My thoughts on the lifting method if it had to be done...
Firstly ensure the boom tip is directly over top of load.
When setting up branch crane lifts if its not necessary to tip tie and lift then dont do it. Most cranes have two chains off the main hoist hook which can be used to cradle the branch. Make sure to set the cradle evenly buy taking raps on the branch then securing the hook normally.
Always snig the hooks on the opposite side of the cradle/load so the chain is never on the open side of the hook.
Vertical branches that are able to be tip tied are secured high so the piece is unable to flip which will undoubtedly cause the climber serious injury's. Attach two chains to the piece, one either side of one another thus spreading load on the piece and on both chains. Step cuts are the preferred cut. Once the piece is secured and the climber is in position, the climber signals to the dog-man to take the weight of the piece so the cuts are able to be made with out the saw becoming jammed.
ALWAYS make sure the hoist line is vertical or slightly away from where you are positioned so the piece being lifted is unable to swing or if it does its a small amount and away from the climber.
If a piece is stuck DONT let the crane driver try and slew and create an angle where the piece will swing once free, think ahead so this does not happen...
NOTE: With these posts i am not even scratching the surface of what a climber needs to know when dealing with cranes in tree work.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!PROFESSIONAL FORMAL TRAINING IS REQUIRED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If anyone wants professional training in New Zealand just ask me and i can organise things with the best arboricultural training institute in NZ, the Waikato Institute of Technology. A level 6 specialist crane and helicopter course is available.
