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quercus · 30th December 2007, 09:55 AM

I'd like to share a certain technique I've been using for about three years now, before I started using a VT. I've never ever seen it somewhere else and other climbers whom I've worked with haven't either...

Some guys who really like prussiks whom I've trained really like it so I'll post a few pro's and con's too...

Explanation in a few words...

The reason why I came up with this is because of the fact that starting climbers use the prussik because of it's fool-proof design and gripping quality's in a 2:1 climbing system.On the down-side it's a rather difficult knot to return after a limb walk on difficult limbs.Therefore I came up with this set-up to counter that a little bit. This technique has big pro's and also a serious contra but overall I liked it in use and IMO it's a good transition to go from a regular prussik to a self trailing hitch like a VT.

Pro's:
-when used, you have three separate choices going from normal use of the knot, to walking out on a limb mode, to maximum efficiency mode.
It's very good for guys who are using a prussik to walk out on difficult limbs where you need one hand for hangin on to the branch and the other for sliding the knot up.
Especially on the return to the trunk, the prussik is not very handy because it takes two hands to slide it up. That problem is gone now with a better efficiency then let's say a snap hook and pulley.
-makes the prussik self-trailing when needed without the use of non-certified gear
-easy to create a system where you have the same quality's of a Lock-jack twin,but safer for the beginning climber and with cheaper multi-use gear and without the expensive replacement parts of the lock jack.
-reliable and offers more speed on the ascent in a 2:1 system

Con's:
-you have to count in the return length of the prussik line when ascending. this could be shortened when the prussik line is shortened a bit.
-when you alter the mode in the tree,then in some cases you have to release everything from your harness.

A few pictures...

-first picture:the eye splice is now between the sheaves of the pulley. if you are tied in at the top and it's not likely that you will have to disconnect the eye splice from your biner this is a good choice. The knot can be used like a normal prussik, except now you have the benefit of a nice and tidy fit on the biner. It also keeps the pulley straight up when ascending.

-second picture: self trailing mode. by pulling the free end of the rope the prussik will advance automatically. By tying the knot closer to the pulley it's possible to make the efficiency better. This action (shortening of prussik line) would also reduce efficiency in the normal mode at the same time.

-third picture: same setup but added a knot releasing pulley at the same time. Combined with the sling the knot and the assembly is further away from you and there's enough climbing line to use both hands for ascending continuously. A pull on the daisy chain will release the knot for descending letting go of everything will result in full stop.This setup provides the same result as if you were using a lock-jack twin, but it's IMO far more reliable and therefore better in use when starting out. I've been using this technique a lot on free ascents in a 2:1 system, and then footlocking on the single line as there is more then enough space to do so. The efficiency is high in this particular type of use.

-the other pictures are close ups.