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| | #51 (permalink) |
| The Tree World Bandit Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 1,270
| Kept the truck where it was, moved from tree to tree and re-tensioned each time. Worked alright, the trees were within a rough 20' circle of eachother. Rigged the speedline "above" a set of about 6-8 branches at a time, so that when I cut them they didn't shock load the zipline, just kinda rolled right on off. Clipped a second 7/16" rope to the pulled, i'd make the cut, it'd go zipping down the line. H.O. unclipped it, then i reeled it back in and went again. Sometimes did more than one at a time. Seemed to work smoothly once I managed to find the "rythmn" that I was looking for the first time. ![]() I'd set up the speedline for the next area, he'd roll the truck forward till it was taut, then I'd go from there. Seemed to work pretty easy. I thought it'd be a mess with all the extra rigging but it was really no big deal. Figured out a way to use a rack or figure 8, and another anchor strap as a method for cutting a heavy limb, and *lowering* it till its weight was taken up by the speedline so as not to shock-load it. Good stuff. In specific situations I'm gonna make speedlining a normal part of how I do things, because I see promise in it.
__________________ Ken Fessia I.T.S.A. Tree Service (661) 916-4703 |
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| | #53 (permalink) |
| Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Sydney
Posts: 931
| When you are speedlining dont forget the lower you get the more likely you are to hit what you are speedlining over,So don't overlook this, I know your probably onto this but I just had piont this out to people having their first attempt at this, We have used this technique and it saves time. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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| | #54 (permalink) |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Live Oak Florida home of the crapiest trees you will ever see.
Posts: 2,646
| Its probabley not practical but it might save time refueling saws or sending up more slings and rigging gear.Just a thought.
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| | #55 (permalink) | |
| Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 744
| Quote:
__________________ Climber with slow climbing speed, must make up with mighty chainsaw roar. Free Tree and Green Industry Link Directory Red : Green : Blue | |
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| | #56 (permalink) |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Live Oak Florida home of the crapiest trees you will ever see.
Posts: 2,646
| What the figure eight?Why wouldn't you ude it for descending if it wasn't shock loaded?
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| | #57 (permalink) |
| Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 744
| Because your climbing equipment and rigging equipment may be similar but arn't to be used for one anothers jobs. The only weight or shockloads that go on my climbing gear is my own personal weight. You wouldn't pull ya tree over with your climbing rope and cambium saver where you had the high tie, would you?
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| | #58 (permalink) |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Live Oak Florida home of the crapiest trees you will ever see.
Posts: 2,646
| Not my climb line but an eight is aluminum and sometimes steel.
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| | #59 (permalink) |
| The Tree World Bandit Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 1,270
| If you'll notice I said "figured out a way to use" them. Didn't actually need to *do* it though, the stuff I was workin with was small enough diameter that a method like that wasn't needed. But I tend to work new and unused rigging problems in my head while I'm working with stuff, so I just figured it out from lookin at it. Didn't actually do it. ![]() As far as shockloading my decenders. I have a twisted 8 and an atc that have been used for bodyweight only. The other assortment has all been shock loaded, but I'm *tempted* to think that my new steel rack could hold my body weight for a rappel. It's rated at 20,000lb, tested at 2Klb, and I've only actually lowered stuff up to about 400lbs on it. As long as it's inspected daily and such, what's the general opinion out there? Hypothetically of course (peers at some of you), if you had a 72kN rated NFPA cert'd steel locking biner that you use for rigging, and you needed it for personal gear use for whatever lame-ass reason, you could probably get away with using it without some catastrophic metal failure due to your bodyweight. Just that you wouldn't want to make a habit out of that right?
__________________ Ken Fessia I.T.S.A. Tree Service (661) 916-4703 |
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| | #60 (permalink) |
| Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,847
| Well, you are fortunate that you and only you know what all your gear has been through. I'm the same. But it's not like that for everyone or every work place. What happens in this job is we always deal with risk. And part of reducing that risk is to avoid gear failure. Good practices mean better safety. Sometimes other parts like gates of biners get damaged to.
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| | #61 (permalink) |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: ONTARIO, CANADA
Posts: 94
| I use a speedline when ever it is useful I just taught my new business partner on a large spruce attaching the speedline above a group of branches use a bunch of slings for knotless rigging and will do 4-10 branches(depending on size and minimal shock load) at the same time into 1 carabiner in a pully attatched to the speedline. I will get some of my pics together and try to figure out how to make them smaller.
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| | #62 (permalink) |
| The Tree World Bandit Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 1,270
| Treemonkey, open your pictures in normal Microsoft Paint... Click the "image" pull down menu, and click "stretch / skew" That'll let you size down your pictures. I usually do 30%/30% for most things. Keep the ratio the same though! Then just resave as a jpeg and you're done.
__________________ Ken Fessia I.T.S.A. Tree Service (661) 916-4703 |
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| | #63 (permalink) |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: ONTARIO, CANADA
Posts: 94
| Therrin thanks Here are some speedline pics. The top of the Oak leans over the power lines but at least 40 feet clearence. This is not me but my business partner.
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| | #64 (permalink) |
| The Tree World Bandit Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 1,270
| Nice pics Treemonkey! I'll have to get one of my groundies to take some pics next time I set one up. They're pretty convenient in some situations.
__________________ Ken Fessia I.T.S.A. Tree Service (661) 916-4703 |
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| | #65 (permalink) |
| Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,847
| Yeah, cool. They seem quite tall and thin for oaks though, I thought they were large spreading trees ... maybe those are forest thin ones? ![]()
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| | #66 (permalink) |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Live Oak Florida home of the crapiest trees you will ever see.
Posts: 2,646
| i don't know what trees are in his area but that tree grows like the sand live oaks we got down here.They usually have one main leader and grow more like a pine than an oak.
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| | #67 (permalink) |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: ONTARIO, CANADA
Posts: 94
| Ekka your right they do usually grow out more it was a dense bush before the house was built their. That was a red oak i think; the job was early july. In this area we also have white and black oaks. The poplars in the back yard we took down where 120ft (approx 45 meters) not a single branch until 90ft, 30 meters.
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