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Old 5th March 2007, 03:54 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default tomahawk stump grinder teeth

Bit more agressive cut than super tooth,cheaper.
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Old 5th March 2007, 12:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some
 
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How are they fitted, one side threaded the other not????

I want some, where can I buy and how much. I have 1/2" thick cutter wheel.
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Old 5th March 2007, 12:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a_lopa View Post
Bit more agressive cut than super tooth,cheaper.
I sharpen these buggers, and others. Pain in the arse. Who sharpens yours?
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Old 5th March 2007, 05:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
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We use the super teeth but have been thinking about changing to Tomahawk teeth,we were going to ask you, a-lopa, but you beat us to it by posting, we generally sweat of the old tips and braze on new ones..I think the tips are about $5.50 to your doorstep.
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Old 5th March 2007, 06:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Do they cut better? Looks interesting.

I use the supertooth on my Rayco 1672 but am open to change.
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Old 6th March 2007, 12:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Ill let you make your mind up on cutting better Dan,i think they cut ALOT better for longer. They are a little harder to sharpen but no big deal.

A set on you 72 would be interesting.

this was after lunch with a bit of edge gone,nearly 7hrs grinding today http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMjn0bd-QrE
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Old 6th March 2007, 12:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ekka View Post
How are they fitted, one side threaded the other not????

I want some, where can I buy and how much. I have 1/2" thick cutter wheel.
Marriotts,if you cant get them local let me know ill get you some get Brian to drop them off.
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Old 6th March 2007, 02:59 AM   #8 (permalink)
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What's the deal with them like do you have to buy pockets too? Looks like they've got a pocket thingo of some description.

They'd slaughter palm stumps

And cost?
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Old 6th March 2007, 03:19 AM   #9 (permalink)
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They have pockets but no adjusting just bolt up same as super tooth.The teeth are $18 each cant remember how much the pockets were.
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Old 6th March 2007, 04:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
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But once you got the pockets that's it eh?

What does everyone think of those Green Teeth, you know, circular and you just rotate them for a new edge?
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Old 19th March 2007, 07:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
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When I first heard of the round adjustable teeth I thought what a good idea,I mean all you have to do is rotate when blunt..this sounds real good but I heard and mind you it's just hear say,rumor,that they rotate back to the blunt section in use ???? have you heard this? or can anyone else elaborate further?
All The Best
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Old 19th March 2007, 10:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Ive heard there rubbish the "green teeth"

Ive been re-tipping the tomahawks its as easy as could be.
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Old 20th March 2007, 02:22 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Heres a few ive re-tipped,makes for very profitable grinding.
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Old 20th March 2007, 04:43 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Lopa are you having to rebuild any of the metal around the carbide insert before soldering the carbide insert into place?

I've still got a couple of dozen of the Rayco Superteeth left but those tomahawk teeth will be next on my list.
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Old 20th March 2007, 02:38 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Hi TreeCo,
Me if the tooth needed extensive build up I think it would be prudent to scrap the tooth,a fracture same again,soldering is a general term we use because we have a lot of training behind us,a bit like driveing you start of with two hands on the wheel and end up with one because it becomes a musle brain thing,with our soldering and being a lot of folk who don't really know how to do it but like all of us want to save money I think we need to be a little more specific,we use a flux coated silver solder (silver solder) as just plain solder would never stand up to the impact,then as the heating medium we use oxy/acet gas with about a size 12 tip...neutral flame..and pre heat the tooth after you place it in a vice tight enought so it wont fall out when hot,make sure you heat all the tooth so it expands reasonably uniform but bring the tip area to a braze temp you know when this because you will be able to easily tap of the old tip keep it all clean before during work do not touch the tooth when hot because will melt your hand just quick as a saw will cut it of,OUCH,when the tip is removed and the new tip put in place lightly run the braze rod along the meeting surface between the tip and tooth capilary action will pull the braze into the area to be brazed make sure you can see a thin line of the braze around the tip between the the tip and the tooth and above all DONT QUENCH ..eg(cool down fast) let them cool down slowly away from anything that could cool them down faster than normal eg in a breeze coming through your door this important because it could cause the tooth to become brittle. IF YOU HAVE ANY DOUBT ABOUT YOU ABILITY TO SUCESSFULLY UNDERTAKE THIS PROCEDURE PAY A PROFESSIONAL AS YOU COULD INJURE OR KILL SOME ONE OR YOURSELF..This is how I approach re-tiping..not trying to speak down to anybody I just felt we should be a little more specific above all use good judgement.
All The Best
JayD
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Old 20th March 2007, 08:30 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks for explaining JayD.
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Old 21st March 2007, 02:10 AM   #17 (permalink)
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It very easy to have the tip and tooth red hot when braising on,i use flux coated bronze.
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