Quote:
Originally Posted by kevlar  Off the top compenates for the removal of the base gasket,otherwise it may strike the top or will not release the exhaust charge quickley enough-which brings us to the bottom of the piston skirts that allow the intake charge to spill into the crankcase the shorter the skirt the quicker the charge -WHITHIN REASON! that is why I use 30 thou I know I could go more but... |
Ok, I am talking above my paygrade here...
You can adjust the squish clearance by sanding the base of the cylinder and dropping the cylinder closer to the top of the piston. This increases compression and power. Some of the guys will also adjust the port timing to compensate. You can also widen the exhaust port and polish the walls.
You can measure the squish using some lead solder into the spark plug hole. Usually you do not want to go less than .015" on a work saw. But you measure the solder once you have squished it by running the piston into it. Then you can adjust the cylinder from there.
On the piston skirt, you can cut the skirt on the intake side only. By cutting a good chunk out of that you will make the saw run better. Not sure why, but it works.
Of course you need to match the muffler to the worked over exhaust port and dual port the saw as well.
If anyone wants to talk to smarter people than me, send me an email.
Scott.