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Originally Posted by Pro Nemus  I have to ask - what are the primary advantages of using a straight-blade handsaw? |
Many times to avoid peels or mini barbers, and to accurately direct the fell of wrist-diameter and down limbage. Many times, the Arborist may often choose to place a quick wedge cut, to better assure accurate directioning of the limb and predictability of seperation.
The straight blade allows you cut accurately the wedges. As well, your conventional or tapered hinge/backcut is also very precise. This is because you're sawing in straight lines.
The curved saw cuts a curved (convex) kerf. You get bypass where your cuts should meet, a less predictable hinge-wood scenario. Curved is for hogging through crosscuts, which is the primary use of a handsaw anyway, in my opinion.
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Originally Posted by OSHA OSHA reference, unacceptable practices The second cut is made and both cuts should meet exactly. If the two cuts (of the wedge) do not meet exactly, or bypass, the notch cannot perform its function. These small notches close up before the tree has fallen even half way to the ground. When this happens, stress is put on the hinge causing it to break prematurely, resulting in fiber pull, splitting of the butt or barber chairing. |
I cut and pasted that from OSHA's unacceptable practices, but is reflects the answer I would have given you. It refers to felling a tree, but directional felling of wrist-diameter material, aloft, follows the same basic felling principle. Your hinge and back cut have to be spot-on.
Also, if you can appreciate the benefits of a folding handsaw, they come only in straight-blade.
Also, straight-blade works better, overall, in carpentry, straight lines, y'know? Ever try to cut a dovetail or a tenon with a curved blade?
Sorry, that really went off-topic.