Friction control and standing end;
Note the hook, or horn, or cleat, or whatever it may be called. This is where you add friction. The draping over of the rope, and the rope's weight allow you hands-free, with a light creep (at my weight and 11 mm line),
but it is not locked off.
below is a solid soft-lock, without actually being locked off.
To be locked off, the rope needs to be held captive, meaning whether you're upside down, rightside up, hands on or off the rope, you stay stationary on the rope.
Soft lock, you are stationary, but by pulling up the standing end (pushing the rope
into the device) you can adjust yourself down.
Hard lock, you are stationary, no adjustment, you are locked into that altitude.
