ART Cocoon Pulley

quercus · 22nd December 2007, 11:58 PM

I've used several slings and ropes to install it.
What works best?

Dyneema daisy chain: the sling in it's full length provides a breaking strenght of 22kN, but the serveral small loops in the sling do not. The stitchings of the loops is only certified to one-tenth of the total strenght of the sling. It's a good sling to install it though and you can easily adjust it by using the different loops. I used this one: Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd. - Nylon/Dynex Daisy Chains
Be sure to look at the film on the use of that sling. Click on technical specifications for use and then click on the link on how to install it without dying.

Prussik on a single loop: that works very good actually, but you have to keep in mind to use a rope with a very large tensile strenght to create such a loop.
Bee-line is very good for that. Technora and other new superfibers would be a very good choice.

I'll get you some pictures of different set-ups when I get the chance.Maybe tomorrow.

tree MDS · 8th February 2008, 09:28 AM

I saw that piece of crap in the sherril catalog, I did'nt have the patience for figuring out how or what its supposed to actually do- and still dont because I skipped most of this thread. But let me just say that perhaps the people making this crap do- $$ ! Of course my saddle is about 30 years old and doesnt even have leg straps, LOL, but its done alot of trees- its got all the essentials : ladder hook, micro-lanyard, corona hand saw, footlock cord, hand pruner pouch on scabbord stretched out for smokes-D rings. There I posted, happy ? just kidding

quercus · 8th February 2008, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D Mc

Yeah, I do believe that. I'm not an engineer so I could be all wet but my thinking is that the only way to increase strength rating in a pulley is to either increase mass or use a stronger material. Wear is just a side product of friction which is reduced when traveling over a larger area or a harder surface so the higher rated pulley would either have more surface area or a stronger/harder substance, therefore, would experience less wear given the same work load.

D Mc

I'm with you on this one, not for a 100% but for 95 at the least... When I buy something I never calculate so that it'll be "Just enough"... What I mean is... when buying rope that must hold 1000 pounds regularly, then I buy at least a double factor (2000 pound tensile strenght). I strongly believe that in our industry, we never ever must use our gear to the maximum of its abilities. Always go stronger so your not working on limits. Maybe it's just a state of mind but hell... Why take chances on it and ask yourself every 10 minutes "Will it hold???" And there's also the factor "manufacturing flaw..." like for instance on the axle or something... In climbing i prefer the ones with the extra bridge on it, like petzl's or art cocoon...

Savings on climbing gear, is putting a mortgage on life!!! If you don't pay the cost, the grim reaper will take it away....

quercus · 8th February 2008, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tree MDS

I saw that piece of crap in the sherril catalog, I did'nt have the patience for figuring out how or what its supposed to actually do- and still dont because I skipped most of this thread. But let me just say that perhaps the people making this crap do- $$ ! Of course my saddle is about 30 years old and doesnt even have leg straps, LOL, but its done alot of trees- its got all the essentials : ladder hook, micro-lanyard, corona hand saw, footlock cord, hand pruner pouch on scabbord stretched out for smokes-D rings. There I posted, happy ? just kidding

Easy on the "piece of crap thing". When used properly it is a great and safe tool. It may be so that slight changes on the design could have been better, but still, when used properly you'll learn to love it in time.

tree MDS · 10th February 2008, 08:31 AM

Quercus maybe you're right, truthfully I just felt like busting on that gadget, thats all. My climbing is probably best considered a mix of both old and newer styles. Sometimes it just seems like too much jingle jangle and not enough cut cut these days. When I prune big trees like the White and Red Oaks we get (wich isnt all that often because its too much like work sinse its just me climbing), with big spreads, I'll often just make a bun and move my tail out to the end of a limb with usually 3 6' poles. This seems to work sweet as I can walk over sprouts and limbs without poodling and work the ends, best bet for that fkr out at the end too. And once I'm done with the limb I'm on then I can easilly repel down to the end of the next limb and start with that end, and work inward. When finished with that tie in at the end, untie taught line and 2 overhands and remove tail, back to main tie in. Just me. I'm looking at page 19 of 2007 Sherrill cat, and no matter how much I smoke I still cant wrap my mind around that thing !

jtrouse · 10th March 2008, 01:13 AM

Heres my home made rope guide works better than the real thing since i cant get hold of an original rope - rope guide cam.

ekka we need a splcing section in the main part of the forum.

check it out and tell me what you all think

Ekka · 10th March 2008, 03:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtrouse

ekka we need a splcing section in the main part of the forum.

We have a ropes, knots and rigging section.

That's pretty much like Jim's set up, looks good.

22nd December 2007, 11:58 PM	#26 (permalink)
quercus Afterburner is shakin' Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: belgium Posts: 414	Re: ART Cocoon Pulley I've used several slings and ropes to install it. What works best? Dyneema daisy chain: the sling in it's full length provides a breaking strenght of 22kN, but the serveral small loops in the sling do not. The stitchings of the loops is only certified to one-tenth of the total strenght of the sling. It's a good sling to install it though and you can easily adjust it by using the different loops. I used this one: Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd. - Nylon/Dynex Daisy Chains Be sure to look at the film on the use of that sling. Click on technical specifications for use and then click on the link on how to install it without dying. Prussik on a single loop: that works very good actually, but you have to keep in mind to use a rope with a very large tensile strenght to create such a loop. Bee-line is very good for that. Technora and other new superfibers would be a very good choice. I'll get you some pictures of different set-ups when I get the chance.Maybe tomorrow.

8th February 2008, 09:28 AM	#27 (permalink)
tree MDS Break'n the ice Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Litchfield county CT Posts: 9	Re: ART Cocoon Pulley I saw that piece of crap in the sherril catalog, I did'nt have the patience for figuring out how or what its supposed to actually do- and still dont because I skipped most of this thread. But let me just say that perhaps the people making this crap do- $$ ! Of course my saddle is about 30 years old and doesnt even have leg straps, LOL, but its done alot of trees- its got all the essentials : ladder hook, micro-lanyard, corona hand saw, footlock cord, hand pruner pouch on scabbord stretched out for smokes-D rings. There I posted, happy ? just kidding

10th February 2008, 08:31 AM	#30 (permalink)
tree MDS Break'n the ice Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Litchfield county CT Posts: 9	Re: ART Cocoon Pulley Quercus maybe you're right, truthfully I just felt like busting on that gadget, thats all. My climbing is probably best considered a mix of both old and newer styles. Sometimes it just seems like too much jingle jangle and not enough cut cut these days. When I prune big trees like the White and Red Oaks we get (wich isnt all that often because its too much like work sinse its just me climbing), with big spreads, I'll often just make a bun and move my tail out to the end of a limb with usually 3 6' poles. This seems to work sweet as I can walk over sprouts and limbs without poodling and work the ends, best bet for that fkr out at the end too. And once I'm done with the limb I'm on then I can easilly repel down to the end of the next limb and start with that end, and work inward. When finished with that tie in at the end, untie taught line and 2 overhands and remove tail, back to main tie in. Just me. I'm looking at page 19 of 2007 Sherrill cat, and no matter how much I smoke I still cant wrap my mind around that thing !

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