Re: New prussik technique... I find it difficult to see the benefit of trusting my life and safety in a tool that is so unforgiving of any miscalculation, oversight, adverse condition or random problem - regardless of how improbable it may be.
It sounds like all parties agree that the Lockjack should only be used by a climber who is experienced enough to not make mistakes. However, I do not believe that one exists.
IMHO, a friction hitch system which provides benefits similar to the Lockjack, but does not share it's tempermental nature, is far superior in a risk/reward-type comparison - regardless of how much experience one has. I think that it is foolhardy for an experienced climber to think that he is skilled enough to warrant exchanging so much in reliability for such a slight gain in performance. |