New England " The FLY " Kernmantle Splice

TrevMcRev

For general information i'd like to start a discussion on this rope and it's unique splice.

The rope, New England "The FLY" is rather unique in that it is the world's first splicable kernmantle contsruction rope.

Here is a link to the data sheet on it:
ARB_fly.pdf

For those who aren't aware, traditionally, ropes of kernmantle type construction are not splicable. Usually only 16 strand & 24 strand double braids are spliced.

You will see in the datasheet that New England recommend the product is spliced with the New England Heavy Duty Kernmantle Splice.

New England developed this rope, & it's splicing method some years back now, though it seems many are not aware of it's existence. Anyone not familiar with it may be alarmed to see the stitched down tail visible on the exterior.

Even some factory certified splicers in Australia don't know about it yet!
But this is commonplace in the US & Europe, so it's about time we caught up & got with the times.

Here is the link to the official New England Splicing Guide of this product:
New England Ropes - Splicing Guide

Heavy Duty Kernmantle Eye Splice Instructions

Before beginning splice, slide a piece of 1 x 5 clear shrink tube over the end of rope to be spliced.


Step 1) Measure in from the bitter end of the rope a distance of 12 inches and mark; this is mark A. Next form the desired size eye and mark; this is mark B. With the eye formed, measure down a distance of 1 and mark both sides of the rope, this will be marks C & D.


Step 2) Approximately 5 or 6 feet down the body of the rope tie a knot and attach rope to a fixed point.

Step 3) Remove all core yarns from mark B as shown in figure below by sliding the cover back on the core to create slack, then bend rope at mark B and carefully remove the core yarns. Once all the core yarns have been removed, remove all the slack from the cover and mark where the core exits the rope, this is mark 1. Be sure not to cross or twist any of the core yarns.

Note: Be careful not to catch any of the sleeve yarns while removing the core.


Step 4) Taper the end of the core a distance of 2 and attach to a splicing fid (it is very important that the taper be nice and smooth and that the tape be wrapped very tightly). To taper, fan the ends of the core out and cut at a 45-degree angle. Once the splicing fid is attached insert the core into mark A of the sleeve and exit at mark B, as shown below. Be sure not to cross or twist any of the core yarns.


Step 5) Next take the exposed core yarns and separate them in half (i.e. if there are 11 core yarns then separate them into a bunch of 6 and a bunch of 5). When you get the core yarns separated, take the end of the core that has the splicing fid still attached and run it through the center of the separated yarns, as shown below, then bring the separated yarns back together.


Step 6) Now that you have the splicing fid running through the center of the core yarns insert the fid back into mark A but move towards the bitter end of the sleeve. Pull the fid out at mark C, as shown below.


Step 7) Take the end of core with the splicing fid still attached and enter to rope at mark D and exit a minimum of 6 inches down the body of the rope, as shown below.


Step 8) Work with the core and the sleeve to get all the marks to align. Once all the marks are aligned mark the core where it exits the rope. Pull core out as far as you can and cut at mark. Taper the core yarns that are left a distance of 2, remember a nice smooth taper. To taper, fan the ends of the core out and cut at a 45-degree angle.


When all the core yarns have been tapered, smooth sleeve out to bury core yarns back into rope. Cut the exposed sleeve back to mark C with hot knife. Whip the throat of the splice for a distance of , use the appropriate labeling just under the whipped section. Slide shrink tube over the splice and us heat gun to secure shrink tube to rope.

Ok.........

So, what might seem odd is that bit of externally visible cover (kern) tail stitched down.

To the untrained eye, this could be mistaken for some kind of backyard, hand stitched grizzly splice.

But as you have seen above, there is some serious work going on with the core here. And after all, kermantle rope construction carries its strength in the core.

Now, if you have one of these splices, just take care that should the heatshrink deteriorate and come off, take care not to pull the line back through tight crotches. The tail could act like a barb, catching as you pull it through, weakening the stitching of the cover tail. Inspect regularly & replace heatshrink if necessary. If you damage the whipping/lock stitching

Don't be too alarmed by this. Remember that the strength is in the core of the splice itself, the stitching just keeps it tidy and secure when under no load.

WARNING! Do not try this splice with any other type of kernmantle rope!

Attached Thumbnails

           

   

Attached Files

ARB_fly.pdf (780.2 KB, 218 views)

FlashD

I was looking at some "Fly" the other day and noticed that it feels really mushy. Is it just me, or is this a really soft rope? Or, does it just need to be milked out?

emr

It is quite mushy until you milk it. Even after it milks, it is still fairly soft.... at least compared to Blaze, Poison Ivy, and Velosity. I am climbing on Fly right now and I am not sure I like it. The main thing that I hate is the splice. I dont know that it is any less bulky than a knot. It always seems to get jammed up with my knot or with my hands.

Eric Frei

Still better than a knot having that weird splice.

Lots of techno ropes and stuff these days, I must old school eh.

__________________

Cole

good post there trev, so true about who you listen to about splicing.....yale cordage division is where i seek my advice. currently got blue-tounge and some ivy and a short hank of velocity hot my ivy has traditional eye splice and the blue tounge, velocity came with tight eye splice, my flip lines yale xtc fire and technicolour both came with a tight splice, trev is there any other way to splice 8mm beeline apart from grizzly or the way you sell them, ive currently got a few of the ones you sell there great just wanted to know if there was another way....all my petzl lanyards are stiched.... doesnt look as clean as good old eye splice either...does anyone use lava or true blue or tree pro red man thats thick climbing line like 14mm....sorry mini thread hi-jak