How do you sharpen your chains?

brainfart · 12th August 2007, 05:05 AM

By hand, with a file, or do you use a machine? Which one is better, and why?

In my opinion, by hand with a round file gives them more bite, there's no danger of the teeth getting too hot, and the chains last longer.
But how do you do it?

pomme · 12th August 2007, 07:43 AM

by hand have a file system by a german company holds a round file and a flat file at the same time so sets the depth guages at the same time as you sharpen the chain

Eric Frei · 12th August 2007, 09:14 AM

On the saw touch up with file.

Also have a Oregon grinder I use on the bench.

Secret to not over heating and blackening those teeth is dress the wheel frequently to remove metal grindings embedded in the stone, take little at a time.

If ya chain is rocked out and chrome taken off the top of the tooth, I ditch them.

OsAGe85 · 12th August 2007, 12:38 PM

Hand file. I like it to be perfect, Im a little OCD.

Drouin Tree Service · 12th August 2007, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pomme

by hand have a file system by a german company holds a round file and a flat file at the same time so sets the depth guages at the same time as you sharpen the chain

Got a picture of that?

Jeff Darby · 12th August 2007, 07:34 PM

Hi,
We use an Oregon electric grinder,we take it every where we work,fast and efficient,but you dont grind hard you just touch up lightly,we go thru chains but the speed makes up for it,more often is better than a hard grind, Files on hand just in case!.

sharpend · 14th August 2007, 01:48 PM

Got no weight now,Me. But a combo of the two,everything has its place.For puttin' it into the dirt,and plain ol' wear round file works fine,unless full on chisle[square],sorry.But if you hit rock,sand,conc. ... machine is the way to go.Seems to me that with a long while of seeing diffrent abuse you will be able to tell (not always but alot of the time) what caused what. W/a machine everything is set:angle, amount off each tooth ,depth into the gullet.All things are set, hard to go wrong.Slight touch,clean wheel, good settings, things seen & felt. But what my Pop taught me,start w/ the basics, Nothing more basic than a, file-raker & round (or square,rarely used outside of prof. fallers)

TreeCo · 14th August 2007, 04:35 PM

Bench grinder and hand files.

mdvaden · 15th August 2007, 06:37 PM

Usually one hand filing to touch up the edge, but sending the chain to the saw shop most of the time for convenience.

Drouin Tree Service · 15th August 2007, 07:43 PM

File by hand.

TrevMcRev · 15th August 2007, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by a_lopa

File by hand.

Same here

Steve Tipton · 15th August 2007, 08:32 PM

File by hand. Only use the grinder if I hit a rock or nail etc and it needs to come back a ways.

Roller · 16th August 2007, 12:32 AM

Hand file, but I have so many chains that need sharpening I need to get a grinder.

pomme · 16th August 2007, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by a_lopa

Got a picture of that?

will upload a pic when i can the file holder is by a german company called pferd you might be able to find them on the net

Eric Frei · 16th August 2007, 09:01 PM

PFERD Chain Saw Files & Accessories - Chain Sharp Tool & Accessories

TreeCo · 17th August 2007, 04:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ekka

PFERD Chain Saw Files & Accessories - Chain Sharp Tool & Accessories

I've got three sizes of the pferd guides and they all seem to take too much off of the depth guide. I've been using them with the depth guide file removed most of the time and then when the guides need reducing putting the guide file back in.

The one that does the 3/8 mini on my MS200T is useless and can ruin a chain by taking the guides down way to far. The chain bites in and stops running.

I wish they could be modified to adjust the depth gauge setting because I really do like them.

pomme · 17th August 2007, 06:07 AM

thats them they are the mutts cannot recommend them highly enough. you can have a like new chain right down to the wear markers

Victor Lindsay · 17th August 2007, 11:03 AM

I use pferd round files with roller file guide. I'll use a depth gauge and a straight file for the depth.

Eric Frei · 17th August 2007, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TreeCo

I've got three sizes of the pferd guides and they all seem to take too much off of the depth guide. I've been using them with the depth guide file removed most of the time and then when the guides need reducing putting the guide file back in.

The one that does the 3/8 mini on my MS200T is useless and can ruin a chain by taking the guides down way to far. The chain bites in and stops running.

I wish they could be modified to adjust the depth gauge setting because I really do like them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pomme

thats them they are the mutts cannot recommend them highly enough. you can have a like new chain right down to the wear markers

OK, we got discrepancies.

I have never seen them before till now, the idea has merit.

Can the depth be changed?

Steve Tipton · 17th August 2007, 05:44 PM

I was given one by a dealer years ago,7/32 for .404 chain. It worked ok but was a bit hungry on the rakers also. There was no adjustment for depth, but I put some .010" shim under the flat file and that helped. It looks the same as the one pictured.

TreeCo · 17th August 2007, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quintrex

I was given one by a dealer years ago,7/32 for .404 chain. It worked ok but was a bit hungry on the rakers also. There was no adjustment for depth, but I put some .010" shim under the flat file and that helped. It looks the same as the one pictured.

Great tip! I will give the shims a try.

Good description as to "being hungry on the rakers".

I've got three sizes:

3/8 mini
.325
3/8-.404

They really do a great job and I will be trying out using shims tomorrow.

I don't believe these guides work on half and full skip chain due to how the depth guage depth is determined by the average height of the tooth you are filing and the height of the tooth in front of it.

TrevMcRev · 21st August 2007, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TreeCo

3/8-.404

Just to raise another filing topic.
Who uses what size file for a 3/8th chain.
I use 13/64th.

I dont believe a 7/32 can be right for both 3/8 AND .404.
They are 2 different sized chains.

Ive come across alot of treeguys and even saw shops that have never heard of a 13/64 file

Jeff Darby · 21st August 2007, 10:49 PM

Hey,

3/8 Low Profile.....5/32" (4mm)

3/8 Standard....13/64" to 7/32" (5.5mm)

0.404"....7/32" to 1/4" (5.5mm to 6mm)

information sorce,
Chainsaw Operators Manual
6th Edition pg..33.

Hope This Helps

JayD

Drouin Tree Service · 21st August 2007, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrevMcRev

Just to raise another filing topic.
Who uses what size file for a 3/8th chain.
I use 13/64th.

I dont believe a 7/32 can be right for both 3/8 AND .404.
They are 2 different sized chains.

Ive come across alot of treeguys and even saw shops that have never heard of a 13/64 file

sharpen .404 with 13/64 no problem,seems a sharpen with a 7/32 after 4 or so sharpens to clear the gullet out,Wheres old gypo logger when were talking this stuff he certainly knows alot about it!

Eric Frei · 22nd August 2007, 01:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayD

Hey,

3/8 Low Profile.....5/32" (4mm)

3/8 Standard....13/64" to 7/32" (5.5mm)

That's what I use, aint got no 404 chain.

I have those flat Stihl file guide things, gotta watch them coz they keep the file high and dont clear out the gullet properly so every now and then slip the file outta the guide and gut that fish!

allmarktree · 22nd August 2007, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TreeCo

The one that does the 3/8 mini on my MS200T is useless and can ruin a chain by taking the guides down way to far. The chain bites in and stops running.

.

Maybe you need to switch saws... Maybe a craftsman would have more power.

or electric?

TreeCo · 22nd August 2007, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by allmarktree

Maybe you need to switch saws... Maybe a craftsman would have more power.

or electric?

You Rascal!

I've got your Craftsman hangin'.

I believe I measured my depth guides once on the 3/8 mini after sharpening and got .031" and that is what it feels like.

OsAGe85 · 23rd August 2007, 06:06 AM

And dont have the jack to spend on a bench grinder

sharpend · 23rd August 2007, 01:58 PM

What/who is a "gypo logger" ?

TreeCo · 23rd August 2007, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sharpend

What/who is a "gypo logger" ?

A chainsaw and logging expert. He hasn't been on the forums much for a couple of years.

12th August 2007, 05:05 AM	#1
brainfart Sappling Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Europe Posts: 10	How do you sharpen your chains? By hand, with a file, or do you use a machine? Which one is better, and why? In my opinion, by hand with a round file gives them more bite, there's no danger of the teeth getting too hot, and the chains last longer. But how do you do it?

12th August 2007, 09:14 AM	#3
Eric Frei Admin - Razor sharp and independent 2 X Diploma Level 5 qualified arborist Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 12,820	On the saw touch up with file. Also have a Oregon grinder I use on the bench. Secret to not over heating and blackening those teeth is dress the wheel frequently to remove metal grindings embedded in the stone, take little at a time. If ya chain is rocked out and chrome taken off the top of the tooth, I ditch them. __________________ Protect your rights to work - Join Australian Tree Association My businesses:- Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping \| Stump Grinding Brisbane \| Brisbane - Gold Coast Consulting Arborist

12th August 2007, 12:38 PM	#4
OsAGe85 Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Littlerock Arkansas US Posts: 59	Hand file. I like it to be perfect, Im a little OCD. __________________ Gotta love the smell 2 stroke and wood chips. Be smart, be safe.

12th August 2007, 07:34 PM	#6
Jeff Darby Moderator - Previously known as JayD Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: TreeWorld, Sydney Australia Posts: 2,031	Hi, We use an Oregon electric grinder,we take it every where we work,fast and efficient,but you dont grind hard you just touch up lightly,we go thru chains but the speed makes up for it,more often is better than a hard grind, Files on hand just in case!. __________________ Member: Australian Tree Association Join the Australian Tree Association...Have your voice heard ! Arboriculture, A life long study for some, a passing phase for others © Jeffrey J Darby 2011

15th August 2007, 07:43 PM	#10
Drouin Tree Service Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Australia Posts: 1,697	File by hand. __________________ Drouin Tree Services \| Excavator Hire - Drouin and SE Gippsland \| Landclearing Melbourne

12th August 2007, 07:43 AM	#2
pomme Mature tree Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: england Posts: 251	by hand have a file system by a german company holds a round file and a flat file at the same time so sets the depth guages at the same time as you sharpen the chain

14th August 2007, 01:48 PM	#7
sharpend Sappling Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 24	Got no weight now,Me. But a combo of the two,everything has its place.For puttin' it into the dirt,and plain ol' wear round file works fine,unless full on chisle[square],sorry.But if you hit rock,sand,conc. ... machine is the way to go.Seems to me that with a long while of seeing diffrent abuse you will be able to tell (not always but alot of the time) what caused what. W/a machine everything is set:angle, amount off each tooth ,depth into the gullet.All things are set, hard to go wrong.Slight touch,clean wheel, good settings, things seen & felt. But what my Pop taught me,start w/ the basics, Nothing more basic than a, file-raker & round (or square,rarely used outside of prof. fallers)

14th August 2007, 04:35 PM	#8
TreeCo Mature tree Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Georgia, USA Posts: 307	Bench grinder and hand files.

15th August 2007, 06:37 PM	#9
mdvaden Former Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Oregon Posts: 397	Usually one hand filing to touch up the edge, but sending the chain to the saw shop most of the time for convenience.

15th August 2007, 08:32 PM	#12
Steve Tipton Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Sydney Posts: 823	File by hand. Only use the grinder if I hit a rock or nail etc and it needs to come back a ways.

16th August 2007, 12:32 AM	#13
Roller Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Suffolk UK Posts: 143	Hand file, but I have so many chains that need sharpening I need to get a grinder.

16th August 2007, 09:01 PM	#15
Eric Frei Admin - Razor sharp and independent 2 X Diploma Level 5 qualified arborist Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 12,820	PFERD Chain Saw Files & Accessories - Chain Sharp Tool & Accessories __________________ Protect your rights to work - Join Australian Tree Association My businesses:- Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping \| Stump Grinding Brisbane \| Brisbane - Gold Coast Consulting Arborist

17th August 2007, 06:07 AM	#17
pomme Mature tree Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: england Posts: 251	thats them they are the mutts cannot recommend them highly enough. you can have a like new chain right down to the wear markers

17th August 2007, 11:03 AM	#18
Victor Lindsay Mature tree Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Earth Posts: 421	I use pferd round files with roller file guide. I'll use a depth gauge and a straight file for the depth.

17th August 2007, 05:44 PM	#20
Steve Tipton Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Sydney Posts: 823	I was given one by a dealer years ago,7/32 for .404 chain. It worked ok but was a bit hungry on the rakers also. There was no adjustment for depth, but I put some .010" shim under the flat file and that helped. It looks the same as the one pictured.

21st August 2007, 10:49 PM	#23
Jeff Darby Moderator - Previously known as JayD Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: TreeWorld, Sydney Australia Posts: 2,031	File size By The Book Hey, 3/8 Low Profile.....5/32" (4mm) 3/8 Standard....13/64" to 7/32" (5.5mm) 0.404"....7/32" to 1/4" (5.5mm to 6mm) information sorce, Chainsaw Operators Manual 6th Edition pg..33. Hope This Helps JayD __________________ Member: Australian Tree Association Join the Australian Tree Association...Have your voice heard ! Arboriculture, A life long study for some, a passing phase for others © Jeffrey J Darby 2011

23rd August 2007, 06:06 AM	#28
OsAGe85 Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Littlerock Arkansas US Posts: 59	And dont have the jack to spend on a bench grinder __________________ Gotta love the smell 2 stroke and wood chips. Be smart, be safe.

23rd August 2007, 01:58 PM	#29
sharpend Sappling Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 24	What/who is a "gypo logger" ?

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