life line rope?

Levi Parkin

I use all New England lines right now. Currently climbing on HI-Vee (Spliced) with HRC eye-to-eye. We rig with 1/2" and 5/8" polyester DB. Since the boss-man sells New England rope we get to try out a lot of prototype ropes and such, it's pretty nice. My lanyard is tachyon (spliced on both ends) with HRC and a petzl hitch tender. I'm pretty sure that my next climbing line is likely to be Tachyon. It's an amazing line and I'd recommend it to anyone.

newguy18

I've towed cars with rope that i 've spliced,i just perfer tying knots,it takes real skill to be able to consistantly tie knots.

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Willard Holmen

Your lanyard must be a 2 in 1 with snaps on each end and that beeline is your hip prusik. When I started climbing years ago I used that style of lanyard, didn't like it because of 2 hands to adjust length and the constant loosening the prusik when it jams up. I tried advancing the prusik with a micro pulley but that was a disaster when forgetting to reverse the micro pulley when using both snaps to hopscotch branches.
I now climb with 2 lanyards, one of each hip of my saddle. Both 5/8", one Yale wirecore, the other eye splice stable braid [ I accidently cut 20 ft off my rigging rope,20 ft piece had the splice eye so it made a perfect lanyard,snap girth hitched by splice eye,figure 8 on tail]. Each lanyard is one handed adjusted with a Petzl Macrograb attached to the saddle with a loc-tited twisted clevis. Climbing and rigging ropes with eyes on both ends
I still use lots of knots in my work, anchor hitch with slip on bean bag ring,running bowline in rigging, double fishermens knot , blakes hitch, fig. 8 on end of climb line [in rope bag]clove hitch,throwing knot,butt hitching with the marlin or half hitch, cow hitch ,timber hitch and my favorite the static removable false crotch.

newguy18

Nope its not a 2in 1,its just a 50' flipline i made out of some 3 strand rope,i like the way it handles,much better for me to use than the 2 steel core i gave away,one i made and the other was off the shelf from wesspur.Oh and the prusik is nice enough,4 wrap,not 6.Just spliced and eye on one end,threw a couple auto lockers on,the double acting rope snap is a joke imo.Don't ask how i get around limbs.

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Willard Holmen

Bill you must do alot of roaming around up in the tree with that 50' flipline. One of our top climbers in Manitoba worked like that, until he forgot to stop knot the tail with a figure 8. He used up all his line through the prusik and fell 50' bouncing off limbs on the way down, his fibreglass saw pole pierced his abdomen along with crushed vertebras, it took him years to recover.
I always use locking snaps. Years ago an ArborMaster instructor demonstrated an old school non-locking snap detaching off a saddle's D-ring. Without touching the gate with his fingers and just giving the snap a twist, he demonstrated over and over again the snap coming off the D-ring.

newguy18

likewise i've seen the double locking snaps trip themselves,just took a twig getting into the mechanism,i refuse snaps and only use carabiners now,only use snaps on my saw ropes.That 50' flipline comes in handy,espically for traversing,plus it comes in handy for large removals and a short climb line.I've spent the whole day just working out of the climbline and seldom need a lanyard until i remove the top and start blocking down,but the flipline is more help than hindrence.If you ever meet a guy by the name of treeseer ask him,he watched me climb all day just a climbline and lanyard and it was no hinderence to me.

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Willard Holmen

Good point about using a biner over the snap , your safer then me. Now when I think about it I can open my ball lock biners no problem with one hand. Thanks for the advice Bill. I learn things every day.

Martin

12 strand Maverick used to be the rope of choice for alot of guys up here, but when they stopped selling it I went with Tachyon. Handles really nice and at 5.8 lbs/100 feet and 6800 lb break strength thats a nice little combo.

Tom Forrest

i like 1/2" Yale XTC ...nice feel, easy to knot, generally a nice rope. when i get a hank, i get it spliced (yale certified splicer). the splice is handy but certainly doesn't exclude the need for knots and/or knowledge of knots.

(WLL)

you must mean splice, no?
imo knot tying is basic 101 stuff, and requires very little skill. it takes real skill to remove large hazardous trees over expensive property, on the consistent

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Therrin

I wouldnt mind towing with something I've spliced, but hanging my OWN life off of it is a different ball game. Towing doesnt compare to that.

I'd agree with WLL and say that before you even get NEAR a tree you should have your knot tying down perfect. But I think more skill goes into being able to splice several different kinds of rope.

newguy18

true true.

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jim1nz

I trust my splices because i have had several broken in a controlled environment. I think anyone who splices should have this done with every different kind of rope they splice. I also know how much knots decrease rope strength let alone the time wasted tying them. Each to their own.

Graeme

I've just bought my first life line rope and went for New England Safety Blue Hi Vee,

TrevMcRev

A good trusty line you picked there Graeme. I started out on that nearly 15 years ago, still have some cut up scraps lying around for tying things down with etc.

newguy18

Start off with 3 strand for splicing,simple,easy to learn,just take your time with it,i splice my own fliplines,but i also put nine tucks into the eye splice.

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kiwi_tree_steve

hey guys, ive been thinking of buying my second rope, and im looking for advice from all you guys out there on life line ropes.

i have been climbing on 1/2 " arbor master, with a 10mm armour plus prussick, VT with a micro pully, all ropes are tied off with fishermans i love my system, and have been on it around 18months but feel that an upgrade in rope may help improve my climbing.

i kinda like the poison ivy, but ive got an open mind, just want to get a good rope realy, any recommendations of combos to try would be real helpfull


steve

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"You have to feel and touch a tree" Shigo

TrevMcRev

Hi Steve,

I reckon try Tachyon or BlueMoon (aka Poison Ivy).

They are 11.5 & 11.7mm respectively.

You might find this a good step from your 13mm line.

Proper 11mm lines like Blaze or Velocity may feel a little thin to grab well with the hand. That said many climbers love 11mm for its lightweight & less bulk.

Your 10mm VT will still work OKish on the Bluemoon & Tachyon, 8mm would be better. Definately 8mm on the 11mm lines though.

Do you know anyone climbing on these that you can have a test climb on?

Just remember the golden rule of borrowed gear... You nick or cut it, you own it

Cole

200ft blue tounge
100ft poison HI-vee
lifelines with 8mm beeline VT and just brought ocean polyester ????
does anyone have any feedback on this friction cord.

2x 400 ft Yale 1mm Kernmaster

various diffrent splicing and terminations on rope but definetly no knots

(WLL)

welcome to TW Cole! do you have any pics of your terminations or maybe you could just explain a lil more in depth

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Cole

alot of my terminations are back spliced or a sewn termination, i have the tails of my pole straps peiced with a small karabiner which i clip onto the back of my treemotion to eliminate that annoying tail dragging behind me, i havent worked out how to attach photos yet

Tree Machine

Back before the glorious introduction of the new 11-11.5 mm ropes we have now, I'd special order 7/16" stable braid for climbing line. It's been a number of years since I've used that stuff, but boy I remember it being really exceptional as a climbing line.

Cole

yeah i started using blaze and poison-ivy and i liked the 11's so much i run 11mm ropes both tree climbing and industrial access work. i now run blue tounge with the ART rope guide and beeline VT prussik its golden after the rope is worn in a tad there beautiful to climb with i much prefer them over the thicker ropes avaliable