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pcarborist · 28th November 2007, 05:43 PM

Cacau, I would "rough-up" the sides of the hole dug with the treespade especially if you have clay-textured soils due to soil glazing. The other thing you want to do is compact the soil very well around the rootball to force all the air pockets out. A combination of handwatering and compaction works well. Make sure when you water the newly planted tree at the rootball/new soil interface. Studies show that roots dug up with a tree spade can take up water like a sodastraw, that is they don't completely suberize. A 40" tree spade should be fine. The rule of thumb is 10" rootball width to every 1" basal diameter, so you could actually go down some what if you wanted to.
k

28th November 2007, 05:43 PM	#2 (permalink)
pcarborist Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: PC Posts: 58	Re: Practices With Tree Spade Cacau, I would "rough-up" the sides of the hole dug with the treespade especially if you have clay-textured soils due to soil glazing. The other thing you want to do is compact the soil very well around the rootball to force all the air pockets out. A combination of handwatering and compaction works well. Make sure when you water the newly planted tree at the rootball/new soil interface. Studies show that roots dug up with a tree spade can take up water like a sodastraw, that is they don't completely suberize. A 40" tree spade should be fine. The rule of thumb is 10" rootball width to every 1" basal diameter, so you could actually go down some what if you wanted to. k