How do you sharpen your chains?

Willard Holmen

Sorry guys, I need to enlarge my downloads.
Just don't have the time right now ,gotta get back to work on a week long roadtrip. Will fix it later.
Willard.
---------------
Willard, I just fixed it for you

Willard Holmen

Thanks alot Ken ,looks good!
Willard.

JohN Dee

I sharpen my chains in a vice 100% of the time if there is one there. You can't get a better accurate sharpening then in them IMO.

If I don't have a vice handy, I DONT DO THE BLOODY AWKWARD SIT AND SQUAT OVER THE SAW.

I one hand it. Yup! I one hand my filing, the other one firmly holding the bar in place and the other pushing the file through at the correct angle. Many have tried scrutinizing me and giving me shit over my method, but I say piss off as the proof is in the pudding. Razor sharp chain every time. One thing I can't stand though, is people guessing depth guages, especially on a low powered saw... Use a frikken gauge!

__________________
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Bruce Hopf

JonH Dee, I have to agree with you about the depth guages. I seen a chain that a guy had sharpened with a file, angels where so screwed (not saying your are), never in my life have I seen such a mess.
The height on the depth guages. looked as if a Kangaroo, was on the move. They were up and down. Sad thing, that the cutters had half of them left.
By the time I could have gotten everything straightened up right, with my bench grinder there would have been too much taken off of everything. Told the guy to just pitch it.
Someone like yourself, can do a good job of hand filing, and some others, should never see a file. Bruce.

__________________
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2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
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stihlrockin200t

always by file. i use the roller file guide. the chain will last longer, get more sharpenings out of it, and the file wont heat up the the chain and take any temper out of it, thus the chain snapping and links cracking. learn from experience

Therrin

John, I had JUST read your post on here a couple minutes ago. Then, while looking over "steel tree service's" web site, (because I've got a gripe-thread going on them) I noticed this perfect example of the way you dont like to sharpen your chains. They were proud enough of it to post it up on their site!



Not only does it not look comfortable, but doesn't look very exacting either.

ken koala

eric, where in Qld is this system available?

Treemonkee

Hand sharpen is a must.7/32 file on a 3/8 gauge until your 3/4 into your tooth bein fully sharpened then change to a 3/16 file,this will give it more bite and hook with out filing the links out.at this stage also give the depth gauges a harder file on the stroke,it is needed as the tooth is geting smaller.this will cut just as good if not better than a new chain.throw the machine sharpeners away

Willard Holmen

3/16 file is too small ,use a 13/64" or 5mm file. I never had a problem filing into the links even filing the whole chain with a 7/32 file. Maybe your holding your file handle too low.
Oregon still recommends 10 degrees down on the file but it is basically a setting for frozen or extra dry hardwood with a chisel chain. Keep your file level at 0 degrees. Stihl only recommends 0 degrees even on their chisel [Super ] round filed chain.
A new chains depth gauges [rakers] should be progressively filed from .025 when new, down to .038 when filed to the witness marks. But to do this easily you should use the Carlton File O Plate.

Willard.

Treemonkee

Yes I agree and u make a good point but there is more than one way to skin a cat,stihl also states that the chain is perfect for cutting out of the box.I take one stroke off the rakers before any cutting,ya can't denie that it bites in even better faster cutting but still avoids chain skip or extra vibration.6 years as a tree feller and skidy,we could go thru 2 chains a day on 066 24 inch.20 tanks a day.this provided a lot of time to experiment with sharpening.I stick to my suggestion.that's the beauty of our work were all different with our saws.

Drouin Tree Service

My employees always use a 3/16 on 3/8 chain they get them pretty sharp.All the other files are there to use.

__________________

Drouin Tree Services | Excavator Hire - Drouin and SE Gippsland | Landclearing Melbourne

Willard Holmen

Are your guys free filing or are they filing with a file guide? You're not talking about 3/8 LoPro are you?
I can see using a 3/16 file when a regular sized 3/8 chain has less then half the cutters left, but trying to start a small file in a new chain's cutter which is ground for a much bigger file would be sloppy.
Man these guys must be getting lots of hook in those cutters. Very thin cutting edge that won't last worth crap. Big increase in kickback energy too.

Willard.

Treemonkee

There's 4 file sizes.smallest 5/32 - 3/16 - 7/32 - 13/64 biggest.I only used a 13/64 when we ran a 404 chain.7/32 is good for the 3/8 chisel tip but care is needed not to push down hard or up,keep it in the middle at the start to provide a good hook not to much but just enough.the 13/64 creates to large a hook creating to big a chip out of the log, this just slows the saw down.that's why the 13/64 is good for the bigger 404 chain.holding the file at 0 degrees is right, to avoid to sharp a point on the top of the tooth and avoid the links.I don't sharpen my links ever it was more for the sake of people learning to sharpen.manufactures specs are good guide lines but when ya find the art of sharpening it makes ya wonder if they have considered every possible different situation.u have very valid points tho.

Willard Holmen

7/32 is the biggest.
Here is the proper order with 1/4 being the biggest to use on .404.
5/32- 3/16 - 13/64 - 7/32 - 1/4"

Actually lowering the file handle 10 degrees makes less hook in the cutter's side plate.

Willard.

Treemonkee

Sorry my mistake on the order.i was thinking the 13/64 was the 1/4.so having that in mind were on the same track.sounds like you've got a nice cutting saw.hard to find out of the many that iv meet.

Willard Holmen

Another size file I use is a 5mm, its between 3/16 and 13/64. Just one more size to use on different chains.
I'm a bit fussy in my hand filing but I've been running a saw professionally since I was 16 yrs old as a faller. I have field tested for the manufacturers many different bars, chains, sprockets and saws since the late 1970s.
Have seen alot of changes in product over the years.

Willard.

Treemonkee

Yep there's a range out there.feel silly for ????ing the numbers up I've never been one for the txt book.but still can't find any that sharpens better.would love to meet them tho because that's how we become better.I found even a grounds man that's just started can still teach a climber something just from the different point of view.13/64 is a file that the shops over rarely stock.stay safe mate.iv been cutting for 15 years now and accident free.touch wood.

Keith Nixon

I use a grinder and set the grinder angle at 50 and vice angle
at 30 it was a tip from Willard that much improves my grind with
a 3/8 full chisel for the 066 magnum

Willard Holmen

Welcome to the site president.
I don't ever recall giving that advice, are you mistaken with someone else?
Reason is I have never owned or even used a chain grinder, only files.

Willard

Keith Nixon

got it wrong Willard, It was Bruce, that advised tilting grinder
head to 40 to 50 degrees to achieve thinner sharper cutter
and it sure works with full house 3/8 chain in big doulas fir

Itsposs

Did you find out where to get these in QLD, Stihl has some thing similer but ya got ta buy a saw to get as they arnt avalible as a spare yet (that was what I was told).