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Old 31st March 2007, 09:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some
 
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Default Friction hitches for climbing lines

Inspired from this thread Ekka, whats with the Blakes?

We now set out to go through a large variety of the various hitches, advantages and disadvantages, and your preferences etc.

Please post a pic of the hitch. Title the post the name of the hitch.
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Old 31st March 2007, 10:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some
 
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Default Blakes Hitch

Traditionally has 4 wraps as per the first picture, the piece that runs across arrowed is called "the bar". As you grip this knot your thumb can open or close the bar to either increase or decrease friction slightly. If it's slipping on you then tighten the bar.

Now I use a 5 wrap Blakes, slips less or less manipulation of the bar required. Some say you tuck the tail at the second wrap and some the third ... my experience shows it doesn't make much difference.

I like the Blakes as you can use same line as your climbing line although I like a different colour as it makes it easier to distinguish what to grab.

The Blakes only works one way. So if you get to the end of your climbing line, re-crotch the tail and want to use the Blakes upside down you are in trouble.

A blakes advances easily enough and is a nice large chunks knot to grab minimising finger burns on descents.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg blakesR10.jpg (6.9 KB, 323 views)
File Type: jpg blakes 5 wrap.JPG (72.6 KB, 379 views)
File Type: jpg blakes 5 wrap close up.JPG (77.0 KB, 286 views)
File Type: jpg blakes 5 wrap tail tuck.JPG (77.2 KB, 272 views)
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Old 31st March 2007, 10:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some
 
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Default Prussic

Generally you should use a diameter smaller than your climbing line.

The loop is usually tied together with a double fishermans but I have seen spliced ones.

I girth hitch it to the carabiner so it doesn't slide around.

You can have 4 or 6 wraps, try it out for yourself, but not at 100' please!

The advantage of this hitch is it's multi-directional, unlike the Blakes if you get to the end of you climbing line you can use the tail and keep on going ... works in either direction. Due to this fact, and also it will grip if you just let go I think it's relatively bulletproof and usually get the new guys climbing on it.

The disadvantage is it's a smaller hitch and I get finger burns, it can get too grippy and need dressing again.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg prussic.JPG (55.9 KB, 221 views)
File Type: jpg prussic 4 coils.JPG (81.7 KB, 182 views)
File Type: jpg prussic 6 coils.JPG (93.9 KB, 166 views)
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Old 1st April 2007, 06:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Vt - french prussic

I use a Vt for my lanyard tied directly to my D ring. I use this same hitch for all of my rope climbing. The small double swivel is tied into fisherman's knot which holds it against the D for taking up rope with one hand.
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File Type: jpg Vt Lanyard.jpg (109.7 KB, 357 views)
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Old 1st April 2007, 10:32 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I use a split tail with a 4 turn blakes. With an adjustable lanyard attached to my side D's, I can then re-crotch quite easily. The harness I use is a Petzl Navaho Full Boss.
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Old 1st April 2007, 01:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I got to go with TreeCo on this one. The only thing I like to do diffrent is have a micro pulley with it and have it on its own biner. The other end of the climbing line is also on a biner. Everything is ment for a speedy disconnect if need be.
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Old 1st April 2007, 01:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Could you Vt guys show a complete set up on a climbing line like you were ready to go up. And also a close up of the Vt itself.
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Old 1st April 2007, 01:59 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'll post some shots this arvo

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Old 1st April 2007, 02:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I can burn my fingers on any size prussic...

Hey guys, can we get some really good prussic/friction hitch links on this thread that people can check out? Have a look how to tie them then possibly have a play with the hitch on the ground or the shed.

Then we can discuss the characteristics, performance and query each other about them individually.

Any good links?

I only have this one

http://www.animatedknots.com/indexcl...matedknots.com
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Old 1st April 2007, 02:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Hi Guy's,
I was shown the prussic years ago, but found that it tends to bite all too easily and was not easy to loosen when you needed to. I then got taught various frictions and found the best for me is the blakes, as all you need to do is give it a little twist to loosen it. For my working lanyard, I have not long changed to an ISC rope grab after using a VT with a micro pulley to advance. Again, I find the grab alot more easy to use.
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Old 1st April 2007, 03:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I have tried most and use a mix of many.

Klemheist - footlocking
Distil/knut - lanyard
VT - climbing, the best i have found.


VT - Advantages

Smooth and controllable all around, especially with swinging descent's
Tends slack very well
Doesn't bind too bad

VT - Disadvantages

Twists rope below hitch
Wares/burns in one spot
I found it hard to learn to tie
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Old 1st April 2007, 09:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Default French prussik and VT

Like jim1nz I have tried many different friction hitches but now stick to my 6 wrap French prussik on which I pull down two of the wraps to produce a open kind of VT.
When first tied DSCF8360.JPG (Oh yeah please don't give me a hard time about the lack of proper stopper knot on the first few I was in a hurry to get the photos before work this morning!) Then when the two wraps are pulled down to form open braids DSCF8361.JPG and from the other side DSCF8362.JPG.

Occaisionally I'll tie a proper VT (with proper stopper )
DSCF8366.JPG
DSCF8367.JPG

And here's my lanyard a four wrap french prussik
DSCF8369.JPG

Jim the best site for knots I've ever found is here I presume it belongs to Treespyder http://www.mytreelessons.com/Pages/Knots.htm

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Old 1st April 2007, 09:55 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Here's some variations on the VT, again from Treespyder

VT%20variations.jpg

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Old 1st April 2007, 10:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
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No wire core lanyard?

Nice pics, thanks for that.
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Old 1st April 2007, 10:13 PM   #15 (permalink)
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No only use wire core on heavy td's, used to use mine all the time then had a long chat with Tom Greenwood at TCC's in Sydney and he sort of convinced me of the advantages of using rope lanyard for light work. My wire core has the same four wrap frenchy on it.

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Old 1st April 2007, 10:27 PM   #16 (permalink)
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You need to try one of the custom made wire ropes I have, you'd never know there was wire in there.
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