NG,
if a fallen tree in lying partially embedded in the ground, trying to keep the kerf open by forcefully plunging the bar in and out of the cut only puts alot of pressure on the bar.
I tried something like what you were talking about yesterday to try to figure it out, and I came up with a pretty significant feedback.
Keep in mind that the section averages a diameter of 44 inches, and the saw's bar is only 25" long. You cut from one side, and then from the other. However, when you start agressively plunging the bar into the kerf, the nose of the 25" long bar (which doesn't extend all the way through the log) starts slamming into the wood that's still left on the other side of the kerf, or towards the bottom of it, and causes self-induced kickback.
Not only this, but as the log is partially embedded in the ground, forcefully stabbing in different directions in order to try to keep the kerf from closing up only makes you stab the tip out through into the ground and dull the chain.
I think it's a "method" you might have found through lack of finesse and patience, but in the end, it only puts excessive pressure on the bar, greatly increases kickback, and dulls the chain.
Wedging is really not difficult, and takes very little time. I keep the wedges and hammer sitting on the log about a foot from each cut. So I just reach over and slide a wedge in, tap it, keep cutting, then switch sides, cut a little, wedge, tap and keep going all the way from there. After that the round pops off just a little and doesn't stay wedged close to the bar.
I think wedging is a better, safer method. Albeit, it will take a couple more seconds and a little more thinking.
