Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin  Tim;
It allows the top to drop off the spar faster decreasing the bending moment on the spar.
I use an open face on those most of the time.
For real accuracy on the ground I use gunning sticks to mark the corners of the notch. |
Kevin,
I think you misunderstood my first post re notches, I was refering to order of the cuts of the notch, I was taught Top cut 1st, Undercut 2nd, felling cut 3 rd.
What the guy did in Ekka's video was Undercut 1st, Top cut 2nd, felling cut 3rd.
Why did the guy do the undercut 1st?
I agree with you re angles of notches for different situations.
When felling at ground level, I almost always go for a 60 degree cut, as this allows for more control if the hinge holds long enough, I am normally felling decidous hardwood species which are not evenly balanced straight poles like spruce. Also, i am nearly always felling in tight areas with not much room for error.
I used to use 45 degree notches for felling until i noticed the hinges were breaking too early and the tree began to go whichever way it was weighted.
I'm having much more success the last few years with the 60 degree cut.
I do this by making the normal 45 degree top cut 1st then on the undercut I make the cut about 15 degrees to come up and meet where the top cut ended.
When climbing, it varies from extreme closed notches to wide open notches(yelling mouth).