"The root barrier should be about 3' away from the house too, but not done with backhoe or trencher. Need a clean cut, some use water cutters but there are machines similar to a concrete cutter where a rotating blade cuts a clean slot" said Eric.
I think that if we were to dig that close to the tree and remove all the roots to place the root barrier I am afraid that a couple of things would take place.
First the amount of damage to the root system will devastate the tree so may as well remove it and be done with it.
Second I am afraid that disturbing that much soil on one side of the tree will leave it unbalanced without strong root support on that side and easier to tip over in a strong wind storm either falling in top of the house or pulling in the other direction away from mine and into the neighbors yard. So in my view it is not a very simple solution either way for the owner of the house or for the tree.
The final alternative (cross the fingers here). Find a buyer that likes trees as much as I do and do not think that the damage to the brick veneer is a big deal and they will sign up in the dotted line without problems and hand over the check. ($250K more or less but who is counting!).
The way properties are changing hands in this city it could be possible!
Who knows.
I will try to post a photo of the tree. The crack on the brick is too small to see in a photo. It kind of follows along the grout used to keep the bricks together so it can be easily fill-in with a similar color material and very few people would even notice it. (tricky eh!)
The tree is a Cedar Elm (Ulmus crassifolia)
COMMENTS from Google search:
Found growing beside Ashe Juniper ("cedar") in Hill Country, hence name; wood hard and heavy, knotty; often planted as shade tree; if you need a vertical tree this on is more tall than broad, each one has its own individual shape.
Thanks for all the free advise. It is nice that you guys are willing to provide this type of info and long distance consultation.
Thanks