of a furfy, it would have been better imo for you to have been informed of the predictable potential consequences of the techniques being employed to bring this tree to your property.

The vast majority of trees demonstrate a potential life span that makes our average 80yrs or so seem like the longevity of some manic short lived pet in comparison.

Even the best practice transplants represent a massive impact on the trees moved.

I really hope that against the odds your moved stump successfully re-establishes a functional root system and that you don't get extreme weather (dry or wet) in the interim. My advice is try not to remove any more of the regrowth for some time to come...your tree has to have that foliage if it is to stand any chance of sustaining the volume of wood tissues within that stem and whats left of the root system.

Eric Frei · 14th December 2009, 08:31 AM

From Sean's link see the form of the tree.

And from this thread:- Veronica's poinciana see the form of the properly pruned tree. Which do you think not only looks better but is stronger?

docangulo · 12th June 2010, 03:38 AM

Dear Tree World Community

After all these months enjoying the tree and its growth, keeping my optimism, hoping that the Poinciana will do well, again new concerns arise, the tree is suffering again.

We came back from some weeks away from home and on our return we found the tree oozing what I think is sap. In some places sap seems fresh, other places sap looks dry giving a dark colour to the cortex. In some places over the dry sap there seems to be some fungi formation as well.

A friend told me a borer could be the cause of this occurrence. I contacted a local arborist (friend of a friend) 2 weeks ago who told me was going to find out what is the best treatment for the tree, but hasn’t come back to me as yet. The tree keeps oozing on a daily basis and felt I couldn’t wait any longer; bought confidor, found some little holes on one of the lopped main branches. When trying to inject the tree trough one of these little holes, found it was hollow underneath the dead wood and a big nest of ants is living there.

This main branch comes from the main leader and the main leader is the one that is oozing the sap continuously, but the oozing sites are not close to where the ant nest is. (see this in picture 151)

Can this nest be the cause of this event, or is there another cause?

I tried to remove all the dead wood and expose the nest and applied some ant dust killer. I don’t know if I did more harm than good, but felt I had to do something about it.

Please, I need your guidance once more. I know you have been very clear about the fate of this Poinciana, but I want to look after its health as long as its possible, and I know you can help me.

Please, all your knowledge will be greatly appreciated.

Here are some photos of the main leader showing the massive loss of sap, showing dry and fresh sap.

the overall look of the poinciana

shows the situation of the main leader and how sap if dripping all the way to the ground.

a close up of the main leader. Notice the main leader bifurcates in 2 main branches. It oozing from the front branch, but the ant nest is in the other branch which is not oozing sap at all. Is this a systemic response?

the stump where I found the small holes and where I started injecting confidor.

shows how hollow it is

removing more dead wood and exposing the ant nest. You can see all the ants and larvae inside the nest.

how much dead wood can I remove? This is where I stopped removing it. Should I keep going?

pics 163 164 173 - a close up of the ants.

another stump which seems to be hollow as well, mid way up from the main leader. Here you can appreciate the ? fungi formation on top of the dry sap?

a view from the other side

TreeSpecialist · 12th June 2010, 05:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TreeSpecialist

docangulo;

When first viewed, this almost seemed to be a joke.

Please follow up with Ekka?or someone and get ALL of your money back.

There is nothing anyone can do to make this be a healthy tree.

People who mutilate trees like this and then charge unsuspecting homeowners for a rotten, pathetic specimen should be hung - from a tree - or at least put in jail.

Get a lawyer if necessary - but get your money back!

I stand by my original advice. Biologically alive doesn't necessarily translate into mechanically sustainable. This tree will soon fall apart as it must. There is nothing that can be done to stop it. Spending additional money on it would be a complete waste of time.

Do a google search for "compartmentalism of decay" if you want to know more about what is going on with the tree.

Go back to the original contractor and get your money back.

Eric Frei · 12th June 2010, 01:38 PM

Post 64 I showed you this picture .... and it's happening to your tree. All has been told and explained in the previous posts by many. The growth you are getting is "epicormic" which grows faster and more erratic (slender) than the typical tree growth. My opinion was get rid of it and now you are starting to experience why.

The ants are just making home as they do, fungi is degrading the wood and rotting the tree, the borers are doing their job and attacking dying/deadwood, the weeping is fungal infection.... such is the cycle, we have told you about this before.

Jeff Darby · 12th June 2010, 03:58 PM

I could chime in with my opinion aswell, however I would only be repeating whats already been said.

Having said that, thank you for coming back twelve months later and posting pictures. You appear to be a man of intelligence sit back and mull over once more what has been suggested to you, you could compare the epicormic regrowth to a man drowning, throwing his hand up for someone to see before he starts to drown.

treeshaveneeds · 12th June 2010, 05:15 PM

I agree with the last 3 posts - the borers, ants, fungus and weeping is all part of the natural progression.

Pick a younger tree next time, maybe take an arborist with you to select the tree. The investment is worthwhile. The arborist will be better able to advise you and your family about the choice.

Good luck, and thanks for sharing the pics and the update.

sueann · 14th June 2010, 10:05 PM

That is the saddest thing.

GREENEE · 19th November 2010, 04:24 PM

Oh My. This is one nasty buisness.

13th December 2009, 11:34 PM	#62
docangulo Sappling Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: AUSTRALIA NSW 2480 Posts: 6	Re: Advance Poinciana. Recently transplanted Dear tree world community Very grateful for all threads. For some reason I didn’t received any more e-mail updates letting me know of new posted threads. Last one I read was in November last year. Just recently, I received again a reply to thread e-mail which opened up to all the threads posted after that date. I did notice that Treedoc brought new energy to the topic, and reopened the interest of the community with his differing thoughts. Before I continue, I will update you with what has happened. I presented the Tree Farm business with all the facts you uncovered. His reply (as close as my memory allows me to recollect from this conversation that happened a year ago) was, he stating that he has been doing this job for 20 or 30+ years for councils, private customers, etc and hasn’t had any problems with his practice. He has an arborist level 5 on the farm. Also stated that is so sure the tree won’t have any problems that he was willing not to charge us for one year. If at the end of the year we were not happy with the tree, he would come and pick it up. In case we decided to keep it, he will give us a 5 years warranty. After everything I read, my thoughts were very sure that I wanted the tree to be picked up and not pay a cent. I wasn’t aware of everything you mentioned and the tree farm didn’t explain any of those topics either, otherwise I would have preferred a smaller tree, keep its foliage and root system rather than sacrifice such vital parts for a bigger stump. When I was presented with the stump, I thought that was common practice and was safe to go ahead with it. One of the main reasons that bothered me on the delivery day was the big hole they drilled for transport. I mentioned that on the initial thread and as a consequence, found out that everything else was wrong too. My wife and kids are very sentimental and as soon as they found out about the options I was given, they wanted to keep it. She was more concerned about the future of the tree if we returned it, than what we will have to pay for it. She couldn’t bear the thought that the tree could die if it had to be moved again. The year has gone and long before this time came my family had fall in love with the tree. Somehow I feel I should exert my rights as a customer and return it. If I knew all these facts previously, I wouldn’t have done this business. The Tree (Lucas), seems to be doing well so far. Is trying to heal all those bruises and mistreatments it received. On the following pictures you can see the trunk and main branches the way they are now and you can compare them with the pictures at the beginning of the thread that were taken a year ago. About 2 weeks ago a local arborist came along and did some work on it. He pruned some branches that were competing with main ones, and other branches that I think were not going to be good in the future, i.e new growths from the bottom aspect of the main stems. He told me couldn’t take more than 30% of foliage. Pictures will tell you more than 1000 words... here they are: The first 3 pictures shows that Poinciana seems to be doing well The hole drilled for transportation Badly bruised trunk, and the way it is healing Distribution of new growths. Some of them seem to be good - on top and shooting upwards, others badly situated - underneath might be weak and competing with main ones. I suppose they might have to be pruned in a years time. Injury showed in last years pictures. You can monitor the ? healing The hole - view from other side Couldn't upload any more pictures, but if you are interested in seeing more I can upload them in another post. If there is any particular area that you would like to see, I will take the picture and upload it soon. I know that most of you will be disappointed about keeping it (Lucas). I am supposed to pay for the tree next week ( as soon as I receive the warranty documents ), so final decision hasn't been made as yet; but if I don't keep it, wife and kids might send me to the dog house. Now I think that the option of letting me keep it for a year without paying for it was another selling technique. I would really appreciate reading your thoughts again. I also just read Heavy pruning prior to transplanting\| transplanting stumps\| Advanced Tree Transplant This has been a huge learning experience. Thanks to all Attached Thumbnails Last edited by Eric Frei; 14th December 2009 at 06:52 AM. Reason: embed pics

14th December 2009, 08:22 AM	#65
Sean Freeman Monument Status Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Townsville Nth Queensland & Gold Coast Sth Queensland Posts: 1,985	Re: Advance Poinciana. Recently transplanted Hello again Docangulo, Thanks for the pics they provide good information on the production of regrowth. I recently added this post on one of the picture threads Large tree transplants That tree was a much bigger transplant to yours, and the pics show what is approx 6-7yrs regrowth. I perfectly understand your wife and family's increasing attachment to the transplant you have at your place. Virtually every working Arborist is taking advantage of the inherent reiliance of the tree species on which they are working whenever they make any sort of cut into its above or below ground parts. Each and every cut is an injury that the plant then has to manage...attempt to seal off and prevent the ingress of oxygen and slow or halt the spread of dysfunction. These processes going on in the tree at the site of the injury and further away demand a commitment of stored energy resource (in the form of carbohydrates-sugars). The skill of a qualified experienced Arborist is in helping inform the tree owner about the best way to improve health and structural integrity of their tree, they are also able to assess the "dose" of any treatment that might be being considered for the particular tree. The plant can only manufacture sugars through its green parts (predominantly leaves, some tree species have large numbers of chloroplasts present in their stem and branches), growing new branches and leaves to replce those removed also places additional drain on the stored resources. So your little tree is currently spending its banked resources like a mad thing....at the same time it is rushing to create new sugars asap. Whilst all this is going on the constant never ceasing pressures of pests and pathogens demand attention....yes you guessed it from those (limitless?) supplies of stored carbohydrate resource. What of the new leaf making new sugars? Well sadly for trees they are hard wired to allocate they resources according to a list of priorities which place defence at teh bottom of that list, new growth is first. (The reasons for this are pretty easy to understand, and certainly have served the trees well over the past tens of thousands of years...however everything in nature has limits. I cannot see into the future I have no crystal ball...what I can say is that my experience of trees so massively damaged like this one has been that they do what they have to in order to survive, produce flushes of new growth rapidly, some of the new growth fails through dense competition for light some through the physical limitation of the vascular connection around the point of the injury. The root system of trees severely damaged like yours rarely develop and re-establish root systems approaching what was present before the move, the demands for soil resources are as extreme if not greater than the demand for photosynthates. These moved stumps are extremely susceptable to all of the environmental pressure that any plant has to deal with; moisture and temp variations, wood decay fungi, insect pests etc. Trees are incredible survivors, and the gentic enheritance of some species has enabled them to persist in circumstances that defy predictive assessment-ficus mostly. My personal feeling is that the company that sold you the stump move fall a very long way short of best practice. I agree that given the biological imperative for leaf growth the 12 month period is something of a furfy, it would have been better imo for you to have been informed of the predictable potential consequences of the techniques being employed to bring this tree to your property. The vast majority of trees demonstrate a potential life span that makes our average 80yrs or so seem like the longevity of some manic short lived pet in comparison. Even the best practice transplants represent a massive impact on the trees moved. I really hope that against the odds your moved stump successfully re-establishes a functional root system and that you don't get extreme weather (dry or wet) in the interim. My advice is try not to remove any more of the regrowth for some time to come...your tree has to have that foliage if it is to stand any chance of sustaining the volume of wood tissues within that stem and whats left of the root system.

14th December 2009, 08:31 AM	#66
Eric Frei Admin - Razor sharp and independent 2 X Diploma Level 5 qualified arborist Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 12,820	Re: Advance Poinciana. Recently transplanted From Sean's link see the form of the tree. And from this thread:- Veronica's poinciana see the form of the properly pruned tree. Which do you think not only looks better but is stronger? __________________ Protect your rights to work - Join Australian Tree Association My businesses:- Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping \| Stump Grinding Brisbane \| Brisbane - Gold Coast Consulting Arborist

12th June 2010, 03:38 AM	#67
docangulo Sappling Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: AUSTRALIA NSW 2480 Posts: 6	Re: Advance Poinciana. Recently transplanted Dear Tree World Community After all these months enjoying the tree and its growth, keeping my optimism, hoping that the Poinciana will do well, again new concerns arise, the tree is suffering again. We came back from some weeks away from home and on our return we found the tree oozing what I think is sap. In some places sap seems fresh, other places sap looks dry giving a dark colour to the cortex. In some places over the dry sap there seems to be some fungi formation as well. A friend told me a borer could be the cause of this occurrence. I contacted a local arborist (friend of a friend) 2 weeks ago who told me was going to find out what is the best treatment for the tree, but hasn’t come back to me as yet. The tree keeps oozing on a daily basis and felt I couldn’t wait any longer; bought confidor, found some little holes on one of the lopped main branches. When trying to inject the tree trough one of these little holes, found it was hollow underneath the dead wood and a big nest of ants is living there. This main branch comes from the main leader and the main leader is the one that is oozing the sap continuously, but the oozing sites are not close to where the ant nest is. (see this in picture 151) Can this nest be the cause of this event, or is there another cause? I tried to remove all the dead wood and expose the nest and applied some ant dust killer. I don’t know if I did more harm than good, but felt I had to do something about it. Please, I need your guidance once more. I know you have been very clear about the fate of this Poinciana, but I want to look after its health as long as its possible, and I know you can help me. Please, all your knowledge will be greatly appreciated. Here are some photos of the main leader showing the massive loss of sap, showing dry and fresh sap. the overall look of the poinciana shows the situation of the main leader and how sap if dripping all the way to the ground. a close up of the main leader. Notice the main leader bifurcates in 2 main branches. It oozing from the front branch, but the ant nest is in the other branch which is not oozing sap at all. Is this a systemic response? the stump where I found the small holes and where I started injecting confidor. shows how hollow it is removing more dead wood and exposing the ant nest. You can see all the ants and larvae inside the nest. how much dead wood can I remove? This is where I stopped removing it. Should I keep going? pics 163 164 173 - a close up of the ants. another stump which seems to be hollow as well, mid way up from the main leader. Here you can appreciate the ? fungi formation on top of the dry sap? a view from the other side Attached Thumbnails Last edited by Eric Frei; 12th June 2010 at 01:24 PM. Reason: embedded pics

12th June 2010, 01:38 PM	#69
Eric Frei Admin - Razor sharp and independent 2 X Diploma Level 5 qualified arborist Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 12,820	Re: Advance Poinciana. Recently transplanted Post 64 I showed you this picture .... and it's happening to your tree. All has been told and explained in the previous posts by many. The growth you are getting is "epicormic" which grows faster and more erratic (slender) than the typical tree growth. My opinion was get rid of it and now you are starting to experience why. The ants are just making home as they do, fungi is degrading the wood and rotting the tree, the borers are doing their job and attacking dying/deadwood, the weeping is fungal infection.... such is the cycle, we have told you about this before. __________________ Protect your rights to work - Join Australian Tree Association My businesses:- Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping \| Stump Grinding Brisbane \| Brisbane - Gold Coast Consulting Arborist

12th June 2010, 03:58 PM	#70
Jeff Darby Moderator - Previously known as JayD Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: TreeWorld, Sydney Australia Posts: 2,031	Re: Advance Poinciana. Recently transplanted I could chime in with my opinion aswell, however I would only be repeating whats already been said. Having said that, thank you for coming back twelve months later and posting pictures. You appear to be a man of intelligence sit back and mull over once more what has been suggested to you, you could compare the epicormic regrowth to a man drowning, throwing his hand up for someone to see before he starts to drown. __________________ Member: Australian Tree Association Join the Australian Tree Association...Have your voice heard ! Arboriculture, A life long study for some, a passing phase for others © Jeffrey J Darby 2011

12th June 2010, 05:15 PM	#71
treeshaveneeds Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,399	Re: Advance Poinciana. Recently transplanted I agree with the last 3 posts - the borers, ants, fungus and weeping is all part of the natural progression. Pick a younger tree next time, maybe take an arborist with you to select the tree. The investment is worthwhile. The arborist will be better able to advise you and your family about the choice. Good luck, and thanks for sharing the pics and the update.

14th June 2010, 10:05 PM	#72
sueann Former Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Hunter Valley Australia Posts: 599	Re: Advance Poinciana. Recently transplanted That is the saddest thing.

19th November 2010, 04:24 PM	#73
GREENEE Sappling Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Brisbane Posts: 24	Re: Advance Poinciana. Recently transplanted Oh My. This is one nasty buisness.

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